Micro Switch for K-Line switch

Do you have a picture of the switch with a ruler on it to determine the size?  Since it's unlikely to be a K-Line switch, perhaps we can cross-reference it to another source.

Walt, the nice thing about snap switches is that they are mostly "ambidextrous".  The K-Line switches are "mirror images" left to right, so just flipping the snap switch over onto the other side is all K-line did for the other assembly.

You will need to accurately measure the switch housing to find an off-the-shelf replacement - you need a SPDT.   Try AllElectronics and other similar suppliers.

John,

The switch (the micro one) broke in 2 pieces.  I guess I can take the K-Line switch apart again and see if I can get a picture by holding the broken pieces together.

thanks for the suggestion.

as always, thanks - walt

Places like Mouser and Digikey have a large selection of switches, it's quite possible you can find one that matches the one you have.

Another off the wall suggestion, did you look at gluing it together?  Don't laugh, I've done this several times.

Beside the sources mentioned you can also check the Lionel site. Search parts on "cherry switch". Shipping will likely cost more than the part so order from a place you can pad your order to mitigate the hit from shipping.

Pete

Walt

I had the micro switch go out on one of my 072 super snap K-Line switch and it is the same one used in the Fast Track switches. I got a few from Lionel worked great.

Wow, thanks so much for the positive and encouraging responses!!!

John, here's some photos.  My camera's not the best so these are as good as I could get.

- walt

Here's what the Lionel one looks like, appears similar.

John and Walt

That is the one I was talking about. I have one in an envelope for Walt and will mail it Friday and he can let us know if it works for him. I use it for my 072 K-line Lionel snap switches because I had one to break as well. I ordered them from Lionel I just need to fine the part number again for Walt in case he needs any more.

Here you go, this is the switch.

John

That is it and the part number so if it works for you Walt then you are set. Thanks John.

Thanks for the image John.  Yep, they sure do look alike!

- walt

Thanks a ton John and Wyatt.  I feel so much better.

Since this is the 3rd K-line switch to have the problem, I think I'll be picking up several of them waiting one-by-one for each of my 35 switches to go kaput!

DO you see that little 'nub' on the end of the 'arm' - that's what is wearing away on mine.  On the 3 that went bad that 'nub' no longer is there.  I compared it to a good switch and the good ones have the 'nub'.

- walt

JB-Weld is your friend if the nub is gone.  Just build a new one with it, great stuff!

It looks like that is plastic rubbing upon plastic.  That might accelerate the wear.  Maybe a dab of grease would help reduce the friction

Lube is certainly a good idea Dale.  If folks can build cam lobes for chuff switches with JB Weld, it certainly should fix these switches.

I like that tip John for repairing the 'nub'.  Much better than my crude fix last year on 2 switches - I posted a thread back then showing what I did - I wrapped some very thin strips of masking tape around the 'arm' and for some reason that worked.  The tape was placed directly above the 'plunger' that the arm hits.

Don't you love my use of technical terms?

I have a feeling that eventually each switch is going to go bad.  What I don't quite accept is this: I only have a Christmas layout and this is now the 3rd limiting switch that needed fixed.  And I would guess my switches are only 7 or 8 years old.  Why aren't we reading of constant complaints from permanent layout people using these K-Line low profile switches?

- walt

It's odd that there aren't more failures for Fastrack switches, I've not had one of these little guys go bad yet.  Maybe you're feeding those switches too much eggnog.

Did the switch that Wyatt sent you fit?

Hmm, I'm not sure how eggnog got translated to high voltage, but I didn't think high voltage had anything to do with the failure.   You appear to be having simple mechanical failures.

It's great the switch fits, makes it real easy to solve the repair problem.

I knew that your eggnog comment was humor and not pointed to "feeding" it high voltage.  I shouldn't have preceded my comment with "John,...." and just made the comment.  Sorry.

- walt

No apology necessary, I was just confused about the high voltage.

