Joe I hope this answers your questions

Our clubs new permanent layout is going to be ran off 1 circuit. We have a pole with a box and two circuits in there. One will be unhooked from the plugs and sent to a light switch then off to a number of other boxes with all of the transformers and other associated equipment. This will allow us to kill the layout and turn it on with our wearing out the plug contacts.

Here’s a few months ago as we started running the high voltage under the layout

(excuse the mess)

unfortunately we have yet to finish hooking this to the incoming power to confirm it works with no problem

But even with this or the modular layout plugged into a single outlet with a power strip distributing power we have had no issues

I use different power strips - my Legacy base is on one strip that is continuously on to recharge the Cab2 batteries. I have transformer, TIU, etc. on a different strip which I rewired to connect to a light switch mounted near my control panel (visible on middle left of pic) which I turn on to fire everything up and shut down after a running session.

The white light switch has a red safety light to show when it is powered on.

I use a couple of staggered outlet power strips. One plugged into the other. Turn one on and then the other.

RF remote control.

I have this remote, I actually have four of them scattered around the layout.  The MASTER controls the whole layout, and the four individual ones handle each PH180 transformer.

Remote Control Transmitter.

Remote control receivers.

I also have a receiver slaved to the master that lights a bulb in a wall outlet to alert me when the layout power is on.

Layout Power Pilot Light.

I use numerous electrical light switches located on the end of my layout to turn power on and off to various transformers and accessory banks.  Works great!

Ron

I hope all of you using power strips, are using good quality, UL approved, American made, power strips. This is not the place to skimp on costs.

I think we already got the lecture on power strips Mark.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

RF remote control.

I have this remote, I actually have four of them scattered around the layout.  The MASTER controls the whole layout, and the four individual ones handle each PH180 transformer.

Remote Control Transmitter.

I figured that was to alert your wife.

When I remodeled my garage into a train room, I had all of the wall outlets rewired via a light switch just inside the doorway that turns all of the outlets on or off. I do make a concerted effort not to leave anything turned on but its nice to know I have a backup kill switch that cuts off all of the power, just in case I forget something. I have light strips behind the top shelf of my displays on each end of the room, plugged into wall outlets, and a quick peak into the room at closing time tells me if that wall switch needs to be flipped or not as part of my nighttime lock -up routine.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

RF remote control.

I have this remote, I actually have four of them scattered around the layout.  The MASTER controls the whole layout, and the four individual ones handle each PH180 transformer.

Remote Control Transmitter.

Remote control receivers.

I also have a receiver slaved to the master that lights a bulb in a wall outlet to alert me when the layout power is on.

Layout Power Pilot Light.

I had thought about this John, however, had a concern. I had our holiday layout set up this way, and things would come on without using remote. Sometimes when we were in bed. Therefore, we would unplug everything if we were leaving the house.

All of my train layout and train room lights are on a porch light circuit.   Turn out what used to be the porch lights and the trains, lights, outlet strips and music all go off.  The workbench has a similar single master switch, but it is also fused and has a GFI.

Got all my plugs in a power strip connected to a smart plug in which is controlled by Alexa…..layout goes on and off like magic when I voice command it…..works well and and is a crowd pleaser.

-Pete

When I had the train room built, these two floor outlets (one is poking out behind the ladder) are turned on/off from a wall switch as I leave the room.

Lots of good ideas here, and definitely agree that powering everything off when not in use is a good idea, but also wanted to share my experience.

A few years ago, we had either a lightning strike or power surge (I don't know which).  It fried a TV, cable box, garbage disposal, and the electronics in my SawStop table saw.  The damage wasn't enough to file an insurance claim, but it was an expensive hassle (I think the SawStop was designed by Houdini).  Fortunately, my transformers were not plugged into the wall, which probably saved them.  I now also unplug my major power tools when they are not in use.

I'm in favor of completely disconnecting any items that are not frequently used.  My transformers and control systems are always unplugged from the wall outlet before I leave the basement.

@Trainlover160 posted:

I had thought about this John, however, had a concern. I had our holiday layout set up this way, and things would come on without using remote. Sometimes when we were in bed. Therefore, we would unplug everything if we were leaving the house.

I don't see that as a significant problem with these.  The remotes are slaved to the transmitter by a unique code for each receiver, kinda' like Ethernet boards.  No two remotes have the same code.  So, I just cleared the transmitter of any previous codes and then paired them according to my desires.  Not knowing what make/model of remote control you used, I can't comment on it's security.  I know I have seen these systems that were a lot more flaky, that was one of the things I looked at when evaluating my choice.

Of course, in the rare instance that something could trigger the layout power, it would first have to trigger the master and then separately one of the transformer remotes as well.  The individual track power remotes are all powered only when the master remote has turned on layout power.

