LED Indicator and switch unit

I like these.

If you do choose an illuminated automotive switch as suggested above, take a look at this OGR thread.

There are many inexpensive and nice-looking automotive switches.  But their internal LEDs are meant to be driven from 12V DC...that is, they lamps are driven by the same voltage as what the switch itself is controlling.  Since you are presumably switching Accessory AC voltage (say, 14V AC or 16V AC), it is prudent to add a 5-cent diode as illustrated in the linked thread.

Another consideration which might apply is that some of these automotive switches short the load when OFF.  This can be a factor if your illuminated switch is controlling block power to a siding (see the discussion in the other thread).  But even if controlling accessories, if you have two illuminated ON/OFF switches allowing control from different sides of a large layout...this can also ruin your day!

I would be surprised if you can find an illuminated LED switch that directly works with Accessory 14-16V AC.

I just revisited that older thread and the Calterm switches I used actually do NOT short the load to earth. I just measured one to be sure. Probably why I never had an issue with them. So if you can find them or measure the ones you find...they should work. The LED would light sufficiently with 12 to 14 vac. I bought these switches in the automotive section of the local Farm store.

@stan2004 posted:

If you do choose an illuminated automotive switch as suggested above, take a look at this OGR thread.

There are many inexpensive and nice-looking automotive switches.  But their internal LEDs are meant to be driven from 12V DC...that is, they lamps are driven by the same voltage as what the switch itself is controlling.  Since you are presumably switching Accessory AC voltage (say, 14V AC or 16V AC), it is prudent to add a 5-cent diode as illustrated in the linked thread.

Another consideration which might apply is that some of these automotive switches short the load when OFF.  This can be a factor if your illuminated switch is controlling block power to a siding (see the discussion in the other thread).  But even if controlling accessories, if you have two illuminated ON/OFF switches allowing control from different sides of a large layout...this can also ruin your day!

I would be surprised if you can find an illuminated LED switch that directly works with Accessory 14-16V AC.

I actually looked on line and there are 24 volt ac/dc LED in different colors. I am only going to use the for accessories and because some are 16 or eve 18 volt I figured the 24 volt ones would be best. I was curious as to if anybody else had tried 24 volt led switches or not. Judging by the response here it appears the answer is no.

I have been using 12V auto/boat led on/off switches for over 5 years for sidings (DCS AC Voltage) and so far have not had any issues with them.

Mort

Careful of the cheap ones online.  They may not work as advertised.

Some years ago when I really did not have a clue what I was doing, I purchased these switches for my turntable.   They are rated at 10v.  They are supposed to be LEDs, but if left on for more than a few minutes they get hot because my DCS is pumping 18v through there.  Makes me think maybe they are not LEDs as advertised.

A couple of years ago now only being half clueless, I purchased LED switches rated up to 20v thinking I would eliminate any problems with heat.  The switch works and powers the track but the LED light will not light.  Note the bumper light is lit but the switch on the fascia is not.  I tried every switch in the bag thinking they had bad bulbs.  No dice.

Have Fun!

Ron

If you are using 18 VAC...because the LED is a diode, the half wave value of the voltage (the RMS value) is about 12 volts. Perfect for the 12 vdc LED switches. Then, always put an small inexpensive rectifier (1N4003) in series with the LED to protect it from the reverse of the AC voltage. In the case of the Calterm switch, that would be from EARTH to common (the diode pointing to common).

FWIW, here are two styles of 12V automotive LED switches that go for about 50 cents each on eBay.  Available in 4 LED colors (red, yellow, green, blue).  A bit dimmer operating at 14V or 18V AC with diode (vs. 12V DC) but you almost can't tell the difference.  Neither of these switches "short" Load to Earth when OFF.

For inquiring mind, here are LED current measurements (DC) with 1N4003 diode when AC applied:

Red LED switch: 12V DC: 9.3 mA, 14 - 18V AC: 5.3 - 6.9 mA

Blue LED switch: 12V DC: 8.0 mA, 14 - 18V AC: 4.7 - 6.5 mA

The automotive switches I've seen all use the 3/16" quick-connect, spade, Faston, crimp terminals.  You might end up paying more for the connectors than the switch since you usually have to buy a bag of 50 or whatever!  Or I suppose you could just solder wires to the terminals...