Walt

I am glad it worked out for you and was glad to help you out. You have the Lionel part number that John got for you so maybe you can order them from Lionel or a Hobby shop in your area.

Yeppers, I'm going to be ordering a dozen or so real soon!  I like John's suggestion for using JB Weld too and will probably try that first on the next failure even if I have replacement switches on hand, just to try it and see.

thanks again everyone - walt

I think I'd temper the order a little, you may never use that many switches.  I'd get a few and see if repairing them works, you may have the spares forever.

Those are good questions and answers guys on the old K-line switches.

I have been operating my layout with 0-36 switches and have only three gone

bad.

Has anyone made an attempt to tighten the 5/32" nuts on the bottom of the swing

rails?  I have two of those RMT GP Diesels that always derail when going into

the switch on a turn. Took a close look at the movable rails and saw where they

seemed loose. I tried to tighten them with a small flat nose tweezer but that did not

seem to work, possibly cause threads might be stripped...i dunno

So....

Any Suggestions will be greatly apperciated by me and my little sidekick,

Pip (a Jack Russel Terrier adoption) !!

Rufus/Bernard

Rufus:

You might get better feedback by starting a separate thread.  If people aren't interested in a micro switch thread they won't see your question.

- walt

Walt,

That inside K-Line motor picture and mechanical layout looks exactly the same as inside a Z Stuff actuator for Ross turnouts!  In fact, the circuitry of K-Line and Z Stuff appear identical when I traced them out several years ago.  Not to start a thread flame war here, but wonder who "borrowed" what technology from whom???

Sam, K-Line isn't around to dispute any findings, so we're all good.

Thanks Sam - it's always nice to know that more than one source might be available.!

as always, thanks - walt

It boggles my mind to see the mechanical complexity of that plastic switch! Thanks for the photos and education. Wondering what the built-in electronic circuit board is for ...

The simple circuit - diodes & resistors - is for the LED position indicators on the controller.  The latest/last production(low profile) K-Line switches have dedicated left & right controllers.

I guess I was seeing the Lionel version - upper left in photo is a circuit board with multiple transistors and IC ...

Yes I found that out the hard way when I was trying to put two switches on one controller. The problem was one was a RH switch and the other was LH switch and will not work. If both are the same switch, RH or LH it will work.

Wyatt: you can connect a RH and LH to the same controller if you used one of the older style ones.   I kept a few of my Lionel 027 controllers (after giving all of my switches, 45, away to my nephews) just for this reason.

Since I now use DCS and and AIU to control my switches it's just as easy to control 2 of different orientation.

Here's this year's layout showing just one of a few places where I did it.  I have switches 8 and 9 connected so that they switch as a pair.

- walt

Hi Walt,

 I like that  switch combo.

In your picture, is that two 0-42's and one 0-27? What are you using as a short  fillerbetween the 0-27 and 0-42?  Mine will not connect without one unless I trim the footprint.

I use those K-lines with an SC-1 TMCC controller which works similar to the older Lionel 0-27 controller. I can see programing a route but why would you wire together. doesent the non-derailing feature throw the second turnout automatically?

FMH

Walt, did those switches work?

Walt,

 You can also get those switches from the manual K-lines which are real inexpensive used.

I had a problem with my switch where the motor kept spinning  because it was  not engaging the gear prpoerly and the cam was not moving to shut off.

The actual issue was the motor was not seating properly in the housing and the screw holding it was stripped at the factory.

Just switched the mechanical guts from the manual switch leaving the wires.

The manual switch  still works because the cam is moved by the little lever on top. Not the gearing.The rebuilt one works like new. Thats when i noticed that the manual has the same microswicth with very little wear. Had been thinking of selling those, but will keep them for parts.

I must have missed the reply, glad it worked out.

Hi Walt,

Thanks for reply. I do have three of the 0-42's so I think i will do it the way you originally had.

Like you I am always on the lookout for more.

FMH