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Hi folks!

 

I am posting this here for reading pleasure and for those that are bored but it does relate to modeling and since I am modeling "O"n30 at this time - here ya go!

 

Just thought I would share this tid bit as I received a message today asking about my photography equipment and techniques when shooting models and how it is similar to shooting models. The discussion was how I bring down the highlights to better suit or flow with the shadows.

 

I told him about the glass filters I use. Being a photographer, I do have special equipment but I made sure he knew that you can achieve a similar effect with processing as I did with this shot. I simply used gradients in photoshop in this case.

Just happens, I was going through some of my photography sets from last year and came across this shot I took with one of my other cameras of the camera and filters I was using at the time for the shoot. I use Lee glass filters of varying degrees of neutral density gradient. I have many, and some are soft towards the end of the effect making a subtle transition and other I have are hard transition which I use when shooting models with my backdrop.

 

 

I was waiting for the sun to come back at the time I took this shot. The 2 filters in tandem on the lens in this shot are soft filters bringing the sky down about 1-1/2 stops.  I use the same principles and techniques for modeling photos, although many are mutiple images for focus stacking and such.

 

 

The finished master shot (panorama) for those interested in how it came out.

Original Post

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Joey,

 

What do you think about posting some photography tips?

 

I do not consider myself to be a photographer but have learned a few things while photographing my trains.

 

Use the following:

 

Apeture Priority Setting
Tripod or Sandbag
Timer
Stabilizer Off
Manual Focus
Proper White Balance for room lighting
Low ISO  
 
Your shot looks great and I for one would love to learn more.
 
Dave

1) Shoot RAW, not .jpg (or better yet, shoot film)

2) If you shoot jpg use the largest file size possible (Usually called Large, Fine or similar)

3) I am less worried about low ISO these days, most digital cameras make 800 look like 100 of old

4) Don't use the flash on top of your camera EVER. As Dave said, use a tripod, sandbag or get some flood lights

5) If you are using an external source or light turn off all other lights in the room, usually the two don't mix

6) Use fill cards just out of  camera view to reflect light into the dark reaches. Fill cards can be white cardstock, crumpled foil attached to cardboard or even black cardboard can help light the scene

And finally take your time with the shot and listen to Batman

Last edited by cbojanower

Chris, your comment "(or better yet, shoot film)" isn't a smiley to me!  I have an older Canon AE-1 film camera and also a point and shoot digital (but a nice one, not some cheapo one).

 

I still like film!  It's getting though that places where I used to get it developed have dropped the service though.  Makes sense but it bothers me since I still find situations where I prefer to shoot film.

 

- walt

My earlier career as a photojournalist actually began in high school with a Crown Graphic. From that, I graduated to a Rollei, a Mamiyaflex, a Bronica, and a Hasselblad--all 120-format--and then to Leica, Nikon, and Canon 35mm cameras.

 

My first real job as a photographer was in my college undergrad years when I worked with the U.S. Trotting Association (governing body of harness racing).  Later, I was Chief of Audio-Visual Operations for the U.S. Army in Vietnam. I then worked as a civilian correspondent/photojournalist in Vietnam (UPI and Black Star Photo Agency), followed by a stint as a freelance photographer in Hawaii.  That eventually led to a 13-year career as Photo and Graphics Editor for The Honolulu Advertiser.

 

I enjoyed working with film cameras, and also enjoyed getting my hands wet in the darkroom with both B&W and color processing and printing (taught photojournalism at Ohio State and at the University of Hawaii).  It was great working with students to help them develop their photographic skills and gain an appreciation for how light works in the world of photography.

 

All the tips Joey, Dave, and Chris have provided here are excellent ones, but the very best tips that relate to model train photography, in my view, are to always use a tripod or other firm support (beanbags are great), pay very close attention to depth-of-field (use the smallest aperture possible), and forget that a flash unit built into the camera even exists. Another tip that really only comes from hands-on experience is to learn all you possibly can about how light "works" so you can evaluate, manipulate, and control its effects with floodlights, reflective umbrellas or cards, and other devices and techniques.

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