Is there a way to create isolated blocks with Fastrack after it is installed?

It might be easier than you think.  If you have good level benchwork and plywood that is now uneven, then you only need to screw down fastrack every so often where it makes sense.  The screws are not a fun size to find in phillips head.

A couple ways you can do this.  Don't decorate right up to the track so you can take it out at a later date or if you have an idea where the isolated sections might go, you can isolate the outside rail, install a set of leads that stick out the bottom of the plywood already attached to the fastrack for later installation and if you want that outside rail connected, still install the lead into the isolated common rail and jumper it to the next piece of track under the layout, you can come back later and cut the jumper when you are ready to isolate.  

-Ted

You will need to remove some tracks. You can purchase activator track and extensions to create a section with an isolated rail or you can make them yourself.

here's a how to make an isolated rail from a previous thread.

You can also use an IR sensor to activate accessories.

As TMack explained, it's not a big problem. #4 Phillips head screws, 3/4" are more of problem to find in bulk packs than creating an isolated section.

You can remove all the side-to-side jumpers under the Fastrack before installation.  Then, at the later date, you can just cut the signal rail at the appropriate place to create the insulated track section of any length you desire. This is how other track systems are anyway, like Atlas or Gargraves.

This avoids having to take up any track to retrofit it.

TMack, Moonman, Gunrunnerjohn, thanks.  All of your suggestions will be helpful.  I'm going to try to plan as much as possible, but each of your methods alone, or combined, seems like great alternatives to ripping up finished work.  Since I am an engineer, I sort of expect the "track laying" phase to be extended. Hopefully, I'll make all of the adjustments before too much scenery is installed.  Thanks, again.

TMack, loved your Youtube on using LEDs and wall warts.  Christmas video?

Gunrunnerjohn, maybe I'll bump into you at Henning's some day.  I'm about five minutes away.  Just bought a Lionel Thomas there for my grandson.

Merry Christmas!

Ron

I'm up at Henning's regularly, I do repairs for them.

As mentioned above, you have to remove ALL the side to side metal jumper plates from under the tracks. Then you have to figure the cross connections on turnouts and crossings. This is the same procedure as with traditional tinplate track. ALL of the track needs to be isolated. Then you can figure where you will need to make cuts for signalling or occupancy.

Thats the procedure we used in building the beltline at the club. And when you are adjusting your trackwork, make sure the extra pieces you put in have the jumpers removed also. Boy, did we have fun trying to figure where the short was.

Is there a post somewhere that shows how to handle switches?  I'm not educated on those connections, other than the normal connections to the switch for operations.  Thanks.

Ron

A Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel...it's a wonderful thing.

Frank,

thanks, I am going to make a new LED video now that I am using the strips which are even better/easier to use.

-Ted