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As some may know I'm building my first permanent layout.  I finished my track plan and have the track laid out, not permanently attached yet.   I have a question on power requirements though.  My idea was to break up the layout into 4 power blocks but they may be overkill.  Its only a small to medium size layout, about 25 x 20 or so.   At most I will probably be able to run 2 trains at a time.   I do have a grade going up and down.

 

What I am basically unsure of is how much power say 2 trains, all the fastrack switches, etc would consume to make sure I never run short of power.

 

So here are my Specs of what I have and can work with:

 

Two ZW-L transformers 

One ZW-C with 4 180W power bricks

20 Fastrack Switches (may add 2 more so lets say 22 switches) - currently using track power

2 Lionel Grade Crossing with Lights and Gates that use track power

Operating Track Gang Accessory using track power

100% Legacy layout, no conventional or DCS

 

Figure I could be running the Big Boy and another Diesel ABBA set that has say 4 motors and lets say they are both passenger sets, but all LED lighted.

 

Is dividing this into 2 power blocks good enough or should I do 4?  I would prefer to leave the switches setup with track power, as I'm thinking wiring them all for direct power is overkill again.  I mean at any one time probably no more than 2 would be operating and all would be getting 18volts.  The other thing I really like about the switches using track power is when you have a break in the track the switch lantern leds go out and its easy to see an issue.  I had a whole dead section when I first powered everything up (poor fastrack pin connections) and I saw it right away.

 

The second questions is this.  If I do divide it into 2 power block, should I run multiple feeds to different parts of the block from the power source for that block?  or is one feed enough.

 

Remember its not a huge layout.  Here is a pic to get the general idea of the layout.  Its just a flat layout right now, I ahv not built the grades or anything yet.  I was just running some trains around yesterday to give it a shake down and check for geometry or power issues.

 

Thanks so much in advance for your input.

 

Sean

 

 

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I would think you could run it with one transformer.  Why have separate blocks if you are running all Legacy?  The power feeds are the more important part.  Use one transformer with feeders every 4-6 feet apart.  One on your curves and one on your straight runs.  I wouldn't break it up into separate blocks.  I don't see why you need three transformers, to be honest.  You have plenty of power with one.

First off your benchwork looks fabulous Sean! The finish around the edges and your transformer stand is excellent!

 

One suggestion, you may want to consider puting some type of foam or other sound deadoner between the track and wood top to quiet the fastrack noise. This will also allow you to carve in  creeks valleys etc when it comes time for scenery

 

 

IMO your track power draw for switches and acessories is minimal at best. I'd leave them powered through the track and save the excessive extra wiring that would gain little if anything.

 

I have a smaller 10x16 fastrack layout with two loops a 10' inner passing siding and about 25' of yard tracks.

 

I run 14 ga buss and feeders about every 12' on the 2 main loops, and soldered the feeders directly to the tabs under the fastrack.

 

The passing siding and, 2 seperate yards are isolated and each get their own pair of feeders.

 

Putting yards and sidings on toggles give you a place to park trains your not using and remove the power, eliminating any risk from a freak short damaging the electronics.

 

I have 7 remote switches and 2 crossings operated via track power. I'm able to run 2 freights or passenger trains( mix or match) as well as another loco  doing switching.

 

The whole thing is powered by  only1 180w brick, voltage anywhere on the track is identical to the output side of my TPC unit anywhere on the layout.

 

IMO the wire guage is key, don't skimp. 

 

I agree with William regarding transformers, your ZW-C should be more than enough.

Last edited by RickO

Good advice RickO.  That is the way to do it.  I always suggest the IC Control boxes because I have them.  It keeps everything hand held.  An ASC just serves as four toggles.

 

Nice woodwork on the layout by the way.  Looks like it was fun to build.

 

Now get a couple skinny wires run and attached and get some trains running.  Good luck!

Last edited by William 1

great looking layout.  I would think one ZW-L would power the whole thing.  I would use power districts and blocks for two reasons.  It makes it easier to isolate a problem And you can power down sections that you are not using.  Also, if you trip one breaker on your ZW-L, you will still be able to run on the the three other handles.  Since you are full Legacy, I would also use the BPC2 instead of togle switches.  I am using them on mine and they are easy to wire and give you full control from the Cab2 and IPad. Since you are not using DCS you could use a single heavy gauge ground bus wire to reduce wire.  

 

I also soldered my feed wire to the fast track tabs.  It is the best connection and is the cheapest.  I power my switches from track power.  Be sure to power uncoupling and Control tracks from accessory power or the will burn up.  Check fast track continuity often as you go.  I have found several that that had tabs that were dead spots.  I had to make sure the tabs were touching the ground bars. 

You answered your own question. Go from  two to four blocks is the way to go here.

 

The second questions is this.  If I do divide it into 4 power block, should I run multiple feeds to different parts of the block from the power source for that block?  or is one feed enough. 

 

Don't forget room for some Signals too. 

 

Nice layout good luck. John 

 

Sean

 

Layout is coming along nicely.

 

For some reason except for remote track switches I have always kept all auxiliary accessories on a separate power source . I just seem to have less problems isolating a issue.

 

I get the impression from your photos you may have a good amount of lights and buildings eventually.

 

Currently I use a dedicated ZW-C with the bricks for strictly accessories lights, buildings ect.

 

Have Fun

Larry

Sean,

Without all of the details, did you use the 1 3/8" between the switches that connect the two main loops? if I recall, you do have 072 switches. It's the small fitter that fills in the roadbed.

 

Pulling that jumper will give you the isolation for two power districts. A & D off one ZW-L.

 

I would include the line that crosses the entire layout on the inner loop power district.

 

The yard would be a third power district. Could be B or C from the same ZW-L. I do see a crossover near the yard that may need a little work (remove the center rail plate or jumper wire) to isolate  the inner loop power district from the yard power district.

 

The FasTrack switches draw very little power. So, track power for those.

 

Marty Fitz likes to use the ZW-C and bricks for accessory and lighting power.

 

You don't need true power blocks with the center rail isolated. Maybe multiple feed pairs.

 

However, a caveat to that. After discovering the fix for the five and ten inch straight sections on bending the center rail connector, I have been using one feed on an experimental carpet central that I keep making longer and have no issues. I am up to 75 feet now.

 

Then, the only thing you need is the logic and control for the spurs. I use an SC2 with the FasTrack switch fix. You could use one of the new devices. This will keep everything controlled from the remote. You only need that on spurs where engines or lighted cars will sit. You could go manual with toggles as some prefer.

 

You can create a layout control diagram in SCARM using the symbols in the Objects menu to have a visible reference. The blocks do not appear when you print it. You really don't need all of track. Only the control areas.

 

That's my 2¢.

 

I know you're quite resourceful, but if you want an extra set of hands pulling wires, just email me.

 

 

 

 

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