Looking for Pic of a Ross Switch modified for non-derailing

My understanding is that the currently are non-derailing without modification once you follow the wiring diagram for the switch motor. I specifically asked Steve that question at York in April. I'm I mistaken?

Mike

If using the DZ 1000 switch machines -

Go to the Ross web site, under technical - pull up DZ1000.

Self explanatory.

bruce

On my layout I added a half section of track before the non derail to give the Z stuff motors time to fully operate before the wheels hit the points.  Works well if you are a fast runner, or motor is a little lazy or points slightly bind.

DON'T CUT YOUR ROSS SWITCH!!!  The non-derail is simply a small section of completely un-powered "dead" rail which you attach one wire that is connected to one wire on the switch machine.

Good advice above.  Go to Ross Page--study diagram.  Second, add a small section of track adjacent to Ross switch and use as a dead rail section to activate the turnout machine.

That's why I prefer the set-up of Gargraves switches.  These switches are dead from end to end.  In others words, power will NOT pass from one end of the switch to the other.  This makes it simple to wire the non-derailing function.  This is versus Ross where the power passes completely through the switch.

Basil,

Ross does not make the switch machines.  If you bought the switches from Ross with the machines already attached, the are made by Z-Stuff.  You did not say which machines were attached (DZ-1000 or DZ-2500), but the Z-Stuff web page has good diagrams for both.

I doubt anyone has a good picture because the wiring would be under the switch or table, out of sight.

rrman posted:

On my layout I added a half section of track before the non derail to give the Z stuff motors time to fully operate before the wheels hit the points.  Works well if you are a fast runner, or motor is a little lazy or points slightly bind.

To add on to my reply, I paint the spot where the derail piece starts to insure no train wheels are on that section.  Also serves second purpose insuring the cars/loco are back enough to avoid passing train side swiping.

Attached is what I put together.

Joe

Basil, these switches were purchased as non-derailing with Z-Stuff switch machines.

This photo shows the turnouts secured with track screws.  This pair of turnouts is on a shelf so the terminal strip is on the same surface as the turnouts.  The small yellow and green wires are the "trigger" wires.

These are #8 turnouts that have long enough rails to activate non-derailing.  The tan cable is telephone wire that I use as switch signal wire.  The green arrows point to the soldered connections of those wires to the "trigger" tracks.  The green #1s indicate the hot glue insulation to maintain electrical conductivity between the "trigger" tracks.

This may be a silly question, why doesn't Ross make a switch with the non-derail feature?

Switches in place the isolated sensor rail section(s) were cut-in, and wired after the switches were installed.

Note the styrene insert in the cuts as part of the isolation.  Wire attached/soldered.

Where the short rails meet at the frog, I had to add styrene to separate the two rail sections.

Styrene strips. Cut and fit, CA applied to hold in-place.

It has taken me forever to circle back around to this, but thank you all for the input and advice.  I truly appreciate it.  

For reference, I have DZ-1000s.  I also have three or four NJ switch machines I'm going to make use of, and that should be a real treat wiring those up! 

Mike CT posted:

Switches in place the isolated sensor rail section(s) were cut-in, and wired after the switches were installed.

Note the styrene insert in the cuts as part of the isolation.  Wire attached/soldered.

Where the short rails meet at the frog, I had to add styrene to separate the two rail sections.

Styrene strips. Cut and fit, CA applied to hold in-place.

I was having an issue today after installing two ross #101.  I could not get the non derailing to work, tried everything.  The 072 and 072Y worked no problem.  I did not put anything between the two rails that meet at the frog.  After seeing your second picture, then looking at the switches, the two rails do touch at the frog, I am sure this is causing my issue.  I will try to isolate those two rails, or cut the rails just to the outside of where they touch.