Lionel 90 degree crossover, cutting metal strip to allow 2 different loops to run thru it.

I don't see why your plan wouldn't work. However, that track configuration will also need an electrical gap between the two switches to complete the electrical separation.

When I did something similar, I think the metal joining the center rail of the four tracks was a single piece.
Other than that, I don't see why your plan would not work.

C W Burfle posted:

When I did something similar, I think the metal joining the center rail of the four tracks was a single piece.
Other than that, I don't see why your plan would not work.

Yeah, it's an 027, so there is a single plate under there. I did some of these years ago, though they weren't secured to a layout. The plate will need to have two opposing legs cut, and a piece of insulated wire soldered form a bridge.

I would first find an equivalent crossover, or a photo of one, to determine if, indeed, the hot connections are where your little track gang intends to make their excavation.  You don't want them to be unpleasantly surprised to find that there is some other scheme under there.  It may not be true about the exact crossing that you have, but I seem to recall that there is a crossing out there that has a sort of "diamond" shaped copper or brass sheet metal piece interconnecting the 4 hot rails, and it's bigger than the small square of plastic in the middle.

This may sound crazy, but maybe you should drill UP rather than DOWN. A 4" hole saw driven upwards through the bottom of the table would provide you an access port that could give you a peek. Start with the pilot bit in its usual location, for the first half-inch or so, and then once you have a groove for the saw to follow, remove the pilot bit so you don't drill through the plastic center, and continue upward.

I kind of like how it looks now. Why remove anything? Sometimes we can over think things.

"I kind of like how it looks now. Why remove anything? Sometimes we can over think things."

If I may presume to answer for the OP, it's not about how nice it looks, which it certainly does. Read why he wants to do it. The problem is electrical, not aesthetic. 

This is probably what the back of your crossing looks like.  An O27 crossing is not as easy to seperate as an O gauge crossing. But it looks like what you propose would work. You need to becareful when reinstalling the plastic center part. It is designed to allow the accessory shoe to cross without snagging it.

So, actually, you could make two plunge cuts with a Dremel with a cut-off blade, and cut through two opposite sides of the metal plate without needing to remove the center plastic piece.  No need to solder any wires on the crossing itself, since both sets of center rails within the crossing get their power from the adjacent center rails of the tangent tracks.  Just to ensure continuity you could run a jumper from the two center rails that have been cut off from the main metal plate, but that can be done a few inches away on the tangents.

Thank you ALL for your great advice and replies.  David Johnston showed me the underside of the crossover and now I know what I want to do!!!!!  The center piece stays and I will plunge cut two opposite sides as David Bloom suggests and that should give me what I want.  The wiring is no problem for me.  I can solder the jumpers and most of the other track  in the circle I want to cut has already had the center rails cut so it will be an independent run.  DPDT switches have been installed in the control panels to either let it run an independent train or couple it to the entire lower level system.

I again thank you all for your quick responses and great input and I can consider this post closed.  Thanks again.  Now I got work to do after this holiday is over.

Larry

gg1man posted:

I kind of like how it looks now. Why remove anything? Sometimes we can over think things.

Sorry gg1man when I get an idea I like I follow thru with it.  I have 15 engines sitting on the track in hidden areas and now I can get one more running on its own line.  Since I started this back in the early 80's it has been a blast to do this layout.  I have no intention of going to command control because I think in a few years it will be coming down.  It's getting harder and harder to work on it because of an arthritis problem in my hands.  I think if I get a chance I will post a link to a video we just took of the entire layout to show what can be done with 0-27 track and some scenery.

Arthur P. Bloom posted:

I would first find an equivalent crossover, or a photo of one, to determine if, indeed, the hot connections are where your little track gang intends to make their excavation.  You don't want them to be unpleasantly surprised to find that there is some other scheme under there.  It may not be true about the exact crossing that you have, but I seem to recall that there is a crossing out there that has a sort of "diamond" shaped copper or brass sheet metal piece interconnecting the 4 hot rails, and it's bigger than the small square of plastic in the middle.

This may sound crazy, but maybe you should drill UP rather than DOWN. A 4" hole saw driven upwards through the bottom of the table would provide you an access port that could give you a peek. Start with the pilot bit in its usual location, for the first half-inch or so, and then once you have a groove for the saw to follow, remove the pilot bit so you don't drill through the plastic center, and continue upward.

 

You had me going on that drill up idea Arthur and I did AND there was a steel cover that covered the whole bottom of the crossover.  I scrapped that idea but it would have been a great one if only the connecting plate was there.  Problem is solve thanks the picture and advice given to me by ALL.