Lionel Operating Hobby Shop, Train Not Running, Any Suggestion Appreciated.

The Lionel support documents offer a detailed wiring diagram.

The replacement parts list does not offer a photo of the gear box(unavailable) or the belts.

Call Lionel to see what they say about a repair before you dig in. Some parts come from North Lima Trainworks. You could email them about a repair.

Lionel may pleasantly surprise you. That's a nice accessory.

Moonman, you are so right, this accessory is the highlight of my layout.  I have it near the front, so my grandkids can look inside.  I used a small screwdriver, and gave the engine a slight push, it tryed to go a little bit, as if the gears running the belt are moving.  Where do you get Lionel Support documents?  From a web site?

Thanks,

Jim H.

I apologize for ***..uming that you would know.

Visit www.lionel.com > then select the Customer Services tab > under the train you will see links to find documents, look up replacement parts. The section under has additional links. Search with your part number or name of the item.

Check it out and you'll get used to it.

Here's the result of a Service Document search(from the topic under the train) using 6-32998

Here's Replacement Parts

Thanks Dale,   Today I took a small screwdriver and gave the engine a slight push.  The rubber band moved the train about a half inch.  I think the band is got too loose, or has come off a roller or whatever makes it move.  Motor must be running, or it would not have moved.  There are two screws on the bottom that look like will make the entire train circle lift up from the bottom, maybe I could see then what's up.

Really appreciate your reply,

Jim H.

I have the earlier version and the belt on one broke and the other stretched. The challenge was finding belts to work. Lionel when needing to replace about a couple of years ago did not have them so Mike and crew at service center came up with a solution and found belts at a machinery supply store. The key is there are two belts that operate the layouts. The belts must have the right amount of tension to allow the pulleys to move correctly or if too tight will bind and eventually burn out the motor. After the belts were replaced on mine a while back its worked fine. Iam not sure but the latest Cowen Hobby Shop version could be an update in the design and those belts and the disc for the middle RR are available from the Lionel Service Center, the earlier two are not.

Jim did you ever get the trains moving again?

I am experiencing the same issue with my Midtown version of the operating Hobby Shop.

Thanks

George

Hello George,  Based on the other post's, I think we just have a Lionel lemon of an accessory.  Very sad, as this was a great attraction on my layout.  After I removed from layout to examine it, I never did try to repair it, as I am "all thumbs" trying to do small repairs.  I put the Hobby Shop on a display shelf.  I do believe it is a belt problem, as my motor is running.  I am selling at a train show in a few weeks, I may put this on the table, and if it sells, I can up-grade to a newer model.

If you can fix yours, please reply.

Thanks,   Jimo

Jim, thank you for the update on your Hobby Shop.  I too am all thumbs when it comes to things mechanical.

Mine is at my LHS where I purchased it new this year.  They are trying to come up with a solution to repair it, but no luck so far.

Maybe someone here on the board here would be willing to come to our rescue to repair these lemons.   Doesn't hurt to ask.

George

Russell Industries (http://russellind.com/EVG/main.htm) sells a  large variety of belts used to repair VCRs, turntables etc. Where I work part time, we carry their line.  You need to know the belt circumference, width and thickness of an unstretched belt, and if it is round, square or flat shaped.  Sometimes these belts can replace broken train ones like Noma talking station units, and just might have one for these hobby shop repairs.

May need to call Russell to see who is closest stocking distributor or can order for you.

Believe it or not, but a good quality rubber band will work as a belt replacement.  I had one of my "layouts" quit years ago.  Took the whole thing apart to discover the problem.  Found a correctly sized rubber band, put it in and the layout has worked fine ever since.

Besides finding the correct size, the rubber compound should be specific for drive belts. The Russell belts in Sam's link would be the preferred ones. I suspect the ones Mike R found are also correct. Latex rubber bands will work for a while but will break down over time. Other compounds like nitrile (common O rings) also won't last long if stretched.

I don't have a Hobby shop but have worked on the Junk Yard accessory which works similarly with belts and also has diodes that Dale mentioned that can go bad. 

If the motor is turning its likely just a drive belt problem. Remove the screws on the underside and check the belts. Its not a big deal. Try a rubber band and if it starts to work then order some belts from Lionel. 

Pete

Thanks everyone for the advice.

In my case, I don't know if my hobby shop issue is mechanical (belt) or electrical.

I will try and contact the owner of my LHS and show him this link and hopefully he can figure something out.

Thanks

George

PS Jim if I hear anything I will advise

So far I have reached out to the owner of my LHS looking for a solution to my Hobby shop problem asking that he reach out to the members on this forum for a solution.  He agreed that would probably be the best route, but I have not heard back from him as of yet.

Will update as soon as I hear anything.

George

just my $0.02:

don't be so narrow minded when it comes to "belts" guys, there's a ton of things you can use to fix your problems, as long as it fits on the sheaves on either end and has the right tension and a good enough grip, you're golden! I've used bailing wire to sew broken belts back together when National Oilwell was closed and I couldn't get new ones for a pumping unit. Held for 6 months before they broke again in another spot.

-o rings

-elastic bands

-small gauge insulated wire

-picture wire

-para cord

-string / thread

-fishing line

if you don't have something like that laying around the junk bin (who doesn't have thread or string around???) just zip down to the corner hardware store and find something that'll work!

EDIT: ALSO! if your LHS sells Wilesco stationary steam stuff, they'll likely have the little metal belts. these are great as they're actually a spring with one end slightly tapered that fits into the other. They'll always keep just the right amount of tension and if this Lionel hobby store has brass bushings around the shafts, or if the top and bottom of the shafts are secured well, then you won't have any issues with something that's a tad on the tight side.