Also, in that extremely rare instance, I have faith that turning on my layout isn't going to start a fire, I've turned it on a ton of times with no flames.  No engines or rolling stock is normally on the tracks, so there won't be any runaway and derailment to potentially cause a short.

Nothing is perfect, that that's way down the list of things I think about when I think of electrical safety...  I suspect the extension cords or the computers that get left on 24/7 are a lot more likely to be a source of problems than my train layout.

Same set up for me as a few mentioned above. Plugs to a power strip and have a remote kill switch. Same brand that GRJ has. I keep that remote handy in my pocket when I'm running trains.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I don't see that as a significant problem with these.  The remotes are slaved to the transmitter by a unique code for each receiver, kinda' like Ethernet boards.  No two remotes have the same code.  So, I just cleared the transmitter of any previous codes and then paired them according to my desires.  Not knowing what make/model of remote control you used, I can't comment on it's security.  I know I have seen these systems that were a lot more flaky, that was one of the things I looked at when evaluating my choice.

Of course, in the rare instance that something could trigger the layout power, it would first have to trigger the master and then separately one of the transformer remotes as well.  The individual track power remotes are all powered only when the master remote has turned on layout power.

Also, in that extremely rare instance, I have faith that turning on my layout isn't going to start a fire, I've turned it on a ton of times with no flames.  No engines or rolling stock is normally on the tracks, so there won't be any runaway and derailment to potentially cause a short.

Nothing is perfect, that that's way down the list of things I think about when I think of electrical safety...  I suspect the extension cords or the computers that get left on 24/7 are a lot more likely to be a source of problems than my train layout.

Thanks John, I will look at see. Do you also repair tinplate with signal sounds? I have the red Lionel Christmas set. Chuffing is intermittent. I tried cleaning track, wheels,pickup rollers,etc.,with no improvement. Thinking it may Be the pickup sWitch connected to pickup roller on the tender.

Joe Gozzo

I used a 2 gang electrical box, wired a male plug going into it, using a 12 gauge heavy duty 10 foot extension cord to provide power from my wall outlet GFI Receptacle. The male plug is wired to a single pole light switch and then a duplex outlet. My surge protection multi outlet strip is plugged into one receptacle on the outlet that everything (transformers, wall warts, rope lights on the underside of the layout to see when I have to do something under there) etc, on the layout is plugged into, and I have a LED Night Light with the light sensor covered over with black electrical tape plugged into the other half of the duplex receptacle to show whenever the switch is on and power is going to the layout. Simple but effective.

I have one small key switch that is mounted on my control panel.  When I leave the train room I turn it off, usually leave the key and that shuts off 6- 20 amp feeds to my panel.  The only thing live is one small 12 volt transformer that fires the contactors.  Sort of like a door bell transformer.

Have used that for like 16 years with no problems.  I like that I can be in the middle of some electrical work and can shut down and take the key out.    JP

I have a couple different ways to shut down power to each mainline/ yard area that is powered by a separate transformer.  These are for derailments and other shorts.

However, when I leave my basement train room I have two 20 amp switches and one 15 amp switch near the stairs that turn off all power to the layout. No stray electrons causing mischief when I am not down there.

My mind is reading all this, and I am conjuring up something with 24VDC, industrial red mushroom emergency stop buttons, some power relays, and maybe a PLC to stagger/stage powering back up.

At work it is hit the red button then ask questions.

Electrical power for our layouts are of the utmost importance, one, enough power to operate our track plan, (all of the Transformers) power for all the overhead lighting, also track lighting, TV’s, heating our room, and everything meeting our electrical codes. We pulled a 60Amp breaker box off of the main 200amp main. This powers the layout and track wiring, and outlets powering the villages, accessories, we have the ground fault breakers in case of bad weather with thunder and lightning, we are hopefully in good shape. We have several receptacles under the layout withUL approved power strips. There are 5 switches that turn on the layout, and to turn on the track power, we use Lionel’s 180 watt bricks, hooked to TPC’s and PowerMasters as the layout is Legacy controlled. Yes, we can switch from TMCC/Legacy to Conventional control, but running the newest and greatest is so much more fun. One thing for sure, we’ve made provisions if there is a derailment, track power goes out Fast. Our basement is where the train room is located in our home and it’s heated and cooled by Trane, and it’s under the home with no garage attached, a clean room, designed by my wife, a true gift. If your ever in Tennessee, come see me. We will run trains and have a lot of fun. Great Question. Happy Railroading Everyone

I have only one   heavy commercial garage door switch  (120volt) for my layout .however  some of you guys might need a few more.. but having it at your control panel and using it before a run or after  is  really nice , when guests come over they really comment on it..  daniel