Layout Indecision

Go with the #5 with the straight run at the top for ease of running.  The curvy track in #6 will create difficulties.

 

Build either and run.  The advantage of doing you own is you can make changes as needed after trains have been running.

Yes, over thinking it certainly plays into layout planning process. I went through it last year and after hundreds of variations I finally just named the latest file "Final" and went at it. But now a couple months into it, I have to say I've gone back to RRT during the construction process, and I'm now on "Final_3". It really helps to think things through as you build, particularly where you are confined to what is a smaller layout.

 

I'd suggest you start building, but don't put the track down in a permanent fashion on the top part. You may want to have the inner loop move away from the direct parallel to the outer in at least one place. Doesn't have to a great amount, maybe just enough for a row of buildings. That will give a nice feel as two trains go away from each other, or find each other on the other end. The other consideration is how will the trains you run handle the swooping s-curves you're designing. Shorter trains should be fine, but lay down the track and play with it.

 

And keep us updated with photos.

 

Tim

The previous posters offer good advice. Set up a layout and start playing with it, but don't fasten down the track. You will soon see what you like and don't like and you can adjust from there. I think this is a good way to start and am planning on doing the same thing myself. We are sort of in the same boat. I can't seem to finalize a plan and can't afford to do everything I want to do all at once. Going to have to follow the budget, so doing a little at a time.

 

 

Use #5, the S curves in #6 are trouble waiting to happen.

Run the outside loop into a tunnel at the beginning (bottom) of the curve on the left top corner.

Exit the tunnel at the right end of the straight or after the curve there, your choice.

Drop another switch on the inside upper run, A siding feeding a couple businesses there will add as well.

 

Now you are separated and the train disappearing for a bit adds to visuals.

Thank you everyone for the response.  Having read various posts before, adding the "dive" towards the center on #6 had me concerned about possible derailments.  Your feedback has confirmed that as a potential issue, so i will nix it.

 

Russell -

I was planning on adding a tunnel, but not necessarily where you had stated.  (Also was planning for the tunnel to cover both tracks)  After having read your idea, i think i actually like it better, especially if the trains are running parallel because you'll see one go into the tunnel and then get to watch the other train as it goes along and then see them "meet up" again at the tunnel exit.

 

Thanks again for all the responses!

You might also want to rework the 2 crossovers on the bottom by relocating them to the curves like so. This will let you run through at faster speeds than you could through the reverse (S) curves of the traditional crossover. I think it looks a little less congested too.

 

 

 

You can also do a figure 8 on the inside of the outer oval.  With a couple of smartly placed switches you now have a couple of reverse loops to change train directions.  With some careful planning, you will still be able to get a couple of spurs for industries.

 

EDIT:  I just now noticed it's listed as FasTrack.  I currently have a O36 figure 8 inside a O48 oval on my carpet right now.  Using the standard O36 figure 8 the O48 loop fits perfect with correct 6" track spacing with 5 10" straights per side.

A classic conundrum. I have 6 x 10 right now. Last year I had a folded figure 8 inside a large outer loop and a interloop connection. I got a siding right in the front for the station using the switch as part of the curve trick above.

 

Problem was the elevation was to fast with 36" curves. Some engines had a real struggle making that hill.

 

Right now I'm trying to decide on a new plan. You're right 2 loops are boring. And I want sidings to park stuff on (I hate taking things off the track just to run something different).

 

The tendency is to put the track to close to the edge to get more room. Though I have track up to O60 I've already decided to use mostly O36 to get things further into the corners. Don't dismiss adding an upper level. Maybe not the whole 6x11 but a section of it. I'm trying to elevate section onto a riser that will form a tunnel for the main level and an upper destination with a reverse loop over a bridge. Still deciding on how to do the bottom level, but if you do this you can put your trestels on the outside loops which means you can can less time in the curves for better climbing. I already know I will use the O60s or the O48s for the climbing turn.

 

Best thing is this: decide if it's a display or an operating layout. If it's operating you want shorter engines and cars and a yard area. If it's operating work out your runs and you can use somewhat larger engines. Add passing sidings somewhere (mine has 2 now) and you can park a train or two while they are running. While I want 2 trains running I don't think I'll get it this time.

 

Figure it this way, Fastrack is meant to be rearranged. Try something and if you don't like it, keep notes on what you don't like and in 8 months do something different.

 

Also, I use Anyrail and frankly it doesn't always connect like it should. I tried duping some layouts in the Fastrack book to modify and they wouldn't lay out correctly. So I mess around to get a rough idea and then go to the table and arrange track and just look at it. You'd be surprised what you can make fit with the right combinations of short pieces.

 

Frank

Boy do I ever feel your pain on this post.

 

I've been going through the same exact thing for the past month. I'm working with a 16' x 7.5' space - fully contained by walls on all sides.

 

That narrowness really kills flexibility, especially if you need larger than O-31 minimum curves. It's really hard to do something that doesn't devolve into some variation of a racetrack.

 

If you haven't already, have you considered an around-the-room layout rather than a big table?

 

Steve

 

 

Steve

If you are around-the-room, a mainline with 072 end curves is possible in the 90"[7.5'] space leaving ample clearance from center rail to wall/edge. 

Depends on your "Druthers".

Unfortunately, for my space, around the room won't work, although it would be nice if i could get that done.

 

Thanks again for all the feedback.   I've got some ideas circulating, including on how to add a second level (though i'm feeling a bit concerned on my ability to actually pull that off).  I know that i'm not going to bother tackling any grades until i have a larger space as i'd rather not push the engines any harder than i have to.

 

I'll do some more designs in RR Track and let everyone take a look once i have a few more to show.

Sorta makes HO look better, doesn't it? Or N.

Does an around-the-room not work due to the room itself - i.e. you can't build against the walls, and need a freestanding layout?

I had serious doubts about an around-the-room but after lots of revisions, and reading a few books about switching layouts in small spaces, I was able to come up with something that I'm quite happy with, and which fits in my 16' x 7.5' space.



In any event, good luck!!

Steve

Anything Rails:

Not really expecting you can do this on the above plans but food for thought:

For working with space slightly larger than O-31 minimum but not big enough for Full large radius corners consider this:

I make easements in corners with larger radius to O-31 to larger radius on each corner. Currently in my Den I have O-54, O-31, 1/2 O-54 Realtrax corners.

You do lose a bit of the straight length between corners. Again, Everything is a tradeoff.

These eased curves run much smoother than slamming straight into an O-31 curve.

In the past I had a larger Basement layout, O-72 to O-54 to O-72 on the curves that could not maintain O-72 all the way around and it ran very nicely.

Looks like your curves are O36 and O48, so the S curves look to be too sharp.   If you can make it work with wider diameter curves like O48 and O60, then the S will give you some great looks as the trains negotiate them.   So its worth investigating.  Definitely set up a test loop with the inside track to see what works.