Issue With Lionel 6-18501 Western Maryland NW-2 Switcher

I rarely use mine, it was running the same way until I cleaned out all the old grease and then "pickled" it with Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2, and Mobil 1 on the oiling points. It runs perfect right out of the box every time now.

Also, the 1033 may be on the under powered side with a 16 volt maximum output, although similar sets were furnished with the 1033 back in the 40s-50s.

Between lubrication and some break-in time, you will have a diesel that will run great for over 65 years to come.

If you do the two things above, it may be time to change the brushes on the AC Pullmor motor.

The locomotive is essentially new, although I bought it as used.  The motor brushes are like new.  The gear grease is pliable but I cleaned it anyway and added fresh grease to the worm gear and axle gears.  I also put a couple drops of oil on the armature wick.  On my test track, which is powered by a KW, it works well.  I have a good suspicion that my 1033 is tired.  I placed a meter on it at the track.  With the throttle at full, the meter reads 14.8 volts.  I also checked the fixed voltage taps.  They also read about a 1 1/2 volts less than the stated output.  

Dan, I purchased that engine new many years ago and it was not a good runner.   It was 1989 or 1990.   I did all the mentioned fixes back then and it is what it is.    The AC motor used in that engine was not the good PW motor used in the PW NW-2.  It was a looker but that was it.  A modern transformer may help a bit.  This would make a super Timko conversion.

Marty Fitzhenry posted:

Dan, I purchased that engine new many years ago and it was not a good runner.   It was 1989 or 1990.   I did all the mentioned fixes back then and it is what it is.    The AC motor used in that engine was not the good PW motor used in the PW NW-2.  It was a looker but that was it.  A modern transformer may help a bit.  This would make a super Timko conversion.

Thanks Marty.  I've sent them a note to see if my locomotive is a candidate for their services.  

I have three of these, the WM and two of the Southern Pacific version, purchased as new old stock around 2005 . All three are excellent runners. All three require regular application of a couple of drops of light oil to the felt wick at the top of the armature shaft. Otherwise they will run sluggishly. I apply oil after 3 - 4 hours of run time. The wick can be reached with a needle oiler, so it is not necessary to remove the shell.

Allan

On my test track, powered by a KW transformer, the loco runs very well.  I have a C & O 624 switcher that arrived only a few days ago.  It has an electronic E unit.  It runs much better than the newer switcher.  I'm going to give the Western Maryland loco another try on the Xmas layout, since it's been lubed & oiled.  

I have this NW-2 Switcher which I purchased back in the winter of 1989 along with the entire set of freight cars that went with it.  I have not run this engine for probably 10 years if not more.  After reading some of the initial posts re: this engine which were less than complimentary I pulled it off of the shelf to run it because I remembered that it ran quite well when I first purchased it.  All I did was grease the external gears with white lithium grease and replenished the oil wick with a drop or two of oil.  The engine ran smoothly and pulled twelve modern freight cars with ease.  It runs just as well as my post war 622, 6220, 623, 624 and 6250 which were the best of the post war NW-2 Switchers.  I'm no expert but I think the motor in this engine is the same one used in the better post war switchers.  I think its  a great idea for you to let this engine stretch its legs a bit on your Christmas layout to get the kinks out.  I still like the older "Pullmore" motors in my older engines so personally I would not convert it but then again to each his own. 

After reading some of the initial posts re: this engine which were less than complimentary I pulled it off of the shelf to run it because I remembered that it ran quite well when I first purchased it.

Other than the one post above, I don't recall ever reading anything negative about those engines.

I just had the chance to run the Western Maryland switcher again on my Christmas layout.  My other NW-2, a post-war 624 C & O NW-2, with an electronic E-unit takes less voltage to run at a reasonable speed.  The Western Maryland switcher with a mechanical E-Unit requires full throttle on my 1033 transformer to run at a speed that is quite a bit slower.  

Is there a good video that details how to oil a loco? 

Dan Padova posted:

I just had the chance to run the Western Maryland switcher again on my Christmas layout.  My other NW-2, a post-war 624 C & O NW-2, with an electronic E-unit takes less voltage to run at a reasonable speed.  The Western Maryland switcher with a mechanical E-Unit requires full throttle on my 1033 transformer to run at a speed that is quite a bit slower.  

As I stated in my original post I ran my Western Maryland NW-2 Switcher with 12 modern freight cars and it ran like a top.  Of course, I was operating with a PW Lionel ZW transformer and pulling at 16 volts.  I compared this engine with a later 6250 TMCC engine from Lionel and they both pulled about the same .   In my opinion the Western Maryland NW-2 Switcher from 1989 Lionel is a good engine and as I originally stated it compares favorably with Lionel's early NW-2 Switchers.

I'm waiting for a post-war TW 175 watt transformer to arrive.  After doing some reading about it, it seems like the best one to use for single train operation.  It's been completely serviced, so I am expecting a small miracle.  

Dan Padova posted:

I'm waiting for a post-war TW 175 watt transformer to arrive.  After doing some reading about it, it seems like the best one to use for single train operation.  It's been completely serviced, so I am expecting a small miracle.  

Unfortunately, it would have to be a miracle.

The TW is simply two 1033s inside one case - one for the train, the other for accessories. The train performance will be identical to a properly working 1033/1044, but with the advantage of the accessories not putting any extra load on the train.

I know you said you already checked the lube, but if you are looking for things to do while waiting for that new transformer...

I recently serviced a 1990s pullmor powered GP with very little run time. The old grease looked fine, still pliable, but I discovered that some of it had actually solidified in the grooves of the worm shaft, like dried out mud that packs between the nubs on your shoes. I had to dig it out with toothpicks. After that, engine performance improved noticeably.So, even if you checked the grease, you might want to look again and make sure all the old stuff really is gone out of those grooves.

Also, be sure the armature turns freely with your fingers after you reassemble it. I have gotten them back together before and had the gears grinding. If you do that, it'll run, but it will use more power than it should, and kind of 'surge' along in spurts.

The old grease looked fine, still pliable, but I discovered that some of it had actually solidified in the grooves of the worm shaft, like dried out mud that packs between the nubs on your shoes. I had to dig it out with toothpicks. After that, engine performance improved noticeably.So, even if you checked the grease, you might want to look again and make sure all the old stuff really is gone out of those grooves.

Great tip.

IMHO, it is always a good idea to clean in-between the teeth of all gears. The worm wheel (gear) and the gears attached to the back of drive wheels are also subject to a build up of old dried grease and compacted lint.

NICKAIX, I have had the armature out and checked the grease, but just to be certain, I'll take it apart again.

ADCX Rob posted:

Dan Padova posted:

I'm waiting for a post-war TW 175 watt transformer to arrive.  After doing some reading about it, it seems like the best one to use for single train operation.  It's been completely serviced, so I am expecting a small miracle.  

Unfortunately, it would have to be a miracle.

The TW is simply two 1033s inside one case - one for the train, the other for accessories. The train performance will be identical to a properly working 1033/1044, but with the advantage of the accessories not putting any extra load on the train.

Isn't that the point, Rob ?   If the accessories are taking some of the 90 available watts on the 1033, wouldn't all of that go to the train if I used, say two 1033s ?   So according to the Lionel post war description, the TW will be able to power the train with no side effects from any lights and accessories draining power from the train windings in the transformer.