Looking for a 10amp/24VAC relay to replace Z-Stuff DZ-1008 relay

The DZ-2500 only puts out a signal level output, so you'd need a pretty low current relay for that.  If you pop open a DZ-1008, you'll find a transistor switch actually driving the relay.

@CAPPilot posted:

I want to turn on/off track power to sidings (freight and passenger) using the DZ-2500 switch motor to provide the signal to operate a 10amp/24VAC replay.  I prefer not to use the DZ-1008 delay due to the tiny wires (24 AWG?), but a relay I can directly attached 18 AWG wires.  Size of relay does not matter.

Has anyone used a relay with the DZ-2500 other than the DZ-1008?  Thanks.

Ron,

From what John has said it looks like you'll need the 10A/24VAC relay that you originally cited AND a DZ-1008 that will be used to drive it (a small relay driving a big relay).  This is because a DZ-2500 can't drive such a large relay (10A/24VAC) by itself.

If you get the idea, can you handle the wiring?  Or do you need some help with it?

Mike

Mike,

Thank you.  I was already looking at using the DZ-1008 to drive a larger relay but was hoping there were other options.  Supposedly the small wires on the DZ-1008, if kept short, can handle the current but 6-7 amps seems a lot for that size wire.

The DZ-1008 actually appears to have #26 wire.

A radical thought.  Why not just take the cover off the DZ-1008 and give it a wire transplant?

Or, the three wires that stick out from the DZ-1008 are the actual pins from the relay, solder directly to them and you should be safe with your current requirements.  I believe you may be over-thinking this issue.

P.S., this is a bad relay that the one relay wire apparently got pulled out of the relay, that's why I have it out of the can.

Ron,      If you go the other route I have 2 different 24VAC 10A relays - both DPDT. The one style is by Square D and the other is a Schrack.  The Schracks have a mechanical tab on them where you can activate the relay by hand - cool.  Either relay uses an octal base which will easily take a 12 solid under the terminal. I also have some rotary selector switches if you go that way.  They are 11 position and 4 wafers deep.    JP

I'm not seeing where there's any reason not to use the DZ-1008 if you just wire directly to the pins.

These pins come directly out of the relay, so surely they can handle the rated current of the relay!

JP - email sent.

John,  I don't think those pins are attached to the COM/NC/NO wires (blue/gray/white).  I checked each pin combination for continuity to find the com and normally closed setting of the relay and they were all zero.  I get good continuity between the blue (COM) and gray (NC) wires.  At least that is what it looks like to me.

Also, I am not sure if my soldering skills are good enough to replace the 26 AWG wires with 18 AWG wires on that small circuit board.  I will take a look at it and see.

Ron, building on the thought of why use one relay when there is a way to use two, below is the arrangement for the DZ2500’s and the DZ1008 relays on my layout. I use BPC-2’s to turn siding power on and off but in two rail the 10A power to the turnout frog must be switched when the turnout is thrown. This setup can do what you are asking. The relays are just a standard 12V with 10A contacts. The sockets took time to do but over the past five years there have been several times I was glad I could just unplug the relay from its socket.

Well... you're right, I made a silly assumption about the pins.  However, the connections for the three wires from the contacts look to be pretty accessible anyway. However, let's assume you don't want to attack that or even open up the DZ-1008.

If you cut the existing wires short and spliced them, you should be fine.  Leaving 2 inches of #26 wire to splice to for the relay contacts, that gives you a wire resistance resistance of .0025 ohms for the short wires.  At ten amps of current that would drop 0.025 volts and dissipate .25 watts.  This would be a non-issue, and it will work fine.  Also, keep in mind that ten amps is the extreme case, it will be a very rare case where your sidings are carrying anything like ten amps!

I'll say it again, you don't need to complicate your life with extra add-on relays, just use the DZ-1008.

Here's the schematic of what's in the DZ-1008.

Well, I took a relay apart and soldered 18AWG wire to the Com and NO tabs.  These are the only wires that will have the full track power through them.  I cut a larger opening in the relay's housing for the wires.

I plan to bench check it soon, or just install it and see what happens.

Since it's a 10A relay, it certainly should be up to the task I would expect.

It is not the relay I am worried about, but my soldering skills

@CAPPilot posted:

It is not the relay I am worried about, but my soldering skills

Practice makes perfect!

Keep in mind these DZ relays are latching relays. 

@Mike CT posted:

Keep in mind these DZ relays are latching relays.

Not from the schematic I have for the DZ-1008!

From this application note, it indicates that the DZ-1008 doesn't latch and they're using the position of the DZ-1000 to make it act like a latching relay.

Therefore it's a latching relay.   Who woulda thunk. 

@Mike CT posted:

Therefore it's a latching relay.   Who woulda thunk. 

Well, I can call any relay a latching relay if I add components!