Innovative approach to building a modular benchwork system

The modules are designed to be interconnected in various configurations. The attached photos show how these modules bolt together using 1/4 inch hex bolts. When bolted together the entire assembly is very sturdy and stable. Note that the underside of the layout is very accessible for wiring since the table height is 48 inches.

 

A color code system is used to mark each piece so that assembly of all interconnected sections is foolproof.

 

 

Why are you using 1x4s bolted to the 2x4 legs?  Why not just bolt the top 2x4 to the 2x4 leg?  Seems like extra work to me.  I'm not trying to be negative just seems like an extra step that's all.

 

Rick

 

 

The construction method places the 2x4 top rail so that the 2x4 leg directly supports the rail (not the bolts themselves).  The bolts serve to secure in place the top 2x4 rail only. The bolts do not support any load. Otherwise the bolts would have a shear force applied to the bolt cross-section. Nails, screws and bolts do not have a very great shear strength.

Why such heavy lumber? I'd suggest 1x4 lumber, we build our modular club modules with that and they're rock solid.

 

I also think you sell 1/4" bolts short, I'm sure they're more than up to the task of supporting anything you're going to put on the table.

 

I have been able to hand select 2x4 lumber which is very straight and is less likely to warp over time when compared to 1x4s.

 

Glad you are making progress with your bench work Alan, I look forward to seeing some track on it.

 

Mike

 

Looks GREAT! Should support anything you put on it. BUT! What keeps everything from racking side to side other than the shear strength of the top bolts?

Excellent progress Allan.
I maybe confusing modular with transportable (mobile) benchwork. I will look forward to learning the amount of time it will take to setup and teardown the layout at a remote location. I realize one x factor for time is the size of the layout based on the number of modules required.

I see a lot of nuts and bolts to connect the modules together which can become labor intensive. I get it for durability. I see the need to carry additional tools (a cordless drill and at least two box wrenchs). Second box wrench as backup if the drill battery fails...

I don't understand the need to color key the ends of the boards.  If it's modular, it shouldn't matter which side or end is connected between two modules? Or, is the color used to help construction?

I used a combination of alpha/numeric sequences to indicate where parts should line up together on my current 6x8 layout. A1, A2, B1... It worked for me.

You are fortunate you have both the time, budget and lumber yard nearby to source straight lumber. I would welcome seeing variations in your design to accomodate varying degrees of "straight" lumber.

I look for used but not abused scrap lumber to keep a budget. My referenced layout uses in some places, 2x4's that were cut to those actual dimensions. They were donated to me when a 30's era bungalo style home was remodeled. I have no plans nor need to crawl on it.

I admire your design and efforts. I think its great. I look forward to seeing your progress and thanks for sharing!

Best,
CH

The one suggestion I will make is to countersink the bolts on the eventual front face of the layout. This way you could put a sheathing on to cover and/or add shelves for trains.

 

A 2 by 4 costs about the same as a 1 by 4 in #2 pine. Fine for a home layout with the added weight. 

 

It does not take to many modules to overload a trailer even with 1 by 4 construction for a show layout.

Even with a big van or truck to move this, the size and weight seems like overkill for a modular base. But to each his own.

 

Jack

This modular benchwork design is not compatible with modular layouts set up at shows since it is designed for an elevation of 48 inches. The benchwork is modular but NOT intended to be taken down and reassembled at shows, etc.  It is a semi-permanent layout that can be reconfigured by adding more modules as necessary.

Once the modules are bolted together the benchwork becomes extremely stable. In fact it could also be used as a support for scaffolding.

Nice neat clean work! A bit over engineered I think. The laminated legs are over kill IMHO. Your duel bolts should hold the layout fine.....or just add a short support block if you feel the need.

The double legs transfer the weight to the floor. Most likely used the bolts instead of deck screws to disassemble easier. Nothing wrong with a belt and suspenders.

 

Another thing that would add to lateral strength is the addition of shelving materials on the bottom stringers. The centipede effect of adding modules adds strength laterally as well as the table top materials.

This is nice work, do bad I did not see something like this last year when I made my tables, I winged it and no, it doesn't move. I used 2 x 4 and 4x8 plywood.

 

Brent

In this design, the 1x4's purely serve as a gusset plate allowing the 2x4's to be connected together quickly. Therefore, this piece really only needs to be about 7" for finished lumber. It doesn't need to go to the floor which would save a number of bolts and time. A 2x4 leg will hold a lot of weight especailly in this system where the legs will be relatively close together.

Peter

My guess ....I think in this standardized sectional layout the color keys allow for mass production of standardized components (cut, drill and key) that can be set aside and assembled later. The advantage of this kind of system, if the layout is ever moved into a new location, replacement sections can be easily fabricated connecting existing sections. 

 

Peter

This looks like a good system for a home layout that you want the "I have to be able to climb on it" strength.

 

I concur with GRJ that it appears to heavy for a traveling layout.

 

Nice idea for the module locking using the legs.

nothing wrong with "sturdy" in my book...

 

i'm interested in seeing the track plan/plans for the components...

 

howard

The layout construction method is NOT intended to be a traveling layout.  It is designed to be semi-permanent but still allows for expansion by bolting on additional units.

Techniques for attaching the "subroadbed"

 

I prefer to attach the "sub roadbed" with wood screws which are accessible from the underside.  This ensures that no fasteners are concealed in case I need to change/modify the track.

 

I will use 1x4 boards fastened with wood screws to form an "L" bracket. The subroadbed will then attach from underneath using these "L" brackets. I will use 1/4 inch composite board cut with a saber saw to the contours necessary for the subroadbed.  I use MTH RealTrax so that I do not need to ballast the track once attached.

 

 

 

 

This modular benchwork design is not compatible with modular layouts set up at shows since it is designed for an elevation of 48 inches. The benchwork is modular but NOT intended to be taken down and reassembled at shows, etc.  It is a semi-permanent home layout that can be reconfigured by adding more modules as necessary.