Modern cantilever signal bridge

The building of this cantilever will begin earlier than planned because I received almost all pieces to do it.

The first work will be to cut the little reinforcments (photo 1) and to cut and drill the poles to insert pieces of photo 1 (photo 2).

So, see you soon!

Here is the first tool for assembly of the horizontal part; not very easy to do! that should be fine...

Beginning by the bottom!

Cantilever will be hold to this base by bolts (1 mm) and nuts to have a perfect horizontal and vertical aspect; that's why I keep a 2 (perhaps 3 mm) space between the base and the 4 poles:

This looks really good. I'm glad you're posting the construction. I also like that you're using graphic software to produce the designs.

Not sure how I missed this thread at the end of August.  I may be too late seeing as you already have parts underway.  But you could try the Western Cullen Hayes website for some information on these types of signals.  Click on the "Cantilever" tab for some specifications that may give you some hard reference points to interpret photos with.

I want these too.  The BLMA models are very nice, and would be welcome in O scale.

Jim

Thanks for your replies!

----> Trainman2001: merci beaucoup

----> Jim: I can give you the drawings to build one too; no copyright!! I'm here to share!

I just saved the images from this thread.  If you have something else with more or better information, feel free to contact me.  My email is in my profile.

Also, I can create new files in 3d autocad if you have any interest.  I'm not sure of Sketchup's capabilities, but I (or you) can 3d print from the autocad files.

Jim

I think with the STL add-in, SketchUp can output to 3D printers.

I'm not ready for 3d personally, but will be following along too, just to soak up info.

Thank you JPV69.

I tried to lobby BLMA to do their signals and bridges in O Scale at the NMRA.  Interest was slightly less than nil.

I'd love to have a copy of the cad file or the individual layups for printing.

Thanks for your interest!

---->bigtrain: No problem for more information.

I don't use Autocad: too hard for me!!! I content with my little 2D software and Sketchup. As Trainman2001 says, the STL plug-in for Sketchup can output to 3D printers (but today, I have no 3D printer!!!).

---->rdunniii: I can't give you a copy of the layers because I have not Sketchup "Pro", just Sketchup " Make" and I can only export in ".DAE" files. However, I think I can give you the 2D drawings as I do on this topic but by private mail if yo want.

----> for you all, I can also insert in this topic other 3D views of  all faces of the cantilever bridge in different points of view. So tell me

See you soon

Second step: the bottom of the 4 poles; not easy to adjust but all is right! this afternoon, I wanted to drill the holes in the poles but the drilling tool was not enough precise; I had to do another one...

Warning: some little changes on the drawings; I will post the new ones this evening.

Les Anchor Bolts etes tres magnifique!

Lol!  I'm the other way around.  Sketchup drove me nuts coming from an Autocad background.

Other 3d views aren't necessary unless you feel they would add something to the information.  The 2d drawings offer plenty, and I would probably just reference actual prototype photos for additional info anyway.

Thanks again.  I'll keep an eye on this project.

Jim

Merci, Trainman2001!

My internet connexion is small this evening, so I will post the new drawings tomorrow! sorry!

Just printing out your full scale 2d drawings as PDFs and making the PDFs available would be awesome.

My 2D software gives me ".cao" files and Adobe don't recognize these files; I can only export in ".bmp" but I don't know if the files are exported full scale!

Last solution: I print the drawings and I send you a letter! it's perhaps the easiest way!

Here is the first pole on the base; it is pre-drilled for larger holes to come, not definitively fixed, just to see if something goes wrong.

Last version of the drawings; the main modification is on the horizontal frame; Four 3 mm (0,12") tubes instead of 2 mm; I can't keep on drilling holes, my old mini-drill stand is broken(gear)! I have to buy another one!!!...

Test ".bmp"; is it better for you?

I make the test for me too! I find more legible when cliking on the drawing; but not exactly to scale!

I suceeded as best as possible in drilling to complete the four poles; not very easy but it's not too bad!

Looking great so far!  Yes, "not too bad".

If you don't mind, later this week I could copy your drawings into cad and then save them as pdf files.  I believe the pdf's should be at scale, although I'll need to do a test to see for sure.

Jim

I may have missed it, but what are you using for the anchor bolts and nuts? Is that real threaded hardware? This is going to be beautiful. How many are you planning on making for the layout?

Great work so far. The detail is excellent.

Many thanks, Matt!

---->Jim: 'don't mind! try with the ".bmp", it's the clearest.

----> Trainman2001: Yes really threaded (ISO standard M1, 10 mm long; as well as nuts which I can find out of the ISO standard, but M1 too, because they are less wide and so, more to scale! but they are also minuscule and eager to escape!!!! sure this kind of bolts exists in your country (perhaps not the same standard).

How many? Great question! 'don't know yet; already the prototype! it will depends of the final track plan and of my knowledge about US signalling, but it's not so different than french signalling: green, clear; yellow: warning; red: stop; for speaking simply! after that, they are lot of rules and combinations of colours which are different.

See you soon

I have to wait now for my new drill stand I ordered today; I don't want to make the final holes at an angle!

Meanwhile I made this 3D drawing for the signal target.

First attempt: assembly of one part of the horizontal beam( styrene tube 3 mm and brass wire 1 mm with cyano glue).

It's going to look marvelous. I wish you'd attempt to do it in all brass. It would be much stronger. Styrene's wonderful to work with, but it can let go at times. 

Speaking of brass. My American Beauty Resistance Soldering Unit just stopped working. The circuit breaker button appears to be in the on position. I've checked all the power connections. I'm going to call them on Monday. I actually had to use a conventional soldering iron. Horrors!

No, no, I'm not good at soldering and I have only a poor soldering iron!!! I think that when all the parts will be together glued, including the walkway, the ridgidity will be good enouth for the horizontal beam. For the vertical parts, tubes of 6 and 3 mm diameter will make the pole strong. (I hope!)

Sorry for your soldering unit! it happens always when you need it! like my drill stand!!!

A bientôt, cher ami

Jean Patrick

Little progress; first the tooling for good space between the two 3 mm tubes and a first assembly (without glue), just for a general idea.

Step by step! first the micro upper bolts for fixing the four poles to the "concrete" base (graduations in mm).

And the main pole as it is this evening.

Hope you like.

The vertical part is finished (painting comes later); I find the caged ladder a little too oversized, but I have not found another model than the one from Plastruct!

It looks fine in the photo.

It's all excellent work. 

Cheers

Thanks, Max. Today, I begin the assembly of the horizontal part, if I find enough time..........

Fantastic project.

Really well done !

Scrappy

Thanks Scrappy!

Here is the horizontal part, not glued to the vertical one but only to get the good spacing between the tubes:

Really looking sharp! How do you plan on connecting the light heads to the structure?

Thanks, Trainman2001!

I would like to use signals target like those I have made in 3D (post 23th of september); but it's not easy to find; perhaps I have to make them by myself (and I have not yet a 3D printer); connection will be made with glue or bolts, certainly and the locations are ready; but I wonder if I would have to do a second floor to the bridge if I have to install a second target above the first one. It will depends of the place on the layout and of my knowledge of US signalling. For the moment, it's a prototype and I have to find the way to do these signal heads easily; I have seen ready to use targets on E-bay, but I don't like to purchase on this web site...

Happy sunday

JPatrick