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Hello, and Happy New Year to all train brethren.

 

I'm thinking about purchasing another old locomotive, and a very early 1946 model 671 has caught my eye. The owner describes it as pulling just as well as a magne-traction engine because it's so heavy. I have very limited train experience with only a 681 and a 682 that I inherited as a kid many years ago, and I'm wondering: what exactly is the deal with magne-traction? Is there a quantifiable difference in pulling power between, say, a 681 and a 671?

 

I should mention that my layout has a bit of a tricky mountain section, whereby the train disappears into the mountain, drops at a 9% grade over the course of about 8 Super-O track sections, makes a brief appearance at the bottom of the mountain, and then climbs a 4 1/2% grade over 10 track sections before exiting the mountain. My 681 and 682 engines can each *just about* pull the consist of tender, 6464 boxcar, 6315 tanker, 6636 hopper, and 6557 caboose up the grade at a minimum of 14v of ZW[R]-supplied power without the wheels slipping. (I can only run the consist in one direction on this layout, naturally.) The 14 volts is optimum, because anything much higher than that causes the train to derail at the 9% drop, though going below 14v causes the wheels to begin slipping at the climb. There's a slight bit of wiggle room, but I basically need to set the transformer between 13 1/2 and 15 volts if I want smooth operation. Should I not even consider a locomotive that isn't equipped with magne-traction for my specific layout?

 

Thanks!

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Magnetraction's main "attraction" was the ability to keep an engine on the track in tight curves.  If you like to run trains at warp speed magnetraction would keep the engine and most of the cars following it on the track.  Without magnetraction mean old Mr. Inertia will roll the train as it rounds the corner. 

 

If you really need additional pulling power for grades rubber traction tires do a much better job than magnetraction.  One warning note, tractions tires can get thrown, magnetraction is "built in".

IMHO, either MagneTraction or traction tires would be very desirable, almost mandatory,  based on experience on my last layout.  It had, like yours, a 4-1/2% grade.  MagneTraction engines had no trouble with it, but plain steel wheels were as good as helpless, except with a very short train.  Had to get a running start (like dad did in the '36 Ford approaching a hill) and spun the wheels all the way up.

Originally Posted by Desert Center CA:

...a very early 1946 model 671 has caught my eye. The owner describes it as pulling just as well as a magne-traction engine because it's so heavy...

It will not pull as well as the 681 or 682.

 

I have a few of the '46 models, and the gearing & speed is good, but there is a lot of wheel slip with a big train.

 

On the other matter, your downgrade speed issue can be addressed by powering that section with an adjustable rheostat Like the Lionel 95 or Lionel 81/Ives 1894 powered from the same transformer lever/control.  This will let you adjust the downhill speed accounting for differences in engines and loads.

 

 

Originally Posted by Desert Center CA:

... some of the guys on this forum said those are only safe disconnected & sitting on a shelf...

There must have been some misunderstanding there - perhaps they were referring to the transformers that were used with them back in the day.  I even use them just sitting on carpeting for block control of trains on the Christmas layout.

 

I would like to see that thread if you can find it.

Rob--
 
Hello. Here's a piece of one of the threads I'm finding that is pertinent. I'd mentioned that I have two of the #81 Lionel rheostats that I wanted to incorporate into my layout so as to lower the voltage at the critical 9% downgrade. Somebody chimed in to say that I should scrap the old rheostats and go with bridge rectifiers...
 
"The bridge rectifiers are a much better solution. They will drop voltage pretty much the same regardless of load. I would not use those old rheostats, which are wire wound resistors, for a lot of reasons."
 
Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:
Originally Posted by Desert Center CA:

... some of the guys on this forum said those are only safe disconnected & sitting on a shelf...

There must have been some misunderstanding there - perhaps they were referring to the transformers that were used with them back in the day.  I even use them just sitting on carpeting for block control of trains on the Christmas layout.

 

I would like to see that thread if you can find it.

 

I'm glad one of those reasons isn't for safety.

 

The rheostat is not a voltage reducing device, which is where the confusion comes in.  It limits current.  It's much easier to adjust on the fly for different trains on downgrades, etc.

 

The diodes are for reducing voltage with predictable and consistent results.  There is a place for this arrangement, but for block control the rheostat is so much easier to deal with.

There is a world of difference between the 681 and 671. Magnatraction was marketed as an improvement and increase in loco pulling power. Lionel was marketing longer trains, particularly the new passenger cars, and the standard loco's of the period just could not handle the longer trains. Unless you don't mind running shorter trains, you may want to reconsider this loco. The rheostats are 100% safe. 

 

Gandy

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:

I'm glad one of those reasons isn't for safety.

 

The rheostat is not a voltage reducing device, which is where the confusion comes in.  It limits current.  It's much easier to adjust on the fly for different trains on downgrades, etc.

 

The diodes are for reducing voltage with predictable and consistent results.  There is a place for this arrangement, but for block control the rheostat is so much easier to deal with.

It is a variable resistor, which if placed in series with the track center rail drops voltage and reduces current.  2 resistors in series.  The resistance of the motor and now the resistance of the Rheostat.  The voltage at that section of track is reduced, as is the total current flowing to the track section with the rheostat.   G

Originally Posted by GGG:

It is a variable resistor, which if placed in series with the track center rail drops voltage and reduces current.  2 resistors in series.  The resistance of the motor and now the resistance of the Rheostat.  The voltage at that section of track is reduced, as is the total current flowing to the track section with the rheostat.   G

Close, but backwards.  Being that it is a variable resistor, which if placed in series with the track center rail, actually limits current which then reduces voltage to the train.

