I had been thinking about replacing the E10-screw base bulbs in my switches and controllers for some time, and found these 12V AC/DC bulbs on Amazon. They come in both warm white (which I bought) and cool white. They fit nicely in both the switch motor sockets and in the controllers, and while the color is not as warm as I had hoped, I'm pleased with the result. I have been running most of my switches on 12V anyway instead of the normal 14V because of the heat the incandescent bulbs threw off (except for one actual 022 switch which needs the full 14V to throw completely - the others are 5132/33). The listing for the bulbs is pretty specific about not running these at higher than their rated voltage, although I did try one at 14V. It worked fine and I didn't notice any brightness difference between 12 and 14V. I couldn't replace all the bulbs as some of the motor and controller socket bases were BA9s bayonet-type, and the only 12V equivalent I found on Amazon was the cool-white color - but it's a start. I'm ordering another package of 10 to finish up the controllers and maybe use the rest for lighting around the platform. Time will tell how they hold up, but for now they fit well and look good. They come in other voltages also (3, 6, 12, 24 in total, I believe) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M8NG5Q9
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I did a quick search and found several bayonet base bulbs. This one is for AC/DC 12V -14V and suggests use for Lionel and Marx locomotives (It costs 4 times more, but it may be an exact fit):
For my switches I used LED bulbs from Town and Country. They have 18v rated. I have used the LED bulbs in the switch controllers also. The 18v work at 12v also. I run my switches at 18v.
@VHubbard posted:For my switches I used LED bulbs from Town and Country. They have 18v rated. I have used the LED bulbs in the switch controllers also. The 18v work at 12v also. I run my switches at 18v.
I bought from them as well. Got plenty to spread out the cost of shipping. I may never need to buy bulbs again.
I ended up ordering the bayonet bulbs from Amazon. They are taller than the incandescent bulbs they replaced. What's interesting is the bulbs fit in two of the three switches I have with the bayonet sockets: for an 022 and a 5132 they fit fine. The third switch is a 5133, and it looks like the lamp socket sits up higher in the switch motor than it does in the other two switches. As a result, the plastic lantern doesn't engage with the retainer inside the motor; instead it rests on top of the led bulb. Is this a known variance in the manufacturing of these switches? Is there any fix for it? I'm reluctant to put the incandescent bulb back in this switch as it burned very hot, to the point where they plastic lantern was too hot to touch. I'm surprised it hasn't melted yet, but maybe it would if I left the layout powered up longer. The switches are powered at 14v now, and the incandescent bulb I pulled out is marked for 18v, so I would not have expected it to get so hot. Are the T&C bulbs a better fit?
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I forgot to note these bulbs also (just) fit in the switch controllers under the colored lenses
Here are the Town and Country LED replacement numbers for the post war switches:
022 (prior to 1950) | Remote Control Switch (prior to 1950) | 1447 |
022 (after 1950) | Remote Control Switch (after 1950) | 1445 |
022C | Switch Controller | 432R, 432G OR 432RP , 432GP |
This is a picture of the T&C 1445 WW LED next to the incandescent. The 1447 equivalent is same bulb shape.
The one thing I need to do at times with any brand bayonet LED bulbs is to file the contact tip down. When they are too tall to plug in. .01-.02" Even bulbs need to follow tolerances...
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@wlee posted:I ended up ordering the bayonet bulbs from Amazon. They are taller than the incandescent bulbs they replaced. What's interesting is the bulbs fit in two of the three switches I have with the bayonet sockets: for an 022 and a 5132 they fit fine. The third switch is a 5133, and it looks like the lamp socket sits up higher in the switch motor than it does in the other two switches. As a result, the plastic lantern doesn't engage with the retainer inside the motor; instead it rests on top of the led bulb. Is this a known variance in the manufacturing of these switches? Is there any fix for it? I'm reluctant to put the incandescent bulb back in this switch as it burned very hot, to the point where they plastic lantern was too hot to touch. I'm surprised it hasn't melted yet, but maybe it would if I left the layout powered up longer. The switches are powered at 14v now, and the incandescent bulb I pulled out is marked for 18v, so I would not have expected it to get so hot. Are the T&C bulbs a better fit?
Can you pry the plastic diffuser cap off the led bulb, to leave just the bare led? This would lower its height by 2-3mm and just might get the job done for you.
Rod