I decided that I wanted a moving boat on my water - AFTER finishing the water on top of a very thick wood base. The total thickness is one inch! I did not think it possible to have a moving boat. I experimented with an old hard drive magnet and a couple of small N52 neodymium magnets and found that it could work! I ordered a motor/gearbox that turns at 3.5 rpm with 12vdc. I ended up using 5vdc because 3.5 rpm was too fast. It works reasonably well, but not as smoothly as desired due to the thickness of the wood. It is good enough! Pictures and video below.
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Real boats do not always move smoothly. The occupants of the boat do not seem to be focused on efficient rowing.
@ogaugenut posted:Real boats do not always move smoothly. The occupants of the boat do not seem to be focused on efficient rowing.
I was hoping you wouldn't notice. Some people call that spot "lover's lake". It's the water intake for the power plant on the hill above. If something gets dumped from a train moving over the bridge it will spoil the mood...
Very cool!!
I think if you work at reducing the friction under the boat, it would run pretty smooth. One way would be to take the undercarriage of a tiny model car and put the boat on wheels.
Some silicone spray might be enough to get that boat moving smoother. Resin tends to be a bit sticky.
try a felt pad
Thanks for the suggestions! I tried a thin microfiber fabric and the boat did not move at all. I have not tried felt yet. I applied a thin double stick tape and left the slick outer coating on it. I might try silicon or wax. Putting the boat on wheels is an interesting idea, I would not have thought of that. I recently finished two other "animations" that I will post separately. The moving boat isn't quite as important as more visible areas, it's just an extra bit of fun.
That's awesome! This would really grab my attention if I saw it in person. I would be so interested to know how you accomplished it. Well done!!
@Dave Koehler posted:try a felt pad
I agree with Dave.
And, a small DC motor with an eccentric weight on the armature...essentially an old 'pager' motor...mounted to the river base board in the vicinity of the row boat action might create just enough vibration to keep the felt-bottom boat moving smoothly. I 'spect the motor could be run at a low enough voltage to do the job without becoming an audible distraction.
Really a fun bit of animation. Nice idea! Very creative!
KD
@BillYo414 posted:That's awesome! This would really grab my attention if I saw it in person. I would be so interested to know how you accomplished it. Well done!!
It is relatively simple. The boat has two magnets recessed into the bottom. I drilled holes in the bottom of the boat and glued them in. The arm under the table has a hard drive magnet fastened to the end. The motor and linkage make the arm travel back and forth. If the board/base were not so thick, I would not need something as strong as the hard drive magnet. Strong magnets are now commonly available, so you don't have to dismantle an old hard drive.
I will get some felt and see if the boat moves more smoothly.
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I like the vibrator idea as well, that would tend to keep it from sticking.
Beyond the issues with smooth sailing, visitors to your layout may confirm romance in a rowboat is more satisfying than the alternative in the back seat of a '57 Chevy.
Carry on with creative vignettes, regardless ...
Mike M.
I like it.
I'll add my $.02.....
If you put the magnets under the bow only and added wheels on the stern, the boat should turn when the arm reverses direction. That way it will always move bow first.
I agree with adding some lubricant to let the boat slide more freely. I'd try WD40 too.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:I like it.
I'll add my $.02.....
If you put the magnets under the bow only and added wheels on the stern, the boat should turn when the arm reverses direction. That way it will always move bow first.
I agree with adding some lubricant to let the boat slide more freely. I'd try WD40 too.
Bob
as WD40 is a penetrating oil and may effect the resin , you may was to use a silica spray instead
I don't know about your train room, but over time my layout accumulates a layer of dust. After all, main floor traffic does its share of shaking the dust from the basement ceiling. A deposit of WD40 mixed with the dust might not be a recipe for long term success. In fact, periodic cleaning of the resin lake surface would be one of those maintenance chores we're all so diligent about. Right?...
In fact, now that I think about it, your bridgework over the water probably adds to the 'scum' accumulation. Any sparking...readily apparent or microscopic...from passing trains is well known to generate carbon dust, the stuff of "dirty track". Again, mixed with any 'goo' on the surface of the resin lake, the long term effect on smooth sailing for the lovers might ruin the 'mood'...as well as the motion.
Just a thought...FWIW, of course.
You are absolutely correct about dust and scum! I clean the resin frequently with a vacuum and a large, soft makeup brush. My train room is relatively dust free and gets vacuumed regularly, but it still needs dusting occasionally. WD-40 tends to dry out and leave a sticky residue. Yesterday I got some felt to put on the boat. It was too thick and did not work. I kept picking off felt to thin it, and finally achieved an improvement. I now have smooth operation for about two thirds or more of the travel. I might try a bit of a cotton sheet or different felt when I have more more patience. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Looks like something on the surface at the end is causing the problem.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Looks like something on the surface at the end is causing the problem.
It is probably a difference in surface texture of the resin.
@Mr Fixit posted:It is probably a difference in surface texture of the resin.
That's where the wheels would help.
@Mr Fixit posted:You are absolutely correct about dust and scum! I clean the resin frequently with a vacuum and a large, soft makeup brush. My train room is relatively dust free and gets vacuumed regularly, but it still needs dusting occasionally. WD-40 tends to dry out and leave a sticky residue. Yesterday I got some felt to put on the boat. It was too thick and did not work. I kept picking off felt to thin it, and finally achieved an improvement. I now have smooth operation for about two thirds or more of the travel. I might try a bit of a cotton sheet or different felt when I have more more patience. Thanks for the suggestions!
sorry the product I was thinking of had a peal and stick backing, they used it in lamps and such as not to scratch wooden table tops
If you can get the friction down then a single, unglued magnet under the bow that rests in an oversized hole might solve your problem. Drag on the stern would cause the boat to swivel about the loose magnet and follow the magnet back to the bridge. Perhaps several round-head pins or pimples on the boat bottom will aid in reducing drag.
To much magnetic attraction will increase the drag force between the boat and the resin..
Jan
I FINALLY got the boat to move smoothly for the full travel in both directions. I tried a little silicone grease (spread very thin) and it did not work at all. Next, I cleaned the grease off with soap and water. It took several cleanings to get it off.
I put three very thin tiny pieces of felt on the boat and now it works perfectly. Now I am ready to go paint bathroom cabinets . I told my wife that I need to add a workshop on my train set with a man inside spraying cabinet doors.
Could this have been the residue of the infamous 'Odyssey Lurch'?
Excellent animation and your 'water' gets very high marks as well!