LIONEL SIGNAL No. 15 and Marx version quick question about LED

Is that a standard mini screw base...like this?

If so, look here.

http://stores.towncountryhobbies.com/leds/

Yes, thank you

Which Marx signal is it??  Is it the metal one???  Some LED's won't fit the plastic versions, they are a hair too long and will push out the red lens...

Marty

That's an interesting point.  The T&C bulb looks to be a standard LED packaged underneath the original glass globe which you'd think would be a "form and function" fit. 

Whereas here's another screw-in LED with different packaging that appears to be a tad taller.

Stan, the second one won't fit under the switch lantern of 022 switches, I've tried.

So in the first one is the globe vacuum-sealed to protect the burning LED filament?

No. LEDs dont burn, they emit. And dont need any more protection than a diode. The red globe is basically a red filter.

Oh sorry...didn't spot your tongue in the cheek��

The second one is made to look like a #47 radio dial light. I'm guessing that you could grind the top off the plastic bulb if its plastic.

Would this one fit in the places that the one's in Stan's second picture would not? Will have to check, but I think this is what I have been using in my Lionel die-cast bumpers.

Dear Marty

It is the MARX #421 VINTAGE TWIN LIGHT RAILROAD CROSSING FLASHER SIGNAL.

Everyone else it is the Lionel 153.

What I am trying to do is LED on a DC circuit. Do the above LED work on DC or AC current?

The led's pictured run off ac current...I use a lot of the inverted types that are in the last picture...These will also push out the red lens, You might want to go with the metal version of this flasher...

Marty

Dear Marty

Thanks.

I saw somewhere a source for the screw in base of the light bulb on the my travel on the internet.  Does anyone have something like that handy?

Here's socket...

MgAAOxykVNRxVPU">http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pc-L...8:gMgAAOxykVNRxVPU

Here's the bulb base...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/E10-Sc...d0BV6Pxk&vxp=mtr

Dear cjack

Perfect thank you. Would this fit the Lionel and Marx? Or is another size that I would need for the Lionel or Marx?

I don't know the accessories, but if the bulbs have this base, then these are what will fit. It's called an E10 mini screw base which is the one on all the bulbs that have been discussed.

Dear cjack

I am new at this I would like to thank you and everyone for their replies and guidance.

Thanks for the thanks. I like to help and learn a lot in the process.

Kris, so in spite of the off-the-shelf choices, are you proposing to roll-your-own LEDs using the E10 screw base?  Is this because you want to run them at 5V (DC) and the off-the-shelf ones all apparently require 12V (or more)?

If it's a question of 5V vs. 12V, it may be easier to alter the driving circuit to supply alternating 12V (or more) and use off-the-shelf bulbs.

Dear Stan

I contacted cjack vendor directly and they stated that the it was for AC only. 

Stan I did not catch your vendor name or item number.

If above can run on DC I would like to know the vendor details.

The vender can only read the spec to you. They cannot answer a question on a variation of the spec sheet. I can't think of anything to prevent dc from lighting an LED. There may be some unthought of reason, but I generally buy one if there is a question like this and test it. True it costs money, but it's the best way to learn.

http://lights4models.com/index...-screw-base-led.html

This style (with the globe) seem to be 18V but no mention of AC or DC.

Dear cjack

I like your out of the box thinking. So have you used it on a 5 VDC circuit or 12 VDC and what where your findings? Are your happy with the illumination in the application that you used it for?

I'm guessing a lot about what's inside the bulb, but I would guess 12 vdc would be just right for the probably 18 vac bulbs.

I have used 18 vac on 12 vdc LED lights which is just about right electrically. 

Dear Stan

Used you suggested on the other thread I should use replacement led to light the circuit instead of rebuilding the crossing lights. I am trying to find a 5VDC red led to work in the existing socket. Here is a copy of the wring diagram.

The bulbs I posted above were 18 volts and either AC or DC. The vendor stated that in their description of the bulbs. They had E-5, E-10 and the same in bayonet style. Unfortunately when I went to their website after my previous post, they seem to be gone and so does the website? I was going to order some more.

FWIW, in case it is just a glitch the missing website was TrainAidsA.com. They had very good pricing (maybe too good?). I tried to email them about the website and got a reply back saying they are not currently taking orders. Not sure what to make of it all, but it doesn't look good? Oh, well...guess I need a new supplier too?

Thanks for posting this link. I think it will do nicely to replace the ones from my now apparently defunct source. 18 volts and very close in price too. As usual Stan, thanks again for posting all this great info and these links!

If what you have is a circuit that has 5V available when active (and nothing when inactive), then above circuit is probably the simplest way out.  For about $1 on eBay get a DC-to-DC boost converter module.  This takes your 5V DC input and boosts it up to 12V DC (or more/less if you want brighte/dimmer LEDs).  This allows you to use off-the-shelf 12V LED screw-in bulbs.

If you just as soon stay with incandescent bulbs, you can use a 2nd relay module (99 cents) to supply 18V AC or whatever to the relay module.  This 2-relay method was shown in the original longer IR thread.  I can diagram that if you want to go that way; you can use a two identical 1-channel 5V relay module or get a 2-channel 5V relay module for less than $2 free shipping.

Auction number Stan?

Caught red-handed again by the auction number police!

161650445447

Thanks.

Dear Gentleman

Thank you for your replies.

Dear Stan

Would this work? 271676542465 I have it in my inventory of parts.

Same item, different seller.  I wonder when it will hit 99 cents (free shipping)!

Would 99.5 cents be close enough?  You have to buy two...

Auction: 201442919938

I've had this coin burning a hole in my pocket.  Finally, I can spend it!

You'll need two of them Stan, you have to buy the pair.

Does anyone know what's under the hood?  Is it:

(a) a single-diode plus LED plus resistor with "-" DC required on the screw base

(b) a bridge rectifier plus LED plus resistor which operates AC or DC (either polarity)

(c) something else

I assume for reliability there's no capacitor inside so (a) would flicker at 60 Hz if AC applied which can be bothersome.