Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Sometimes, it's just plain old dumb luck and a little elbow grease in MS Paint.  I literally just plopped my camera down and snapped this picture.  There was absolutely no planning.  Shot with a Fuji FinePix point and shoot camera:

KGB 102409 07

 

I liked the angle and thought I might have something.  After a couple of hours in MS Paint and a little tweaking with HP Photosmart, this fell out of my PC:

South of Iola

 

Rusty

Attachments

Images (2)
  • KGB 102409 07
  • South of Iola
Last edited by Rusty Traque

as Rusty demonstrated in the photo above, it may not have been a lot of planning, but getting the camera down to a natural eye level (5-6 scale feet above ground level) is the best start to a natural looking picture.  alternately, looking at a prototype photo taken from an overpass or other high perspective, often gives a scene the look of a model.

Originally Posted by Rusty Traque:

Sometimes, it's just plain old dumb luck and a little elbow grease in MS Paint.  I literally just plopped my camera down and snapped this picture.  There was absolutely no planning.  Shot with a Fuji FinePix point and shoot camera:

KGB 102409 07

 

I liked the angle and thought I might have something.  After a couple of hours in MS Paint and a little tweaking with HP Photosmart, this fell out of my PC:

South of Iola

 

Rusty

Really nice! Wonder how the effect would translate over to 3 rail?

As others have shown and said, low camera angles to the track are a must.  Also be sure that the background is filled by items or scenery on your layout or your layout's scenic backdrop.  Display shelves, photo frames, etc. hanging on the wall will ruin a realistic photo.

 

 

13 Franklin Stacked crop fix headlight corner tcc shadows 10% small

 

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 13 Franklin Stacked crop fix headlight corner tcc shadows 10% small

Another trick is to take maximum advantage of the depth of field that your camera can use.  A wider angle lens creates a greater effective depth of field.  Also using the smallest aperture will increase depth of field.  I shoot most of my photos using F22 on my 16mm DSLR lens.  Since I don't really have much of a layout, I use a lot of props too.

 

Some old photos:

 

 

IMGP9125_ED2

IMGP7460_ED

IMGP3514

_IGP9510

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMGP9125_ED2
  • IMGP7460_ED
  • IMGP3514
  • _IGP9510
Originally Posted by CSX Al:

 

 

 

although i cannot fault the composition setup here, the original question asked about techniques to offer realism and these two photos demonstrate two of the flaws that were first mentioned in this string.  1)  the perspective is much too high.  the camera seems to be at a very unlikely position for a railfan to capture these scenes unless they brought a 20' step ladder with them and 2) the very shallow depth of field could not be duplicated in a natural setting.  any railfan's camera would show the complete scene in focus as anything more than ~10 scale feet away from the lens would be at infinity.  every modeling picture i take needs to be tripod steadied as i use aperture priority exclusively (f32) which normally calls for 20-30 second exposures to get the entire scene in focus.

 

again, sorry to pick on these particular photos as there are definitely other examples that have been posted.  just thought the string was straying off the original topic.

Ok Then I'm sure that this image fits the original question
 
Originally Posted by overlandflyer:
Originally Posted by CSX Al:

although i cannot fault the composition setup here, the original question asked about techniques to offer realism and these two photos demonstrate two of the flaws that were first mentioned in this string.  1)  the perspective is much too high.  the camera seems to be at a very unlikely position for a railfan to capture these scenes unless they brought a 20' step ladder with them and 2) the very shallow depth of field could not be duplicated in a natural setting.  any railfan's camera would show the complete scene in focus as anything more than ~10 scale feet away from the lens would be at infinity.  every modeling picture i take needs to be tripod steadied as i use aperture priority exclusively (f32) which normally calls for 20-30 second exposures to get the entire scene in focus.

 

again, sorry to pick on these particular photos as there are definitely other examples that have been posted.  just thought the string was straying off the original topic.

 

Originally Posted by CWEX:

Not my work, and it's HO but well worth the look see. Take a look here.

M hometown is Logansport, Indiana, and the first time I ran across those photos I was impressed by how well small town Indiana was depicted (the trackwork modeled is a bit neat compared to the real deal ).  Logansport was a major area of activity for the Pennsy through the Penn Central era.  Conrail pretty much wiped Logansport out as far as former PRR lines were concerned.  Today, NS (former Wabash) provides plenty of action, and the TP&W moves some traffic as well.

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×