Lionel Rico Station 6-2709

You'll, probably, need a knife and some fine sandpaper to make sure the edges are smooth.  Common model airplane glue should work just fine.  IF you are going to add lights, paint or other details, do it while the building is apart - it is a lot easier that way.  Have fun.

@Danr posted:

You'll, probably, need a knife and some fine sandpaper to make sure the edges are smooth.  Common model airplane glue should work just fine.  IF you are going to add lights, paint or other details, do it while the building is apart - it is a lot easier that way.  Have fun.

Thank you! 🙂

Model glue will work but, personally, I like to use CA glue with a spray accelerator like "Zip Kicker". It gives you some workability  time, but then sets instantaneously when sprayed. A third-party (spouse, significant other, child) that can apply the spray while you hold the parts together can be helpful for parts that are difficult to hold together with one hand while you spray with the other.

IMHO, that process makes the project go faster so you don't have to wait for glue to dry before moving on to the next step, especially if you're "on a roll ". Doesn't mean you should rush, but it gives you the option to move on to the next step right away without having to wait overnight for glue to dry. Make sure to gently wipe off the excess spray right away in case it wants to interact with the painted surface.

Rubber bands and painter's tape to hold pieces together while mocking up or gluing, toothpicks to apply glue, and blocks to keep corners true, along with a clean and neat workspace are also helpful.

I also like to "dry-fit" pieces together before gluing to avoid any potential issues.

@Richie C. posted:

Model glue will work but, personally, I like to use CA glue with a spray accelerator like "Zip Kicker". It gives you some workability  time, but then sets instantaneously when sprayed. A third-party (spouse, significant other, child) that can apply the spray while you hold the parts together can be helpful for parts that are difficult to hold together with one hand while you spray with the other.

IMHO, that process makes the project go faster so you don't have to wait for glue to dry before moving on to the next step, especially if you're "on a roll ". Doesn't mean you should rush, but it gives you the option to move on to the next step right away without having to wait overnight for glue to dry. Make sure to gently wipe off the excess spray right away in case it wants to interact with the painted surface.

Rubber bands and painter's tape to hold pieces together while mocking up or gluing, toothpicks to apply glue, and blocks to keep corners true, along with a clean and neat workspace are also helpful.

I also like to "dry-fit" pieces together before gluing to avoid any potential issues.

Cool, thanks for the info

For large parts model cement for plastic in the tube will give you the best bond. For tiny pieces I use the liquid cement for plastic.

@Jim 1939 posted:

For large parts model cement for plastic in the tube will give you the best bond. For tiny pieces I use the liquid cement for plastic.

Thank you

Liquid cement dries too fast, the tube type gives you time to spread and put together as it melts and welds. Liquid gluing is best used holding the two parts together and then letting the liquid flow into the seam. Hope this helps.

I have seen some of these kitbashed, and they looked grate.

I'd suggest this for glue. It gives you a bit of working time, and the fine applicator can't be beat. It's great for applying just the right amount, and preventing glue overflow/smear, as can happen when using tube plastic glues.

Corey:

In addition to the advice given above some building tips.

To reinforce corner joints consider styrene plastic square rods (3/16 or 1/4 inch your choice) if you use plastic cement or wood if you go with CA. If you have the means you can cut triangles instead of the rods.

If you don't want to use the base you can glue the square rods to the inside bottom and buy conservation board from a Hobby Lobby or equiv in just about any color you want. It is inexpensive and easy to cut.

If the station does not come with lights it would be best to glue in some support beams to hang lights from. There are a lot of lighting schemes you can go with from incandescent to LED. If you have lights on your layout already, best to stick with that scheme.

If possible don't glue on the roof so you can gain access to the interior.

Not knowing how the kit comes in addition to other posts wrt tools especially if you plan on building more kits as a minium I would recommend:
- exacto knives #2 or #11
- a razor saw
- a good pair of sprue cutters
- a file to clean up edges after cutting from the sprue.

Joe

@Joe Fauty posted:

Corey:

In addition to the advice given above some building tips.

To reinforce corner joints consider styrene plastic square rods (3/16 or 1/4 inch your choice) if you use plastic cement or wood if you go with CA. If you have the means you can cut triangles instead of the rods.

If you don't want to use the base you can glue the square rods to the inside bottom and buy conservation board from a Hobby Lobby or equiv in just about any color you want. It is inexpensive and easy to cut.

If the station does not come with lights it would be best to glue in some support beams to hang lights from. There are a lot of lighting schemes you can go with from incandescent to LED. If you have lights on your layout already, best to stick with that scheme.

If possible don't glue on the roof so you can gain access to the interior.

Not knowing how the kit comes in addition to other posts wrt tools especially if you plan on building more kits as a minium I would recommend:
- exacto knives #2 or #11
- a razor saw
- a good pair of sprue cutters
- a file to clean up edges after cutting from the sprue.

Joe

Thank you