MTH F40 PS1 Repair

you can try to isolate the motor from the electronics, take a 9 v battery and use test leads to see if the motor will come to life.  just touch the leads to the two points on the motor.  if the motor spins then you should test the amperage.  It would be between 100 and 200 ma.  this way you can determine if the motor is the issue or the boards.  If the boards are the issue, contact GGG on the forum he is the best with PS1!

I will give that a try. Thank you

...that the one with the cracked nose? ...I was spying that one.

Yes that was the one. I figured it was a good deal if I can get it running. Also it will make a nice project.

If only the front motor isn't working, that would indicate the electronics are not the issue, the motors are in parallel in those.

When I receive the unit in the mail I will give a full review if what's wrong. All it said in the post was that the front motor is not working. The rear works.

I was watching that one both times..I want an F40 but I passed...good thing I guess cause I would've cut off a fellow member doing so.

Figured acetate for the front windows, bypass the front truck is it was too much trouble and glue the body....you got any plastruct/tenax glue?...worked great on my mth doodlebug which somebody dropped{8 cracks-no missing pieces}.

I will buy that glue. I'm sure it's a easy fix especially that I am painting it. It's just trying to get the front truck to turn

I can fix it for you if you want  Think we live close.

Ok everyone. The unit arrived today and I think I got a pretty good deal on this. Everything on the unit is operational except for the front motor. I isolated the front motor and hooked it up to a 9v battery and the wheels turned with ease. All I need I am guessing is just a front motor. As for other misc parts I need a windshield and the plastic inserts that simulate the head lights and ditch lights. However this unit will be repainted from amtrak 399 to metro north railroad unit 1222. 1222 is not a registered f40ph on the MNRR roster. It is the day I asked my gf to marry me an being that she enjoys the hobby with me I know she would lie this. Thanks everyone for there help.

 

If the battery hookup turned the wheels with ease, why do you need a motor?

I took it to mean that when he removed the motor, the wheels spun freely - indicating that they were not a problem.  But I guess it would help if the original poster could clarify.

What else can it be? When the wires are hooked up to the front motor they will not turn. When i disconnected them and used them with a 9v battery the wheels turned with ease.

if the motor turned, it still could be bad, you need to test it in a circuit to test the amperage.  I have an articulated I am working on.  When the engine has no cars the motors work fine.  but once weight is applied the front motor stalls. 

 

You need to set up a simple circuit, the 9 v battery and the Mulitmeter in series, with the motor,  someone correct me if Im wrong but it should measure 100-200 mA.  the motor might still be bad.  I might have a used motor, I will check. 

I am going to have a firum member take a look at it when he has time. I am a rookie at the mechanics of how these units run but I am a fast learner and I am always up for knowledge.

I could be a broken wire to that motor.  So you test the continuity from the board connector to the motor end.  G

I took everthing apart and all connections appear to be good. This unit under the hood looks new to me. I took off the front motor and i hooked it up to a 9v battery and she wont turn at all. Could this sum up that the front motor is shot? I have a part number that is on it. RS-365SH and also RN499419.

On MTH's site the motor part number is BE-0000046, however this part is discontinued. I believe the new part number for the motor is BE - 0000049. Can anyone confirm this?

If the motor doesn't run connected directly to a 9V battery, it's almost certainly bad.

Thanks Again John!  However my final task is to order the correct motor. The part number on the F40's part diagram is obsolete. I was doing some research online and I believe the new part number is BE-0000049. However I am uncertain

I'd probably opt to call MTH parts directly and get the correct cross-reference, or possibly one of the MTH techs here can cast some light on the issue.

That would be the ol kiss of death for the front motor if it won't turn when hooked directly with a 9v battery...touch another to it to make sure. When done put the chassis on the track and with power applied...block the chassis from moving...check the voltage from the fron truck wires to make sure it's getting voltage. Check the back motor too to see that it's getting the same voltage and you'll elimanate the board as being any problem...don't take long to check each as you don't want to trash the back one too.

If you have any test leads that might be a getter way to go...put the chassis on its side, hook one transformer lead to a center roller and the other transformer lead to a truck frame and give it enough juice to get the wheels rolling- then check voltage at the motor posts. A truck frame "should" be a good enough spot...anyone wish to add to that idea. 

Bano...you can do this with the right tools. a little knowledge and help here.

BTW- I forgot, is that an early QSI{non battery} or a proto1? Don't forget that these MTHs are picky about bad/low batteries...keep yours charged or install a red BCR.

This is where the test roller blocks come in handy.  You don't risk cooking anything from stalling a motor.