Kadee on Atlas

1) take the truck off, and remove the claw assembly from the truck.

2) Locate the exact spot to want the Kadee gearbox. Having done many older Atlas freight cars, you will find that the Kadee gearbox sticks out too far if you use the mounting holes provided by Atlas on their freight cars. Thus, I have had to drill & tap all ne mounting holes for the correct position of the Kadee gearbox. Since you are dealing with a tank car, THAT may not be a wise decision, as the drill will come right up through the end walkway.

3) Forget the Kadee couplers, and purchase the new, latest model of the Atlas "Scale coupler", as the mounting holes are designed for the latest Atlas O Scale, 2-Rail couplers.

"Need help installing Kadee on Atlas 10,000 Gal. tank car"

   Hi, What exactly do you need to know? I haven't done an Atlas car for a few years but last time I did one their screw spacing was not quite the same as the Kadee coupler box so it took a bit of reaming out the hole to get the rear screw in. For that reason I usually just used Atlas scale couplers on Atlas cars, I don't like the Atlas couplers as well but I like the easier mounting and the Atlas airhoses because I clip off the coupler trip pins. Hopefully some one will post some more up to date info on latest Atlas practices...DaveB

Will all Atlas cars accept the new Atlas scale couplers?  Where do you get yours?  Thanks

The latest AtlasO "scale couple" design features a head that is a virtual clone of the Kadee 805.  The coupler pocket continues to use the "unique" Atlas machine screw location and spacing.  Before installing the new AtlasO coupler be sure to file any flash off the coupler face. A remaining flaw in the Atlas coupler product is spring tension that is overly stiff.  My solution was to substitute Kadee knuckle springs to achieve smooth low speed coupling.  If you use Kadee's delayed action feature (I don't) you should replace Atlas's stiff centering spring with softer ones available from Kadee. 

Ed 

WB

I can't help you with where to buy the new redesigned scale AtlasO couplers as my  tips/lessons above came from working with recent production 2 rail cars.  I checked the AtlasO on-line catalog for their O scale coupler and they do list them - but the photo doesn't show the side of the coupler head with the Kadee 805 style external spring.  Since AtlasO has imported at least 4 slightly different scale couplers leading up to the Kadee clone I recommend calling AtlasO to confirm the correct part number before ordering couplers on line.  The earlier designs are bad news both from breakage and operations perspectives.  Other than spring tension (which is easily addressed) the new couplers have stood up to heavy use on my mountain grades.  Rather than drilling and tapping new holes or mis-aligning a Kadee pocket with the end sill of an Atlas car, I recommend using a re-sprung AtlasO Kadee clone. 

Ed Rappe

Thank you

I kinda thought I would have to get the new Atlas coupler for this one.

Once again thanks 

Clem k

I use Kadees with Atlas cars. In my Kadee videos, I show drilling out the Kadee draft gear box with a 3/32" drill bit. That is a big reason why... Atlas cars! You drill those holes at at slight angle and the screws will line up with the atlas coupler holes.

I also show cutting off that bulky coupler to allow room for the draft gear box.

I tried the Atlas couplers....now they go in the trash. New or old, don't matter, my cars and engines get Kadee's

I agree. I pretty much threw out all the atlas O couplers, and up-graded to Kadee. However, it sometimes is a pia to drill and tap all new holes in the underframe since sometimes there is something REALLY hard inside the car (steel weight?) that the drill bit hits after going thru the plastic floor.

Clem, I converted an Atlas 8000 gal to Kadees the other day.  As previously mentioned, drop the trucks and remove the claw and associated metal bits.  I installed a metal Kadee box and fixed with only one screw - you can tighten the metal boxes down quite tight and get by with the one fixation point.  The plastic draft boxes don't tolerate such a tight screw, but they will still hold.

What mounting hole did you use? It looks like the Kadee gearbox might be sticking out past the endsill, in you photo. I have always tried to have that lip on the gearbox cover, flush with the edsill of the car, thus I have always had to drill new holes in order to set the Kadee gearbox back.

Gregg    I have used one screw before and put real thin double sticky tape under it to keep it from moving. This one I was going to use a plastic gear box because of the metal frame. It is possible on a derailment the trip pin could short on the third rail. I'll try it with the metal box and see how it works. Thanks for the photo.

Hot water   I know what you mean about getting that coupler even with the end sill, looks so much better. On this one I might have to add a little black plastic to make it look good.

Clem 

HW, I used the outermost one, and it sticks out way more than I would like.  For now it is acceptable as I was in a hurry to get rid of the claws <g>.  I will drill and tap a new hole when converting it to 2R.  Amazing how the project list grows!

Clem, the double sided tape sounds like a great idea.  I cut the trip pins off of all the Kadees since I do not use the magnetic uncouplers.

 I don't redrill or tap anything on the car. After you assemble the Kadee just clean up the mounting holes with a slightly larger numbered bit. Often times when you assemble the coupler and secure the lid by tapping a punch or an old Phillips screwdriver into the hole. It loses it's round shape and the screw will have less wiggle room. If you haven't already. Pickup some 2mm threaded screws phillips screws from a source such as Microfasteners in different lengths. The 2mm screws fit the Atlas chassis. They are smaller than a 2 56 and will have some wiggle room in the Kadee box. Usually one Micromark shim is required. Select the proper length. I believe it's 10mm. Catch one screw by a few threads. You should be able to hold the coupler at a slight angle enough to catch the second screw. Now alternately tighten each screw and walk the coupler tight to the chassis. Using a phillips screw is a must. A slotted screw just won't work for this. This method makes up for the misalignment of the mounting holes.

 As Hot Water mentioned the Kadee box doesn't sit up against the car body. But it's not that bad and this method is a lot easiier than drilling and tapping the chassis.

Thank you Dave C

I do have the 2mm screws and like you said it can be done, I just put in one screw and a metal box coupler instead of a plastic box. It does stick out to far on this small tank, on other box cars it doe's not show.

Clem

In spite of the occasional difficulty of drilling & taping new holes on Atlas O freight cars, I still prefer the more prototypical appearance of NOT having the gearbox sticking out past the end sill on 1930s/1940s era freight cars.