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OK Guys,

I have kit-bashed my Lionel1950s Lionel Stop On Lights Signal, to delete the massive cast iron base, shorten the metal mast by 1/3, cut the mast off above the light fixtures, and delete the massive white crossing sign.   I am going to try to replace the massive red globe bulbs with the smaller clear LED bulbs that are sold for the Lionel 022 turn outs, and paint them red. A much smaller white crossing sign, stolen from the Lionel Gateman, will be added.    All of these changes have made it a much smaller, more realistic, kinda scale, accessory, that doesn't stick out like a big thumb on the layout.   So far, I have a total of $23 in this.   The hot wires inside the post have been preserved at their original full length, as hot leads, and I have soldered a new common lead to the back side of the metal post.   The lights work.



Now I'm going to make those lights flash on/off when the train approaches (and I don't care if they flash alternatively or not, just on and off together). 

I am going to use a section of track with an insulated rail I already had, to serve as the rely for the track power to the signal.

To make the lights flash when the train passes over the rail section, I am going to just paint or put a series of half inch "dashes" on the top and inside of the insulated rail, using some type of non-conductive coating, so that when the cars pass over the rail, the current will be intermittently blocked in an equal sequence to interrupt the current.

I am now exploring what non-conductive substance to us on the rails.  Any suggestions?

(I have heard about some durable rubber automobile coating, that TinMan uses after he solders a wire into the bottom of a rail, but I am not exactly sure what that is.)  Any other simple ideas for the dashes?  If I super clean the rail first, maybe two coats of rustoleum red primer? (I already have the rustoleum.)

Thanks,

Mannyrock













 

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@Mannyrock posted:


To make the lights flash when the train passes over the rail section, I am going to just paint or put a series of half inch "dashes" on the top and inside of the insulated rail, using some type of non-conductive coating, so that when the cars pass over the rail, the current will be intermittently blocked in an equal sequence to interrupt the current.

I am now exploring what non-conductive substance to us on the rails.  Any suggestions?






Mannyrock,

You've made my day.

Your thought process is an absolutely superb example of what I call elegant simplicity.  This is a quality too often left out of the design of many products these days.  Think of it as the diametric opposite of killing a fly with a sledgehammer.

Too often, because we can, we make things overly complex, and then stand back and ask the question "Isn't it impressive?".  I'm more impressed however with doing the same job using as little complexity as possible.

When I study the old designs in Lionel's portfolio I see elegant simplicity quite often.  Although some people may disagree I also see it in newer ones as well fortunately, however maybe not as often.

The very best technical people I've worked with over the years, engineers, software developers, technicians, and designers, were all masters at it, and they taught me a very important lesson that provides the foundation for it: K.I.S.S.



By the way, having said all of this, and in spite of it's importance in general, there are a few instances when you have to completely ignore elegant simplicity, at least temporarily.  These are the times when a sea change is necessary, when a radical turn is called for, when you need to invent a never-before-seen concept in order to advance the state of the art.  (Think TMCC and RailSounds back in the day, or Vision Line more recently.)

Fortunately yours isn't one of them @Mannyrock.  Bless you.

Thanks again.

Mike

Thanks for the great panoply of suggestions!

The signal is in fact that Lionel 154(D) Signal.

Roy, the flashing LEDs look pretty cool, yet I am somewhat hesitant to use the flashing LEDs, because I have probably "modified" (read that as butchered) the assembly enough, and trying to mount those little lights inside of the light holders could be a bridge too far for me.  If I crack those plastic housings, it would be game over.  A more skilled person would probably have no problem.

I had no idea about the 154C  contactor.  I may well look into that and see if I can get one for cheap.

Rob, wow!   Your explanation on the referenced post was extremely thorough.  It may be the "treatise" on the subject.  Thanks!

The Electric tape idea sure looks simple enough and that is kinda what I'm after.  I just wonder if there is any chance that the liquid tape may somehow wear off and gum-up the steel locomotive wheels?   If so, I guess a good solvent would remove it.

I'll post of picture here of the modified signal in a couple of days.  And, when I get the insulated rail solution decided upon, I'll post a picture of that completed part as well.

P.S.-  Mellow Mike.  Thanks for your compliment.  I've always liked being old-school.

P.S.S. - Roy, I may end up getting a pack of those flashing LEDs (10 for $6.00 delivered, with resistors), for some other feature on my layout.  But, your post says that I would first have to select a proper diode.   Isn't the LED bulb the diode?   Would I need to buy something else?   The LEDs you listed say 3V to 12V and that sounds OK.

Thanks again.

Mannyrock

@Mannyrock posted:

P.S.S. - Roy, I may end up getting a pack of those flashing LEDs (10 for $6.00 delivered, with resistors), for some other feature on my layout.  But, your post says that I would first have to select a proper diode.   Isn't the LED bulb the diode?   Would I need to buy something else?   The LEDs you listed say 3V to 12V and that sounds OK.

Thanks again.

Mannyrock

An LED is a diode, so you are correct. But an LED cannot tolerate the back voltage on the opposite polarity when used on AC. Putting a "regular" diode in series with the LED will protect it.

You can use a bridge rectifier instead and that will feed the LED with full wave power as opposed to the half wave that a single diode will provide.

If all this is making your head spin, then just do it the way you want to do it. After all, it's your railroad.

Last edited by RoyBoy

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