Trying to make an access point into my layout because I've grown out of ducking under it.
Need some help on creating a lift out section. 30" long with the MTH 40-1109 Bridge while using Lionel Fastrack.
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Hi Robert,
My layout is similar in design to yours. I'd start by making a base for your bridge, probably out of at least 1/2" plywood and fasten the bridge to it. That should strengthen the bridge as it appears to be made of plastic which may or may not withstand repeated removal and installation. I'd probably also put something on the underside of the plywood to stiffen it and keep it from warping. You can get small metal stock, either I-shaped or L-shaped and attach it lengthwise to the bottom of the plywood. I did this on a bridge I made and it has worked very well to keep it true. You could also put hinges on one end and make it a drawbridge. There are different opinions on hinge placement to avoid jack-knifing if the rails, but I've found placing the hinges slightly above the railhead or a few inches back away from the break in the rails will work. I've done both on my layout. I'll try to dig up some pictures for you and post them.
John
Here's how I solved that problem, the only "lifting" is the finger on the switch. 
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Here's a shot of my temporary span. The hinge height may have been overkill, but I wanted to be sure it worked, and it did. The temporary span allowed me to continue working on the rest of the track while the permanent bridge was being built. As you can see, the hinges on the metal bridge are also above the rail head, and everything works very well.
John
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The hinge above the track works to move the track apart before the track turns. There is a garage door panel hinge that accomplishes this too. The hinge is above the plates that mount it and we used it for two panels that lift up for access to doors.
That may have been slight overkill. 
The lift bridge we built for the modular club uses the same technique, but the hinges just sit on the surface, they work fine to insure the rails align properly.
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Here's a photo I took of the National Capital Trackers lift bridge at York in October.
Charlie
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gunrunnerjohn posted:That may have been slight overkill.
The lift bridge we built for the modular club uses the same technique, but the hinges just sit on the surface, they work fine to insure the rails align properly.
When it comes to building bridges, I'm a halfway decent insurance agent!
It wasn't very pretty, but it worked and held together while Jim Ballmann built the permanent bridge.
Back to addressing the OP's question, I strongly encourage you to take the time to make it a drawbridge rather than a lift-out section. Installation and removal will get old pretty fast. If you want a custom bridge, Jim Ballmann of Stainless Unlimited does great work.
John
BlueComet400, I think you did a really nice job. I plan to do something similar to what CPowell posted.
GRJ, how do you guys get the hinges on the surface? According to Jim Barrett's video on the subject the hinges have to at least at the same height as the top of the rails. If I remember correctly.
The pivot point of the hinges did end up at the top of the rails. Another trick is to make a slight angle cut away from the hinges on the non-hinged end so that as the tracks lift, they separate naturally.
Question on the liftout bridge...I assume that the track pins have been removed at the both ends. Assuming that you have power to each section of track before and after the break? I have a 2 piece Christmas layout where it's difficult to connect the track behind the tree; thinking something along the lines of a lift out concept would work better?
