Which do you prefer to use on your layout and why. I prefer window screen because of its strength. When you place the plaster cloth on it and rub it with wet fingers the plaster seeps into the screen and becomes quite strong.
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This worked well, I was detailing retaining walls, part of the BTS kit, and added concrete footers, for the slope sheet of the tipple. Plaster cloth and wood framing. Random cloth piece were added for detail. Every model needs a very good base/structure.
The construction, makes the piece modular/transport-able.
I prefer cardboard and foam. Using screen was always good but it could interfere with the TMCC signal if not grounded.
Cardboard strips and red rosin paper.
Hi guy's, Mike your modeling is FANTASTIC I could look at your work all day. Building the sean on a bench and than placing it on the layout is something I must try and do. Don, you know I never gave that a thought. How do I ground it? CanI ground it to my common ground on the layout? Charlie, I don't think I have seen that type of construction do you have any pictures? Hey, please forgive my typing skills the last time I spent time on a key board was when I punch it on my way out of class when I was sixteen. Boy if their were only do overs for mistakes made.
I've used both, depending on what i had on hand, had run out of at 9:30in the evening, and what worked best for the geography to be covered. Instead of wire screen i used the fiberglass screen from my local ACE Hardware - no TMCC signal interference.
Plaster cloth is nice but too expensive for me; a $5 pail of joint compound and some rolls of Bounty paper towels and a box of Scott blue towels (from NAPA) dipped in some diluted joint compound have served me well for almost 25 years now.
jackson
It is a method I first saw used by Howard Zane; and it is great for cutting in diorama scenes into the layout.
Thank's Charlie, It really gives me some help with how to finish off the second level of my lay out. Steve
Originally Posted by Mike CT:
This worked well, I was detailing retaining walls, part of the BTS kit, and added concrete footers, for the slope sheet of the tipple. ...... Every model needs a very good base/structure.
The construction, makes the piece modular/transport-able.
Nicely set up; good tip to be harvested here --> put that structure on it's own base for working on it, for doing scenery, for "planting" it on the layout, for moving it later as needs be....
As for mountains - stacked & glued shaped blue foam direclt covere with hydrocal. Rest of the terrain is woven brown paper covered with cloth with hydrocal just "painted" on directly...
Shop paper towels dipped in structolite and laid over cardboard strips has been working for me. Makes a nice hard crusty shell.
I just finished my 1st Mountain and I used Crushed up Newspaper and Plaster Cloth. I used 4 layers and it is rock solid and light to move.
Stephen, Martin:
Thanks for the compliments
Mike
Originally Posted by Mike CT:
Stephen, Martin:
Thanks for the compliments
Mike
It's deserved and a good idea is a good idea that folks should appreciate and learn from....
I've learned to place all of my structures on a base similarly for ease of working on them and installation purposes. But, I was also motivated to do this since having to demolish layouts for estates it's close to impossible to extract rather valuable structures for re-sale or salvage w/o inflicting damage when they are glued down to the layout. I'd like to be able to think that if demolished (or if I have to move...) that I could salvage some very unique structures from my layout.
I recently bought a very nice structure that had been on the layout of an MMR. Had it been glued in place, it probably would have been dtroyed in th extraction process.
