I need more power for more Miller signs; a.c. (3 or 12 signs)plug-in or power pack low voltage (6 signs).
Which is best/better? I like the 6-sign one but it ties up a power pack/transformer.
Thanks. Wally
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I use two of their 6-sign adapters - I have both, along with a bunch of other accessories running off of one 14v AC access post on a Z-4000. Per the instructions from Miller, each adapter draws up to 500ma. I currently have 6 Miller signs going, couple of dozen Evan LEDs, lighted Woodland Scenics building and a Lionel MG tower - total draw 0.8A.
If you do not want to use a transformer, get a 5V cell phone charger
that runs off 110v ac. The output is 1amp at 5v put they use a USB
connector.
Originally Posted by pa:
If you do not want to use a transformer, get a 5V cell phone charger
that runs off 110v ac. The output is 1amp at 5v put they use a USB
connector.
With a pair of wire clippers, they can use any connector you like. 
Be careful to steer away from his earliest power source: it was unregulated. I guess you can figure out how I learned that - twice.
- walt
Walt; How do you tell if it's "unregulated"?
Wally
I'd put a meter on it with no load. If it's not close to 5V at that point, it's not regulated.
Not that it is a big deal,but I think Miller supplies are 4.5 volts. From your 5 volt supply you might want to add a diode in series from the regulated side in proper polarity to reduce voltage to 4.4.
If your sign is on op of a building you could install a 7805 regulator circuit off general lighting in the building to light the signs individually.
Dale H
The Miller power supplies have a 5v regulator. The signs
will work on up to 6VDC I was told in an eMail from Miller.
I based my comments on the fact that I held the Miller P/S in my hand and it was a 5V supply. 
I make my own supplies using a LM317 variable regulator. Mine are set for 4.5 volts and the devices are rated for 1.5 amps.
Pete
1.5A with a proper heatsink, right? 
I would assume thats correct. I rarely used these without a heat sink though in this case to power a single sign you could probably leave it off. Its been a while since I measured current draw but believe they only need a fraction of an amp/sign.
Pete
I'm just saying that if you plan on getting 1.5A from that regulator, you will require a proper heatsink. I routinely use them with 200-300 MA with no HS, but as you go up in power, the dissipation increases and the bare package will no longer handle it.
Originally Posted by Cho Cho Wally:
Walt; How do you tell if it's "unregulated"?
Wally
Wally (neat - that's what I was called thru college): Chris himself told me that his was not regulated. He told me this while he and I talked for about the 3rd time on why I was having issues with the controllers going bad and/or the signs not working correctly. He said I must be having power surges in my house and his power supply, since it wasn't regulated, would pass that surge thru.
This was with his very earliest one, not his newer one.
Chris pointed me to a Radio Shack one and told me what to look for, but I don't recall what that was. My stuff is packed away right now so I don't have access to the power source to try to remind myself. If you talked with a qualified RS employee they should know - at least when I bought mine there the guy knew and then showed me.
- walt
There are a lot of these on the bay from time to time...power them from a Lionel transformer with a diode bridge...
or...
I ordered some of these power supplies but they come from
China so it may take a few weeks to arrive.
Hard to say, but China seems to come a lot sooner than Hong Kong. So if I have a choice, I go with China.
My choice is USA, but a lot of stuff simply isn't made here anymore.
Ordered 10 2596 switching regulators from eBay. The cost was
$12 including shipping. It only took a week to come from China.
The board is about 1x2 " and no heat sink.All that is needed is
a bridge rectifier and filter cap. The output is adjustable to 5V
and will run off of track voltage.This is a very cheap and easy way
to operate Miller signs or any 5v device from track power.
Do you have a link to the ones you ordered? Are they AC in, or do you still need to supply them with DC?
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Do you have a link to the ones you ordered? Are they AC in, or do you still need to supply them with DC?
Found it...
They look good, I see they do require a bridge to convert to DC before the converter, but that's cheap. Since it appears to have a 100uf input cap, you can probably dispense with the extra cap on the input and just use the bridge.
Hard to argue with the price!
Tried the regulator with only the bridge rectifier. With a 1 amp load,
the output voltage would change with input voltage changes. Added a 1000uF cap
to the input and no change in output with a change in input voltage.
A 1000uF cap is a little large but should work with a 220uF depending
on input voltage and load.
