India ink and alcohol weathering mix?

Paul,  70% alcohol I'd start a small batch with 10 drops of alcohol and add one drop of India Ink.  Test that and add ink until you get what you want.   John

I just used that technique a few days ago to weather a bunch of fence and the ratio I used was about a 1/4" of alcohol and a squirt of ink mixed in a clear glass so I could see what's going on. The advise I can give is don't make a lot at once because the alcohol evaporates and the more ink you use the darker the stain gets, start with just a squirt and see how it looks because you can always add more ink.

Paul

I usually start with a !0:1 ratio (alcohol to ink) also and go from there.  Better to start out too light than too dark.

I have around 10 bottles premade from 20-1 to 5-1. I just use the full bottles from the pharmacy and Mark the ratios on the bottle. Makes it easy whenever I am doing anything requiring a India ink wash 

Inks washes work well but I hessitae to use them. Rather than do a permanent weathering, I use black powdered charcoal or powdered black and rust color chalks applied with a woman's make up brush. If you don't like the result it just wipes away.

Does it matter if the isopropyl alcohol is 70 or 90% strength? I ask because a few model train sites say to use strongest solution.

Less alcohol = more water.  Using 91 is better, especially if you're staining wood. Its always easier to start with a few drops of ink, than trying to dilute too much ink, which takes a lot of alcohol. You can always put on multiple coats to darken.  A teaspoon or less of ink is all it takes for a quart of 91%.

Well, I thought 70% alcohol was 'safer' for a final wash.  The 91% I've found to attack some paints, especially if the paint was applied fairly recently...which in the artistry of weathering might be considered a 'good' thing.  The stronger solution is probably fine for unpainted wood. 

But, this is one of those 'TEHO' items...  Everyone's experience creates their preference. 

And, when all else fails, you can still buy the pre-made brews from Micro-Mark ('weathering' category).

Then there's this from another blog..." Lance Mindheim recommends 2 teaspoons India ink per 1 pint of alcohol.  I started there, but ended up adding more ink for road weathering purposes."...FWIW.

@Boilermaker1 posted:

Less alcohol = more water.  Using 91 is better, especially if you're staining wood. Its always easier to start with a few drops of ink, than trying to dilute too much ink, which takes a lot of alcohol. You can always put on multiple coats to darken.  A teaspoon or less of ink is all it takes for a quart of 91%.

I am with Boilermaker here. Thin is better. Less water also better. Let it dry then add more coats if you want it darker. If you go with a dark stain its harder to make it lighter.

I have switched from ink to Fiebing’s leather shoe die. Its even denser so even less is needed.

Pete

I've never used the India Ink method, but I don't do much weathering. I've made some wood bridges, and ties for loads. I use a mixture of Lamp Black and water. Lamp Black is a powder available at building supply houses. It is used to dye mortar. It does separate from the water, so it needs to be stirred frequently. I first used it in the 70's when I was helping a friend build his house. He used commercially made barn board as wall paneling. Since I was a mason, I knew about Lamp Black, and experimented with a mixture to stain exposed cut edges of the pre-stained boards. It was a good match. I have used it for staining rough cut wood to replicate weathered barn boards, and it has served me well. the mixture can be made lighter or darker depending the amount of dye to water ratio. I imagine alcohol would be beneficial in reducing surface tension, but I never tried adding it. I've included some photos of one of the bridges, and some wood crates I've made.

Just a warning. Don't Dullcote your model before using alcohol and ink, because the ink will react with the Dullcote and turn blotchy and white. Spraying it with more Dullcote usually will get rid of this, but then your weathering is sometimes dulled too.

I've used india ink diluted with alcohol on many structures. As well as, other diluted mediums. Do a little bit at a time as others have stated. However I don't cote with dullcote.

@rail posted:

I've never used the India Ink method, but I don't do much weathering. I've made some wood bridges, and ties for loads. I use a mixture of Lamp Black and water. Lamp Black is a powder available at building supply houses. It is used to dye mortar. It does separate from the water, so it needs to be stirred frequently. I first used it in the 70's when I was helping a friend build his house. He used commercially made barn board as wall paneling. Since I was a mason, I knew about Lamp Black, and experimented with a mixture to stain exposed cut edges of the pre-stained boards. It was a good match. I have used it for staining rough cut wood to replicate weathered barn boards, and it has served me well. the mixture can be made lighter or darker depending the amount of dye to water ratio. I imagine alcohol would be beneficial in reducing surface tension, but I never tried adding it. I've included some photos of one of the bridges, and some wood crates I've made.

nice effect!

Two quick hints for I/A weathering:

1) Dribble a thin solution along a drainage path (e.g., the valley of a roof; the drainage path of a road, etc). The solution will follow the correct path, creating a very realistic stain pattern. Use a very dilute mixture and make several passes with different volumes to avoid sharp lines.

2) Note that inks come in many colors. You are by no means limited to black.

Paul: - I am of the opposite opinion (yea there is always one of those!). I stick to India Ink and DI water. When I tried India Ink and alcohol I always found the mixture to dry too fast to be able to control the flow. I would end up with black streaks. With water one has to apply more coats (I use a really thin mix) but this way I get to control the final result.

If I was to go back to alcohol I would stick with 70% to give more working time before it dries.

Joe

@Dave Koehler posted:

nice effect!

Thank you. I neglected to mention that the Lamp Black and water application needs to be sealed with a flat finish, as it will rub of with handling. For new ties, a satin sealer adds the sheen of the creosote.