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I have disassembled my LIonel 682 engine that I have had since 1954. I can only get the motor to run 1 direction. I applied power directly to the motor bypassing the E unit. I took out the brushes and cleaned them with Deoxit spray. The brushes look good, nice and flat. I also cleaned the rotor surface and it looks good. In the one direction it runs really well. Any ideas for me to try?

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If the wires to the e-unit have been disconnected, to get the motor to run in the opposite direction, the connections to both brushes need to be reversed. By reversing the wires to the brushes, you should get the motor to run in both directions. If it runs properly this way, and after hooking it back up to the e-unit it only runs in one direction, then there is a problem with the e-unit. Get the motor to run properly independently of the e-unit first.

 

Larry

Originally Posted by C W Burfle:

The drive wheels should be magnetic. That is the whole purpose of the magnet.

 

To add to C.W.’s response: and ONLY the drive wheels should be magnetic.  Perhaps a better term would be magnetized.   

 

I happen to have my very similar 681 apart so I checked it to make sure that only the magnet and the drive wheels are magnetized.  Nothing else is magnetized and nothing else will attract a small metal screw.  BTW the amount of magnetism varies among the wheels as it declines the further away a wheel is from the magnet.  For example the wheels on the 1st driver axle from the front are very highly magnetized while the wheels on the 4th driver axle have very little magnetism and would not even support the weight of that small screw.

 

I don’t see any reason why the 682 would be different so just to be sure I took down by 682 from the shelf and without taking it apart the wheels exhibit about the same amount of magnetism as on the 681.

 

HTH,

 

Bill

That's pretty common - check the wiring - are all the wires attached?  If they're all attached properly, the next step is to make sure the lever for the E-unit is in the correct place so the reverse unit cycles - the E-unit can be locked out so the engine only runs in one direction.  Is the engine running forward only, and you don't hear the E-unit cycling (or trying to cycle)?  Slide the lever to the opposite side and see if the reverse unit begins cycling.  Is the engine going through the forward-neutral-(reverse)-neutral-forward-neutral cycle?

 

If moving the lever for the E-unit doesn't pan out, there's a strong likelihood that the problem is one of the following: the E-unit fingers are gummed up, the fingers aren't all making proper contact on the reverse unit's drum, the drum isn't rotating properly, or there's a problem with the drum itself (track voltage left on high, and the plastic distorts or melts a bit from the fingers getting too hot).

 

First suggestion would be to spray some plastic compatible contact cleaner on the drum and finger assemblies.  CRC QD Electrical Grade contact cleaner works well - Home Depot carries it in their electronic supply section, and it's also available online from a number of vendors.  Make sure you get the cleaner that's plastic compatible - the E-unit drum can become damaged if you use a contact cleaner that's meant for metal items only.  Spray the fingers and drum, let it dry (doesn't take too long) and hopefully that works for you.  If not, try one more spray of the contact cleaner and cross your fingers.

 

If those don't do the trick, you're probably going to have to disassemble the reverse unit and replace the fingers and/or the drum.  If you're uncomfortable doing that, PM me - I've been repairing trains for about 25 years and have made E-unit repairs a number of times.

Last edited by MTN

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