Issues with AF Polar Express steam engine derailments

I think I may have found what I was looking for https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/g...tions/messages/77193 Let me know if you're aware of any additional information on this topic.  Thank you.

I had that issue. A couple of things, The engine needs a wider radius curve then what come with the set. Front pilot would derail. Fix was to add a little weight to it as it is to lite. Also the traction tires are to skinny. Causes the drive wheels to slip off the rails where track is not even. It also give the impression that the drive wheels are warped. Fix is wider traction tire. 

Ask him how long ago the wheels got cleaned.....?

I've added a heavier downforce  spring  to counter similar poor tracking on  O gauge Lionel's.

...but now I've read the yahoo page and the issue does seem to be involving a spring. I think your done hunting too ( yahoo pages sometimes can't be accessed by nonmembers. But that link worked fine)

Suzukovich: It sounds like you had pilot truck and driver derailment issues.  Thanks for your tips on how to address those.  Who's wider pulmor bands did to you replace the original tires with?  Did you also happen to experience the trailing truck derailment issues described in the Yahoo post?  Thanks.

I saw the link. Once I added a little weight to the front truck and replaced the traction tires it pretty much went away.   As for traction tire replacement. I didn't have any spares handy and couldn't locate my stash of MTH Steam traction tires so I used this and has seamed to work well so far.

http://www.globalindustrial.co...d5QD0UCSJhoCLEvw_wcB

I've not yet used that for traction, but I love it for electrical use. Especiallly auto and trailer wire exposed to the elements; beats tape by far.

Home Depot has a similar product in Black and red.  I use it for wire joints instead of shrink wrap.

It comes in a full range of basic colors.  Dry time and applying layers to poor splices with "pokers" are the only real drawbacks. But pokers also puncture tubes and tape too. The likely hood in the order listed. Layers will fill over a poker so it never rears its ugly head again. Over tape it's a glue to insure against unraveling. I've used it for about 40 years, off-road and professional electronics settings, it's a must. You can expose a wire mid length for a meter probe, and just dot the hole after.

Reality was I figure it couldn't hurt. The fact that it most cases it adheres to the surface its put on and is form fitting after it dries. I had tested my theory on an old engine and since you can scrape it off it was worth a try. Since I found no issues, popsicle stick sanded down I applied to the Berk. The traction tire only fills up a fraction of the grove on the driver. This filled all of it in with out gaps. The reason I said it needs a wider traction tire. So far no issues with traction or derailments. In hindsight next time I will use the tube version which will be easier to apply.   Same principle how others had used frog snot for the same thing on O scale engines.

Others use silicone too, but I think you'd get a smoother surface and better grip on the rails with L.E.T.. It would be a fun test to compare.

Adriatic posted:

Others use silicone too, but I think you'd get a smoother surface and better grip on the rails with L.E.T.. It would be a fun test to compare.

Its what I had handy.  Email sent.

Sgaugian posted:

I think I may have found what I was looking for https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/g...tions/messages/77193 Let me know if you're aware of any additional information on this topic.  Thank you.

I fixed mine by changing the conical spring to one that is used by Gilbert on the front trucks. It isn't as strong as the Lionel one and I left it in the upper position as the original was. It now has just enough tension on the drawbar without lifting the rear wheels on the trailing truck.