LED for dummies follow up questions

The early MPC aluminum cars were similar to the PW versions in construction.

I used these male/female two-wire connectors to do what you want to do; i.e, mount the power supply on the frame, install the LED's in the roof; and, have the ability to connect/disconnect the two.

The installation with pictures, including the connectors, is in a current thread "Tips for installing LED's in passenger cars."

If memory serves me correctly, I think the picture you posted was originally from gunrunnerjohn. I know he definitely likes command control and runs a lot of it, if he runs conventional I bet it's not much. Maybe he will be along to clarify, but if I am right on this, I don't think you have to worry about the command control voltages.

Also just as an FYI, stan2004 recently pointed out that the CL2N3-G's are now also available at Digi-Key, they were previously unavailable there. Mouser is fine, but I don't think you will find lower shipping rates than USPS First Class from Digi-Key.

I am by no means knowledgeable on the electronics stuff, but I do try to follow gunrunnerjohn and stan2004 (and the other knowledgeable electronics folks) very closely when they are posting about electronics stuff. They are very good folks to follow when trying to learn about the electronics for our trains. Now if some of that would just start sticking, I would be getting somewhere.

rtr12, the photo is of gunrunnerjohn's circuit.  I recently posted it and id'd it as such very recently.

jhz563, as a fellow LED dummy, give credit to those who supplied the information and photos you are using where feasible.  Just a suggestion.

Yes that picture is originally from GRJ.  I  am an electronic novice when it comes to circuit design.  (I know a lot of what can be done, just don't have the background to design it from scratch. )  

Carl, thanks for the two pin link, those will work just fine.

You're welcome.

Suggestion:  use the strike-through editing feature to reflect the fact that you have found the two-wire connectors you were looking for in your original post.

Just went and looked, I saved GRJ's original post of this and a link, unfortunately the thread has now been deleted. He mentioned a PTC (automatic resettable fuse) in the pick up wiring to protect the wiring in the event of a derailment, but with no reference to the specific PTC used in his post. Maybe he will clarify that one for us as well.

Looking at the components from your list, it looks like they are all rated for 35 or more volts, except I can't find a rating on the chokes?  

I've since updated my design from the earlier post with the picture.  I use a 220uf or 330uf cap, the 22uh choke, 1N400x (1 thru 7 is good) diode, and the CL2.  My module actually uses the LM317 in constant current mode so I can provide adjustment for the light level.

There is no voltage rating on the choke, at least none you have to worry about.  You need one that will handle 100ma or more, primarily for the inrush current charging the capacitor.

I posted this before, here it is again.  This is exactly what I use on my lighting module, it allows adjustment of the current from around 5ma to 45ma.  If you don't need adjustment of the lighting, you can put a fixed resistor in the 50-250 ohm range in place of the pot and resistor.

Thanks, I updated my saved info with your latest info. In case I ever get any passenger cars. If I ever do I might just try some of your lighting modules. 

BTW, those flashy lights that stan2004 'made' me order (by posting a picture) came today, some how I ended up with a half dozen of them? More gadgets!

I realize this is a US supplier so you'll get if faster, but if waiting on other eBay parts from Asia anyway, how about 50 for 99 cents (free shipping):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231287...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This was where I got my last batch of 22uH inductors - 2 cents each is a good price.

stan2004, thanks for the link.  I just placed my order.  By comparison, I bought 10 22uh chokes from DigiKey a month or so ago and paid ~$4.50, including USPS postage--$.99 for 50 is a heckuva deal by comparison. 

I don't know how these deals can be so cheap.

John, thank you for your help and your patience.  I apologize if I didn't sufficiently credit your work in my original post.  

If I understand, which is questionable, your updated circuit includes a bridge rectifier in place of the diodes I copied from the other post.  Additionally there is now a LM317 circuit, which I am not familiar with, a 27 ohm resistor and a small potentiometer.  

Please tell me if I am close at your convenience.  I am trying to understand this as I go, I thought I had it figured out before your post, now I feel like a freshmen all over again.

Pingman, I tried to strike out the connector request in my original post but it isn't working on my tablet. Thanks again. 

You tried; good luck with your lighting.

Dear John

I have installed 5 complete passenger car lighting set using the GRJ special. Everything thing works wonderfully thank you for sharing the knowledge. I have a question for you about it as I am not an electronics person.  The question is about hook up the AC wiring to the neg side of the cap. Normally  if hooked up AC to a cap you would get the magic smoke. This not the case with the GRJ special I was wondering why? Please explain it so a non electronic person could understand.

The reason is simple, you're not connecting AC to the cap.   The cap is after the rectifier, so you're supplying the cap with rectified DC voltage, not the raw AC.

Gentlemen,

    You can also get the LED replacement bulbs, Bayonet or Screw in, from Town & Country Hobby on the Net and not have to rework your rolling stock to use the LED's.

They have the bulbs in all different colors and voltages from 12 to 18 these work real well in all the older Lionel lighted rolling stock liked the fish tank cars and cabooses and many many others along with the 022 & 711/072 switches and controllers.  The one's I like best were from Scott's Odds & Ends when the replacement LED's 1st came out, Train Electrics may have some of them in their inventory from the old Scotts buy out.  I happen to like the 12V DC whites myself, they work great.  Sorry about some of the blurry bulb pictures.

PCRR/Dave

Pine Creek Dave, thank you for the source for the direct plug in replacements.  I may due this for a couple of cabooses (Cabeese?).  Anyway for the caboose having a single light or only two lights seems to match the real world ones I've been on.  For the passenger cars though I am looking for even light throughout the car. Additionally this seems like a relatively straight forward project I can complete on my own without breaking the bank or ruining anything that can't easily be replaced.

Thanks again. 

Just a FYI, but here's another source for the bayonet and screw type replacement LEDs that might be a little less for small quantities. I have used them and had good results. They are 18 volt and AC or DC and most are available in white, red & green.  TrainAidsA