 

You can test this with a VOM and no load on the track section using the rheostat.  You can slide it around all you want, the voltage will remain the same.




quote:




IMHO, the issue with using a resistor, such as a #81 rheostat is that it's effect may not be consistent with different locomotives...

Interestingly, I have that as an advantage with a rheostat. 





 

A couple of my layouts had steep grades, with 031 curves included. I just used the throttle, no resistors, rheostats or diode arrays.

I did use a rheostat, mounted under my control panel, to limit the top speed when my kids were little.

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:
Originally Posted by GGG:

It is a variable resistor, which if placed in series with the track center rail drops voltage and reduces current.  2 resistors in series.  The resistance of the motor and now the resistance of the Rheostat.  The voltage at that section of track is reduced, as is the total current flowing to the track section with the rheostat.   G

Close, but backwards.  Being that it is a variable resistor, which if placed in series with the track center rail, actually limits current which then reduces voltage to the train.

 

You can test this with a VOM and no load on the track section using the rheostat.  You can slide it around all you want, the voltage will remain the same.


Rob, What is the difference?  You originally only stated current limiting which is not a complete answer.  Do you really know which occurs first?  This is just basic electrical theory applied to analyze the circuit.

 

It also demonstrates why diodes also are a better alternative.  The addition of the resistor limits current and drops voltage which means less energy is available for the train motor to do work.  The diodes drop voltage without limiting current available, so while voltage drops, current can rise if needed.  Power= Voltage x Current (P=V*I).  There is also less variability because the wire resistor resistance changes as the wire heats up.  Which changes current flow and voltage drop.  G

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:
Originally Posted by GGG:
You originally only stated current limiting which is not a complete answer.

It is, and I did not change my statement.  The result will be a lower voltage, however, depending on the load.  This is a big difference compared to voltage reduction via a diode array.

How can it be both?  ONLY current limiting but WITH a voltage drop?  If you have 6V source and a 3 ohm motor, the motor drops 6V with 2 amps of current.  When you add a 3 ohm resistor in series the equivalent resistance is 6ohms and the current is limited to 1 amp, but one amp through the 3 ohm resistor drops the voltage to 3Vs.  So the motor only sees 3V and 1 amp for a series circuit.  It is the principle used when dual motor engines are wired in series vice parallel.  Each motor gets half the voltage (from the track) and turns slower.  Parallel wired motors both get the full track voltage and current from the source.

 

Diodes drop voltage but do not present a resistance to current flow.  So the equivalent circuit would only see the 3 ohms though voltage would be dropped .7V  So the motor sees 5.3V but 1.77amps.   5.3V/3ohms.   G

Originally Posted by GGG:
How can it be both?

It's not.  A resistor is a current limiting device.  Period.

 

You are confusing what the device is, with what happens (the result) in a complete circuit with other variables.  Unlike a diode, the voltage drop across a resistor varies with current - no current - no drop.

 

The motor example is very poor, as it does not take into account back EMF, and there is no way to pin down the resistance of a motor without knowing what the load is - motors also are variable resistance(very low stalled, very high @ no load). 

I thank everyone for their train advice, and I apologize for my lack of electronics prowess. How precisely would I go about wiring one of my #81 Lionel rheostats into the system? I have two of the (Super O) plastic bus clips to isolate the steep downgrade section, but I'm not sure how to proceed. It sure would be great to not have to use two different controls to power the track, and as someone mentioned above, I'm always worried that my 2-year-old is going to bump up the voltage on the transformer and cause the trains to get launched off the track at the bottom of the downgrade. Thanks!

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:
Originally Posted by GGG:
How can it be both?

It's not.  A resistor is a current limiting device.  Period.

 

You are confusing what the device is, with what happens (the result) in a complete circuit with other variables.  Unlike a diode, the voltage drop across a resistor varies with current - no current - no drop.

 

The motor example is very poor, as it does not take into account back EMF, and there is no way to pin down the resistance of a motor without knowing what the load is - motors also are variable resistance(very low stalled, very high @ no load). 


Rob, I am not confusing what a resistor is, I just explained what it is doing in the circuit more clearly.  You can't analyze the effect without looking at the whole circuit.

 

And using resistors as voltage dividers is a method in circuit building.  Yes a resistor is a device that opposes the flow of current as the resistance value goes up.

 

DC Can motor is not a poor example.  And while there are lots of different effects for a precise answer a basic analysis can be done using ohms law.  We don't have to get into power factors either for AC.  Some basic assumptions.

 

Use 2 12V light bulbs instead of 2 motors.  Same effect when wiring in parallel versus series.  G

Originally Posted by Desert Center CA:

I thank everyone for their train advice, and I apologize for my lack of electronics prowess. How precisely would I go about wiring one of my #81 Lionel rheostats into the system? I have two of the (Super O) plastic bus clips to isolate the steep downgrade section, but I'm not sure how to proceed. It sure would be great to not have to use two different controls to power the track, and as someone mentioned above, I'm always worried that my 2-year-old is going to bump up the voltage on the transformer and cause the trains to get launched off the track at the bottom of the downgrade. Thanks!

No reason to apologize.  Hopefully it all works out for you.  G

The #81 rheostat would be wired in series with the track.

That means: instead of having both wires going directly from the transformer to the track one wire goes from the transformer to a post on the rheostat, and a new piece of wire goes from the other post on the rheostat to the track terminal. Since you have blocks, the wire to the center rail buss is the one to get the rheostat.

There should still be one wire going directly from the transformer to the track.

 

IMHO, with young children at the controls, a quick acting, manual reset circuit breaker is a very good idea.

 

Last edited by C W Burfle
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