MTH Crossing Signal hook up?

Don: Does the signal work when hooked directly to the aux power without the isolated track section?

Did you use the lockon binding post that is going to the insulated rail?

@Don Baird posted:

Don,

To what does the red wire connect?

Where does it go?

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

Don,

To what does the red wire connect?

Where does it go?

Mike

2.  Ran a line from Auxillary power to the other terminal on the crossing signal. (See photos).

Common  (out side rail) is the other terminal on the lockon.  Move the black wire on the lockon to the other lockon terminal.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-4112-250.pdf

I think with three terminals, it needs a flasher.

@John H posted:

I think with three terminals, it needs a flasher.

It's an MTH one, not the Lionel one.

It's NOT 3 terminals, it's 2 terminals because in the base are electronics to self flash.

.

Again, it's a https://mthtrains.com/30-1074

They printed the instructions on the back of the box- but he may not have the box?

Lionel has black cross bucks

Also the accessory common and the track common need to be connected for this to work.

John H

i was talking about the MTH pictured by Vernon Berry.
HOWEVER, I do have 5 of the old Lionel 154s with three terminals. I hope to somehow use them with insulated track.  (My permanent layout is tubular). Would the rail crossing flasher to which you refer work for me?  Where are they to be found?

@shorling posted:

Also the accessory common and the track common need to be connected for this to work.

I'd take that even a step further.

#1 using self flashing and regulating MTH special flasher- thus we don't care as much about the source voltage and simple triggering- just power it.

#2 already using a lockon- a LIGHTED LOCKON- to connect- just connect both wires of the lockon, to both terminals of the flasher. Even in conventional, there is track power when the train is running- no need for extra aux wiring?

#3 Common sense test- the lighted lockon should light up when a car or engine is present in the insulated section with track power. Solve this first and ensure you section is actually properly insulated. Again, lighted lockon should be off with nothing present and track powered, with a car or engine in the insulated section- lighted lockon should light- again, as long a track is powered.

Also I might be missing something, we are lacking details, but I think the only insulated rail is that piece of tubular. I think I might be able to see insulating plastic pins, at the junctions to the fastrack to tubular adapters. I'm just not seeing how the entire section is connected- yet insulated.

Again, I might be missing a detail, but I'm somewhat doubting the whole section is both connected and insulated? Possible, but again, some custom mods at the track joints would be required?

So again, some detail on how the section is insulated, because I have concerns. Yes, the rail of the tubular is insulated from the ties, I can see that, but not the other places and sections of how that rail is insulated in the fastrack. If using the 5 inch insulated sections, on either side of the level grade crossing- that would just insulate that section, not the tubular.

On a bigger monitor where I could zoom in, I'm just not seeing the details or insulated joint??

Clearly, I can see the tubular insulated cardboard in the rail ties, but then the pins, I just am not seeing the start of the section?

You can use a circuit like this for incandescent bulb crossing signals.

You can tweak the values of the 3300uf caps to adjust the flash rate.

Vernon er. al.

Regarding my improvised insulated track:from left too right - fast track transition piece, non-insulated

insulated tubular track with fiber between it ang the transition piece  

the next piece is a home-made insulated fast track  with the bar connecting the outside rails removed

I believe the outside rails on the crossover are isolated The final piece is a fast track block piece. I removed the wire connecting the two parts of the outside rail

Several of you pointed out that O was w using the wrong Oint on the clamp-on to attach the outside rail

the green light does not light because I am using aux power  I only used the lighted lock-on because it’s the only one I have (I don’t use them on the tubular layout in the basement)  

Since I corrected the the hook up to the lock on IT IS WORKING!