Lighting for structures--?

I use Model Power bulbs for interiors, because it is what is available at my local shop.

 

I used to use Walthers Cornerstone exterior wall mounted lights, until the price shot from $2.50 to $6.35 each. I probably have a hundred of these on my layout.

 

I went to using Microtronics exterior lights with shades. Five for $13.45 - still pricey.

 

Brad,

I use grain of wheat bulbs from Cir-Kit Concepts with Plastruct light fixtures and tubing for the conduit. I buy bulbs that have 18-inch leads to reduce the amount of splicing. I use a bending jig from Micro-Mark to make the light poles using 3/32-inch diameter tubing.

 

Alan Graziano

Alan...Would you possibly consider showing us a step by step procedure of this process including part numbers and pictures of the materials as well the bending jig from Micro-Mark? I know I sure would be interested in assembling my own outdoor lamps and I would think others would be as well. I would think that it is fairly uncomplicated but in my case actually seeing the process, mainly the bending of the tubing and the shape, would help me a lot.

 

Thanks,

Ken

Ken,

I will try to put something together in the next couple of days and post on this thread.

 

Alan Graziano

I would use LEDs,both individually and in strips. They use less power and should not need changing.

 

Dale H

Alan, I think you could do us all a great service by posting your method.  I am considering some lighting from China that is not very expensive, but would certainly endeavor to make my own.  I have some ideas, and am enthusiastic about seeing yours.   

 

 

Bob Severin 

Dale H. 

Could you also, give us novice electricians some advice on the use of LED's? Especially what resistors are needed. Thanks Dave G.

The lighting strips break off in multiples of 3,have an adhesive back and require 12VDC input.

it was addressed in this thread

 

https://ogrforum.com/d...nt/15649413448661249

 

You can also buy individual LEDs and mount them on electrical fish paper.

 

Addressed in this post

 

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowT...=407&categoryId=

 

Various caboose and passenger car lighting posts here

 

www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogCategoryMain?catId=426

 

Dale H

Dale,

I'm by no means an expert with this....I think, under normal circumstances you would be correct (correct me if I am wrong), but if you don't know what the overall total number of LED's you will be running in the end, and you need to be able to expand...then the scenario I had laid out will cover it won't it? At least that is what I had discussed/worked out with the lead guy at my local specialized electronic component supply store (You do it Electronics - Needham, MA.)

 

Nick B. 

Nick

 

It certainly works to put all LEDs in parallel with individual resistors. In some applications however it is a waste of power as it is consumed by the resistor instead of the LEDs which emit light. 

 

The LED strips are prewired in series of 3, for 12 volts input.  For individual LEDs ,if your input was 12 volts you could group them in 3s. If you wanted say 4 you could make a group of 3 in series,then parallel 1.  If your input was 18 volts you could group LEDs in 5s. The LED calculator linked will do the schematic for you.  Another option is CL2 N3 chips which take place of the resistor and eliminates calculations, described in the Caboose lighting circuit linked on my blog. 

 

Christmas tree LEDs are wired in series of maybe 35. This would be impractical if each LED was wired in parallel with 120 volts input. Go to the calculator linked before. Here is an extreme example of saving wattage used. 

 

Input 120 volts

 

3.2 volts forward drop

 

20 ma

 

35 LEDs, then insert 1 LED and calculate each

 

Dale H

Ken,

Here goes. You can see the following pictures showing how I make my light poles. I use the same plan when I install these lights on buildings over doors.

The first picture shows the materials required along with glue. The CA glue and accelerator are also from Plastruct.

The second picture shows the light fixture after I drilled out the existing hole to 3/32-inch diameter to accept the tubing. I also bore out the other end of the hole under the fixture to 1/8-inches to allow the light to recess into the fixture.

The third picture shows the bending jig being used. You can bend the pole at any angle to suit the application. In this case, I bent the pole until it touched the fixture and then glued with CA and the accelerator. Note that you must thread the light through the fixture before bending or painting. The paint changes the composition of the pipe and causes the pipe to crack if it is bent after painting. Mask off the light and paint the fixture if desired as your last step. Test the light with a 9 volt battery prior to painting and bending to make sure the bulb is good. The lights I use are 12 volt and the leads are 18 inches long.

Alan Graziano

Alan, I assume, and that normally gets me in trouble, that the tubing is the Plastistruct plastic tubing? Or is it metal tubing? I would think that the plastic tubing would break before bending 180 degrees. Maybe a lot of patience is necessary ?

Thanks for your knowledge and expertise and I am looking forward to your answers.

I'm no lighting expert but for led's you might want to try

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/jjtrains.html

very affordable and easy for the non electronic led lighting novice.

Roger,

I am using Plastuct tubing. It is not metal. It bends fine as long as you do not paint it first. The hardest part is running the thin lead wires on the light through the fixture and the tubing. Sometimes, I do not attach the fixture and tube together until I have run the wire through each one individualy. The only thing you have to watch when you do it this way is making sure you do not get glue on the wires. They are so thin that the glue will melt them.

Maybe LED lighting is the way to go. I never used them and I have probably installed at least 1000 lights this way.

 

Alan Graziano

Alan....thank you very much for taking the time to do this for me. Like Roger I was wondering about the tubing. I don't have much train/hobby money so I have avoided putting lights in most of my layout features. What I like about this is that one can create non operating light fixtures for adding details very affordable or add the light bulb or led economically as well. Thanks again Alan! Ken

I have over 80 lighted buildings plus 20 street lights. Incandescent lighting would need over 12 amps and much more power than my trains. So I converted about 75 percent to 3 volt LEDs. Over 200 so far powered in blocks by four Powerline adjustable dc power plugs from Batteries Plus. They have a 3 volt position and 1. 3 Amp output. Radio Shack has 3 volt plugs with only 1 amp rating. I have up to 60 LEDs on each plug. Takes the guess work out of resistors and diodes.

 

My question is what small plugs do some use to disconnect the buildings for dusting and maintenance?

BradA,

 

I'm using Modelpower Lights as well for most structures.  There is a 20 pack available.  These are peel-and-stick lights with 12" leads.

 

George

Bob, How do you connect all the led's to your to the small 1 amp plug in power pack?

Do you use terminal strips of just heat shrink tube or other 200 lights is alot of wire into a small 1amp power supply? Do you have any pictures of this setup?

I spent a half hour trying to add photos and gave up. Can't get past "add attachment"

I love/hate computers.

 

So I'll try verbally.

 

The Powermaster is a black plug that plugs into your powerstrip under the table. It has a slider switch to adjust from 3V to 12V DC output. Not sure how many LEDs they can handle, but I've limited my four to 60 with no problems.  I super glued mine at 3V setting to be safe. My Ace Hardware just began to stock them for only $19. I use a special powerstrip from Lowes (or Builders Square) with wide spacing for all my various plugs. The two Powermaster output wires from are connected to a small telephone wire type bus from Radio Shack. From there, I distribute the 3V DC power to all buildings and street lights using double stranded 22 or 24  gauge wire.

 

It is easy to replace the small white MTH building bulbs with LEDs. Just remove the bulb from the white socket and insert a flat head LED. Then bend the tangs. Then reinsert LED into the socket. It is a tight fit. Simply reverse polarity if on  bulbs that don't light. I've done this with about 50 bulbs so far.