Lionel Fastrack Wiring

Yes. I soldered 14 GA feeders directly to the fastrack tabs.

My feeders are about every 10' of track length. No voltage drops anywhere.

It was fast and easy. All I used was an inexpensive Weller 25w iron.

Thanks RickO.  So I can run set of power wires to track, as long as I use jumper wires.  Thank you for the info.   

what about using .110 spade connectors.i made them for my transformer connection.basically homemade fastrack terminal track.if you are on facebook  check out lionel fastrack group.doug granger made a great video on making connections and bus wiring.

It's better to use a wire "bus" that follows the tracks (under bench, under roadbed, etc. and attach feed/drops between track and bus.  Normally a bus is slightly heavier than drops.

A heavy wire delivers amps better; and for us, there won't be a "too big" issue other than flexing or fitting somewhere etc (or maybe cost )  Large gauge wire will stay cooler and is less likely to burn/melt than a smaller wire.  (my "oversized" wire can take a direct short for a looong time before it gets warm, let alone get hot enough to melt. The breakers and fuses will always go first here.)   

note: transformer breaker design protects the transformer, not external wiring.  It does afford some protection, but it is coincidence. If the wire can't handle all the amps possibly fed,e asily, it should be fused (or second  breaker)

 Wire does a much better job delivering amps than track does. So a bus will do better than jumping track to track. 

  Make sure there is one feed for each turnout exit too. You want to run power around turnouts rather than pass the bulk of the power thru a turnout. All the little connections are points of resistance. Passing a little power isn't a big deal as the whole trains power draw isn't all  forced thru those connections. (two turnouts with track between can share one feed.)

AWG wire charts online will tell you how big a wire you need at X feet. (amps are the concern, ignore voltage other than making sure yours is lower than example. Usually the charts are for much higher voltage than we use, that's fine.

Choose bus wire to handle the max transformer amp output. Drops can be lighter and sized close to but over AWG for bus to track, but add the rail length to next drop to account for the rail resistance.

Also, the outer rails have twice as metal to deliver power than the center rail. So pay closer attention to the center rail power delivery overall. 

You can hide power wire in a C-channel length of plastic/aluminum/ pvc pipe,l conduit, automotive loom covers,etc. if you don't want it exposed to view.  

Thanks Adriatic. I Just want to make sure I understand what your post stated, but a “bus” wire is basically a pair of 14 or 12 gauge wire the will run underneath the tracks and will be attached directly to the track terminals at intervals of approximately 8’? I am sorry to ask but I am just getting back into the hobby and want to avoid any costly mistakes.  

Hello all

I could use some advise.

First , givens of my layout: 

8 X12, all fastrack

3 separate parallel loops. (subway layout)

currently 6 manual 036 switches, more to be added later.

currently using a Z1000

Will  add DCS.

I did set up DCS in a basic manner to see if it works and gain some familiarity with the remote. I accomplished that. 

Issue I am experiencing is the Z1000 tripping . (breaker engages).  At this time I have only one of the t3 tracks powered up. The train does power up, then after a few seconds, @30, the circuit breaker trip in the Z1000. I have tried both Proto Sound power cars and conventional, same issue.

What I have done: cleaned the track; checked all track properly connected; wires from track to the Z1000 are secure.  Being somewhat of an electrical novice, I am not sure what else it could be. I did create drops @every 8-10 feet in anticipation of the wiring for the DCS. I checked those connections and they are secure, even made sure of the positive and ground are in the proper positions. 

Any assistance / advise is greatly appreciated !

Thank you all in advance !  

I believe the Z1000 is rated at 6 amps. Assuming the Z1000 is operating correctly, something is generating 6 amps or more of current that trips the breaker.

You say you are only running one loop and one engine, either command and/or conventional, which should not be enough to trip the breaker. I would start by re-checking all your track connections one last time and use a multi-meter to verify no shorts or grounds and good connectivity.

If that checks out, I would set up a separate test track of one or two sections of track and hook up the Z1000 to just that section with an engine on it and see what happens. If it trips, I would try a different engine and see what happens. 

If all that checks out, I would substitute a different transformer and see what happens.

Thank you Richie !!!

Try it without anything on the track. 

Richie and John

Thank you again for your responses.  I did change transformers and it shorted out again. Then I checked every track to ensure the connections were tight; they were. I took everything off the tracks and powered it up. I did hear a humming sound, and that was not good. I took the multi meter I have and listened to where the humming was loud. Sure enough after verifying with the meter I checked the wire drops and the  ends were touching ! They are not connected to the blocks at this time (since I am starting to add DCS, to gain some familiarity then use star wiring technique. ). I placed an engine on the track and away it went ! 

Over time I will become better electronically, but I do appreciate your suggestions ! 

Thanks again ! 

Glad you solved it