Illuminating Breakers

Is it possible to remove the cover over the light? If so, you can at least see what sort of light it is. LED, Neon, incandescent. That might give you a clue to what you need to do.

I just had a look at the data sheet PDF, it says optional light, it most likely doesn't have a light fitted.

I'd guess they have a neon bulb for lighting if they don't light on 18 volts.  I suspect the primary use of these is for 115VAC, so they're designed to light on that voltage.

Just read my post again, I added to it.

However, the Mouser page says: Illuminated: Yes

The part number they're selling is: W51-A121B1-5

The B in the number indicates illuminated.

Dave, they can't be taken apart.  I assume there is a led or some other similar type of lighting device inside.

Hmmm... wonder what would happen if I connected third lug to AC 120V ground?  This would be academic curiosity since I am not going to run AC 120V ground into a low voltage breaker box.

I was just poking about and saw some similar breakers from other companies state the lighting voltage - 120V for singe pole and 240V for double pole.

Mike

Hi Mike,as I said earlier, I would assume it do not have a light fitted, as the data sheet says "optional". When it says optional, you can take it as read that if you did not specifically ask for a lighted one, you got a non illuminated model.

Are you not reading what I posted?   They have a specific part number listed, and that part number is the illuminated part.  You need to look at the data sheet a little more carefully if you're going to post advice.

I have to agree with John the Part number does say illuminated with a red semi transparent switch. It also says they are 120 VAC rated which tells me they are neon type. I have a bunch of switches that I bought cheap from China that say Led illuminated but they are in fact neon. If they are wired like mine they will have a very small wire coming off 2 of the 3 lugs going inside the breaker. Two of the lugs supply the breaker and the other lug is hooked to the other power wire which supplies the neon bulb with the voltage needed to light. No way to light them in your application that I can see. Add a LED circuit next to them and mount the LED on your panal.

Ron

Hi John,

you are correct, but for some reason your post didn't appear until now on my screen.

It appear that in practicality, they're not illuminated, since I'm pretty sure they probably use a neon bulb anyway.

LEDs added to the panel it is!  Thanks!  Can I just look for a 20Vish LED?  Will they work OK on AC?  Hmm.... i guess they would.

Mike

You need a diode to protect the LED for AC.  If you buy some of the "packaged" ones like the Evan's Designs ones, some of those have a diode.

You can do this yourself with an LED, a 1K resistor, and a diode.  25 cents worth of parts and you're set.

IT does say illuminated , it also says it's rated for 125 VAC that means it's not going to light on 20 volts ... No way ...no how.


Simple solution is to get some green LED's from Evans . Wire the hot lead to the load side of the breaker and the Negative to common if the breaker trips the LED goes out just like a pilot light . You can drill a hole and mount one above each breaker and use either double sided tape or something I've found that works wonders is the fuzzy part of Velcro.
I don't know what kind of stickem they use on that stuff but it holds like steel.

David

I think we already figured that out.

I'm so glad. I see a reference to 115 Volts 120Volts and a mention of an option but no one said anything about the fact that the light in the breaker is rated for 125 volts
But I'm so glad you and kreskin have it under control

If you had actually read the thread instead of just concentrating on taking potshots at me, you would have seen my post much earlier.  What part of that confused you?

I'd guess they have a neon bulb for lighting if they don't light on 18 volts.  I suspect the primary use of these is for 115VAC, so they're designed to light on that voltage.

I'm not confused in the least. I see you didn't quote my full post not only saying that his switch wouldn't work at 20 volts because it's rated at 125 VAC AND the fact that I offered a solution . No but you did feel compelled to make some kind of dig in my direction with "I think we already have that figured out" and THAT is the way I took it or you wouldn't have said anything at all.
So if you don't like potshots don't make them. My post was in an effort to help the original poster while yours was to satisfy yourself.
If you didn't like my comment in return to it Tuff.

David