Also, if there are any opinions for or against the European style, I'd like to hear them.
Also, if there are any opinions for or against the European style, I'd like to hear them.
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I just use short wires on one side of the strip.
Dale H
Also, if there are any opinions for or against the European style, I'd like to hear them.
With the European style terminal strips you can use a wire to jumper from socket to socket. Depending on the strip type and wire gauge, you should be able to get more than 1 wire into each socket. I think you can also get jumpers for the European strips as you can with the American type. Digikey has a huge selection of terminal blocks and jumpers.
These fuse assemblies, (picture center), are loop wired together on the right hand side using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire.
Additional picture.
I just use short wires on one side of the strip.
Dale H
That's what I was wondering about...do two wires fit inside each terminal?
There are different sized barrier strips. The medium size strips take at least 2, # 16 wires. #18 is good enough for jumpers at least up to 10 amp loads.
Dale H
These are those white multi section strips with a two screws vertically? They have them at Radio Shack? I use #18 wires that are formed into an upside U shape...and drop them in from the top. You mentioned not stripping...I don't get that. Probably possible, but I think stripping so the bare wire is secured under the screw is best.
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You mentioned not stripping...I don't get that. Probably possible, but I think stripping so the bare wire is secured under the screw is best.
That's what I wasn't sure about. Again, the kid at Radio Shack knew nothing. He didn't even know what jumpers were for the regular (American) barrier strips.
xrayvizhen: the salespeople at Radio Shack know how to sell cell phones. That is the extent of their knowledge. The 2 at my local store know that I know what i'm there for, and don't even try to distract me.
These are those white multi section strips with a two screws vertically? They have them at Radio Shack? I use #18 wires that are formed into an upside U shape...and drop them in from the top. You mentioned not stripping...I don't get that. Probably possible, but I think stripping so the bare wire is secured under the screw is best.
Known as Choc Blocks over here in the UK. You do have to strip the wires.
For a Professional job terminate the wire with a pin terminal.
These Choc Blocks are used for lots of things here. Where you guys use twist on connectors such as ceiling lights etc. We use the choc style.
I have noticed Choc Blocks are very expensive when I had to buy one in the US. $8 for 1 from Lowes. I finally found something that was cheaper in the UK!
If the intent is just to connect all the wires together (adding jumpers) the same can be achieve using an electric panel neutral bar. I have (3) of these common buss connections, for both track common and accessory common.
Addition common bar used for the Atlas 6924 relay board installations.
I have noticed Choc Blocks are very expensive when I had to buy one in the US. $8 for 1 from Lowes. I finally found something that was cheaper in the UK!
Things like that, one in a package, do have a high margin. It's probably reasonable since it's low volume, and labor intensive to market that way. I think Radio Shack is cheaper at $3.50, and Ebay is lots cheaper. But, you have to be careful on the bay because some of them are poor quality.
If the intent is just to connect all the wires together (adding jumpers) the same can be achieve using an electric panel neutral bar. I have (3) of these common buss connections, for both track common and accessory common.
Addition common bar used for the Atlas 6924 relay board installations.
The way I use the Euro blocks is to jumper half of the block together on each side for A and U connections. I always bring both sides of the circuit to the rail or other load. So in my case half of the block is all black or U wires and the other half red or A wires. And I tie each of the two sections together with short bare wires formed in a U and drop them down from the top into the block...daisy chain style. Doesn't matter much, but I like them to be insulated from whatever wood I screw them down to under the table.
........Doesn't matter much, but I like them to be insulated from whatever wood I screw them down to under the table. Both bars pictured are insulated from the wood where they are mounted. Note the plastic post at both ends of each bar. You can purchase ground bars that don't have the plastic ends, which would mount directly to the wood.
There are many ways to accomplish the task. It comes down to which way you feel comfortable with. I prefer the European style to me they are quicker more compact and more affordable than the Barrier terminal strips . And yes the shorting strips are available if a person wants to use them.
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OK - I picked up the European style today - 12 position. They didn't have any shorting or jumper strips so I'll just connect one terminal to the next with short loops of wire.
What I'm trying to do is create a low cost version of the MTH or Miniatronics 12 port terminal block but $20 - $25 is kind of nuts IMO. Euro style blocks were $4 each.