Installing a Super Chuffer II

Well, I don't focus on wattage as much as temperature.  I normally use my Hakko FX888D soldering station, usually set at 500F for PCB work.  IMO, if you're going to be doing much soldering on PCB's, you want a temperature controlled iron.  The Hakko is actually a 70 watt iron, so if you need the heat for a heavier job, it can deliver the goods.  However, the temperature control allows you to do fine work on PCB's without the danger of lifting traces.  Excessive heat is the enemy of any PCB.  I've seen some ugly PCB soldering jobs in my time, so I always recommend the proper tool for the job.

Thanks John, mine was pretty ugly. As I was soldering those tiny wires to the board, the insulation started curling up on the opposite side. And when you use two pins side by side that was not good. I did get it in there though, but now I am going to modify the smoke unit as you suggested. With the 20 OHM resistor instead of the 27 OHM and modifying the unit itself.

That's the danger of using too much heat, that can happen even with a low wattage iron.  I've gotten several Super-Chuffers back for "repair", and more than once I've just aimed it at the trash can.

You really need a fine tipped soldering iron for doing the wiring to the Super-Chuffer and Chuff-Generator.  I've actually offered a service where I solder the wires to those and then ship them, that way you don't have to do any PCB soldering.

I will get a new soldering iron, before I try installing my other Super Chuffer II in my Lionel B&O EM-1.  As always thanks for all the good advice.

You want a temperature controlled iron.  The reason I keep pushing the Hakko FX888D is it not only has a clear digital temperature display, but it can also be calibrated by the end user so you know that the temperature you see is actually the tip temperature.  IMO, irons that you can't calibrate are not nearly as desirable.  I've found that this FG-100 Soldering Iron Tip Thermometer from eBay for $16.49 is quite accurate and certainly inexpensive enough to keep around.

Awesome, thank you. Its always good to have the right tools for the job, instead of struggling with it all the time. Now if I could still see properly, I would be all set. My Son showed me some of the lighted magnifying lights, that they have on Amazon. To put on the table, when I work locomotives. I have to get myself one soon.

I'd be lost without my magnifier on the bench!  I also have one of the visor models you stick on your head with lights for working away from the bench.  I have this Brightech LightView PRO on my bench, I would be lost without it.  Best $70 I've spent in a long time.  I got it four years ago, and it's been in constant use.  I finally wore out the cord at the last bend, and I had to take it apart and slide the power cord up about six inches and connect it again, good for another four years.  With all the bending and adjustment it gets, I'm surprised it lasted the four years without maintenance!

That is what I need. Using reading glasses and a flashlight, just makes the job a lot less enjoyable. Thanks again John for the good advice.

Gee, with a flashlight, how to you hold the solder and the iron?

When I saw John post his workbench in another thread I asked him which lamp it was and he told me so I bought one.  I can attest that it is well made and beats my Optivisor by a mile.

John

GRJ,  Did you come up with a more secure mounting system than the included clamp?  I've repurposed an old kitchen counter top and don't have enough overhang to accommodate the clamp. 

It is a large rechargeable that I lay on its side on the table. But it does not always put the light where it is needed. I have worked on a lot of locomotives the past year or so.  From tearing them down, repairing them, replacing drive shafts, soldering etc.  And I definitely need better equipment and lighting. All your advice has been greatly appreciated.

@Windy City posted:

GRJ,  Did you come up with a more secure mounting system than the included clamp?  I've repurposed an old kitchen counter top and don't have enough overhang to accommodate the clamp.

Nope, the clamp works fine on my bench, so I had no need to do something different.   Given that the light just drops into the hole in the clamp, you could drill a hole and find some sort of bushing to keep it solid to mount the lamp.

Well I installed a Super Chuffer II in my C&O Mallet, thanks to all the good advice from gunrunnerjohn. It did not seem to work at first. But now it looks like there is a fire in the livingroom. I wanted to share the reason that it did not seem to be working. I could hear the smoke unit motor running. And if I blew into the smoke stack, smoke would come out by the steam chest. So it knew everything  was hooked up, but smoke would not come out of the smoke stack. So I took the locomotive back apart. I un soldered the smoke unit motor wires. And I put the batting and the circuit board on a brand new smoke motor housing with a brand new motor. Apparently  the motor was too weak for the Super Chuffer. Moral of the story, if your going to install a Super Chufer II in your locomotive. I would strongly suggest building it with a brand new motor assembly.

One issue you can run into is the smoke motor draws excessive current, that will cause issues.  A good smoke motor should draw no more than a max of 50 milliamps on a 5VDC supply, and most are in the 30-35 milliamp range.