Modeling Water

Just came across this video...a bit labor intensive but looks like fun and possibly just the solution I'm looking for...as long as it doesn't crack where there are seams in the substrate (the table gets slid around on occasion)...anyone ever try this...any thoughts?

https://youtu.be/2TwpB7sVMn8

In this situation, I would use plate glass--painted on bottom and applied ModPodge waves on the top.

I'm afraid glass is going to start to get too heavy...plus cutting it to go along with the edges, 45 degree angle, etc. isn't realistic for me...thank you for the response though Pete!

Saw this thread and figured I would help out.  My intention here is not to promote another magazine, but O Scale Trains (which I read in addition to OGR) had a two part feature last year on building a wharf/waterfront, which could be of assistance seeing as your plan looks to have has bridges near an industrial area.  Look up the Jul/Aug and Sep/Oct issues.

Kevin,

Is there a price attached to viewing these older issues of O Scale Trains?

Dave

Can you divide the water area into two parts with dry land along the seam? It will probably be easier to conceal the seam if it is covered by "land" rather than "water." I poured a thin layer (about 1/16" to 1/8") of Envirotex two-part epoxy to make the water area on my layout. Use plaster, acrylic paint, talus, real dirt and various sizes of brown and dark brown ballast to cover and seal the riverbed - glued down with diluted yellow carpenters glue, then pour the epoxy. If the "water" is poured to the edge of the layout, put a temporary barrier at the edge to prevent spilling over the edge - and cover the floor beneath the edge...

MELGAR

Dave, I don't believe that OST has a digital archive and the back issues would have to be purchased.  I will scan copies of the article and send it to the email in your profile.  Just need to locate one of the issues first, which is in a storage bin somewhere. 

Seams as in vertical, or between layers or both?

for vertical, cover one half (half prone to settle low, & prop up first) with plastic wrap so the water cannot adhere to one surface, but does rest there nice. Your seam may unseat on the plastic wrap half, but cracking chance is 50% reduced.

For purely leaky çoncerns, seal the land being covered by painting with "water" or compatible paint sealer and letting it set up, then doing an actual pour. Caulk, then color paint, then a water pour is another option if the open gaps and cells are big ones. 

If you use a two part mix, it may work to wait until the water thickens slightly to pour. (I've done this with fiberglass pouring, but your timing has to be real good, and pour a fast but smooth blob that can still flow flat, to avoid bubbles in it or even forming stress and stretch streaks .)

Maybe I'm not understanding your question..... but why not use plaster cloth to seal off the area you want to apply your water effect to?