Which belt are we talking about? The belt that has the trains on them is available from Lionel. If it is the belt in the gearbox, I'll bet they are available from Lionel, as they have several belts for accessory gearboxes available.

Chuck the hobby shop thru the years had two designs, the last one Cowens hobby shop belts are available because the Train is on the belt not a belt driving the Train mechanism. Its the earlier design that has parts shortage.

Chuck:

I sent you a private email on this

G

Thanks so much, Chuck, I will check my email.  The train that is not running is the one on the left corner of the Hobby Shop.  The other ones are working fine.  I have not had time to remove the bottom and look around.  

There is a large train show in Asheville, NC on October 11th and 12th, near the Asheville Airport.  I am busy getting trains packed for the show.

Jim

Jim, you are welcome to send me yours and I can take a crack at it. If I can't repair yours, no charge.

Chuck

www.Only3Rail.com

UPDATE

My LHS came through for me and repaired my Hobby Shop!!!

Turned out to bean electrical issue-Diode trio in the switch circuit.

Will keep in mind the the belt solutions for future reference, justin case.

One grandson and grandpa are now happy!!!!

George

WOW George,  that's great to get your Hobby Shop back in business.  I am sure you and your Grandson are very happy.  

Thank You and the other forum members for all their suggestions.

As I have decided not to start building a layout, my wife would like to sell house, and downsize, as yard work etc is getting to much for this old railroader, so I will be selling the Hobby Shop on eBay.

I am sure the problem with the one train is the belt, as when I give it a push, it moves a little bit around the track. The repair will not be easy and not expensive. 

If any Forum member is interested in this Hobby Shop, please make me a fair offer, which I will consider.  I have been checking completed auctions on eBay.

JimH

Sorry, I had a "Senior Moment" 

I meant to say that the repair WILL be easy and NOT expensive.

I did proof read it but I read right on by the error.

Sorry,

JimH

mrmet,

The diode pack is between the orange wire and blue wire connecting to the On\Off switch fire hydrant. Most likely in a shrink tube.

Yours sounds like a board component failed. Take a good look at the capacitor. Is it bulging or has it leaked?

Can you post a close up photo of the board?

It may be better to send it out. Contact Chuck Sartor (info above) or Seth at Trainz in Ga.

Look at the links Moonman posted earlier in the thread.  It shows a wiring diagram showing the 3-diodes assembly. The replacement parts link has the following picture of the PCB to insure everyone's on the same page...

This is the PCB in my version of the Hobby Shop. The smoke residue is in the corner where the capacitor is. I cleaned some of it away but you can see it clearly on the plastic wall of the shop.

Not sure if you can see it in the picture, but the visible end of the capacitor is bulging out slightly. It is not perfectly flat. Would this capacitor have cause the smoking?

It looks to me like resistor R1 is the culprit. The cap wouldn't have got that hot, but is does look like it is ready to burst. I would replace that.

 There are 2 different circuit boards for the Hobby Shops, Yours is the 'less complex' version with fewer parts, but the replacement board costs twice as much as the other.

When you look at the back side of the board resistor R4 is gone. I looks like the pins are left but the resistor is burned off.

That back of that board looks like it took a quite a surge. Good catch Nelson, burned off R4.

mrmet-do you recall anything that occurred that would have sent a voltage spike or a direct short to the shop?

A new board would be the best way to with a thorough electrical check of the rest of the components. The time for a component level repair will far exceed the cost of a board replacement and check.

Anyway, it's your hobby shop. Good luck.

It appears R3 is also missing. I see two diodes. One is the cylindrical one one the top and the other marked D2 is on the circuit side. A few components don't seem to have any visible markings. As has been pointed out it you would need a good board to see what the missing components are and if the ones present are still good.

It would be a simple repair if someone had the schematic and parts on hand.

Pete

It might be this board is used in several accessories so some components are/are not loaded.  If the space is vacant but there are leads there then the component needs replacing, but if space has vacant unsoldered holes then that component(s) was never loaded for some reason.

Just a thought.

My grandson had turned on the shop without my knowledge and I did not realize it until I saw the smoke. I did notice once before that all three layouts would not move but then they started working again so I did not open it up to see why.

I bought the shop new from "Ebay". I cannot say for sure that it was not tampered with. When I saw the back of the circuit board I was a bit surprised at how it looked. But believing that I purchased new I thought this is how it came.

I did find staining from the smoke on the yellow plastic wall of the shop and the corner of the board but cannot see any residue or staining on any of the components on the board.

Since Lionel is not taking orders until August, I would like to try changing out the components.

I should not have a problem with the cap and R1. But R4 is gone and am assuming that without the schematics there is no way to know what to replace it with.

I do have a multimeter.

THANK YOU ALL for all of the great information here. I am learning a lot.

It appears the board has 3 AC-to-DC conversion functions.  1) drive DC motor to run the layouts, 2) blink red crossing lights, 3) supply 12V DC to bulbs for building lights

If you can recall, when the layouts stopped did the other functions work?

Mind that I've never seen one of these but if no one else steps up, here's what I'd do.

1. Test diode D1 to make sure it's behaving as a diode.  If your meter has a "Diode Test" function use that, otherwise measure the resistance both ways (meter leads swapped).

2. Replace the cap.

3. Test the resistance of R1.  If it is anywhere near 15 ohms then it's probably OK and doesn't need changing.

Then I'd try the board again noting if any of the 3 functions work...but immediately stop if no joy.  Ideally, if you have one, use a transformer that has current readout and slowly bring up the voltage. 

In the absence of better info, R4 or the lack of R4 may not be a problem.  If you look carefully R4 and R3 next to it are connected "in parallel" if that means anything to you.  I could read the IC chip number on the top of the board and this circuit is a voltage regulator.  Without descending into techno-babble, it is possible that just R3 is needed.