I am having trouble with the MTH G.N. R-2 articulated. I cannot get it out of neutral. I have all the sounds etc. but it won't move. I tried to work with the manual, but can't seem to get the engine to move. This engine is a Proto Sound 2, with the nine volt battery system. Right now I have a regular alkaline battery as suggested, and it has caused no problems until today. I have the MTH 4000 transformer, but do not have DCS. Any help or ideas?? Thanks.
Jeff
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Jeff,
When my PS3 Imperial Hudson does that it's because the drawbar connector has come loose at the tender and needs to be pressed back into place. With a PS2 I'm guessing you have the pigtail wire connector that plugs into the engine. Is the connection tight? Also, how long have you been running the alkaline and did you try replacing it.
S
Jeff,
When my PS3 Imperial Hudson does that it's because the drawbar connector has come loose at the tender and needs to be pressed back into place. With a PS2 I'm guessing you have the pigtail wire connector that plugs into the engine. Is the connection tight? Also, how long have you been running the alkaline and did you try replacing it.
S
Put the engine on a track without DCS, and connect the Z4000 to the track. Turn on the power, about 10-12 volts, and let the engine go through the start up routine. Tap the whistle button once, and the bell button five times. It should give 2 toots of the horn, if you do it correctly, this resets the loco to the factory default settings. In the event that the loco is locked in neutral, tap the whistle button once, and the bell button three times, should get the two toots of the whistle. Try moving the loco. If it doesn't work, try a couple times; if still no success, shut the loco down, and restart it. With the power at ten volts, push the direction button once, loco will be in forward mode, hold the loco so it doesn't run off your work area, and wiggle the tether, and the tether plug where it goes into the back of the loco. If it tries to run, you found the trouble. Changing the tether plug and tether isn't expensive, about $25 for parts and an hour's labor. Keep us posted!
Put the engine on a track without DCS, and connect the Z4000 to the track. Turn on the power, about 10-12 volts, and let the engine go through the start up routine. Tap the whistle button once, and the bell button five times. It should give 2 toots of the horn, if you do it correctly, this resets the loco to the factory default settings. In the event that the loco is locked in neutral, tap the whistle button once, and the bell button three times, should get the two toots of the whistle. Try moving the loco. If it doesn't work, try a couple times; if still no success, shut the loco down, and restart it. With the power at ten volts, push the direction button once, loco will be in forward mode, hold the loco so it doesn't run off your work area, and wiggle the tether, and the tether plug where it goes into the back of the loco. If it tries to run, you found the trouble. Changing the tether plug and tether isn't expensive, about $25 for parts and an hour's labor. Keep us posted!
The alkaline is only for short periods. It won't charge, so most likely it is below voltage and needs to be replaced. Put a new battery in and test.
You really need to get a good new rechargeable battery installed. That is an old PS-2 5V board and if you kill the board, the repair is about $250 plus for new system. I have had to upgrade 3 of those engines. G
Put the engine on a track without DCS, and connect the Z4000 to the track. Turn on the power, about 10-12 volts, and let the engine go through the start up routine. Tap the whistle button once, and the bell button five times. It should give 2 toots of the horn, if you do it correctly, this resets the loco to the factory default settings. In the event that the loco is locked in neutral, tap the whistle button once, and the bell button three times, should get the two toots of the whistle. Try moving the loco. If it doesn't work, try a couple times; if still no success, shut the loco down, and restart it. With the power at ten volts, push the direction button once, loco will be in forward mode, hold the loco so it doesn't run off your work area, and wiggle the tether, and the tether plug where it goes into the back of the loco. If it tries to run, you found the trouble. Changing the tether plug and tether isn't expensive, about $25 for parts and an hour's labor. Keep us posted!
I've found that you've sometimes have to try a couple of times to get the taps on the buttons just right. Too slow and you get the whistle, too fast and it doesn't work.
Stuart
The alkaline is only for short periods. It won't charge, so most likely it is below voltage and needs to be replaced. Put a new battery in and test.
You really need to get a good new rechargeable battery installed. That is an old PS-2 5V board and if you kill the board, the repair is about $250 plus for new system. I have had to upgrade 3 of those engines. G
Yes, but allow it to charge for 45-60secs before trying to change direction. G
The alkaline is only for short periods. It won't charge, so most likely it is below voltage and needs to be replaced. Put a new battery in and test.
You really need to get a good new rechargeable battery installed. That is an old PS-2 5V board and if you kill the board, the repair is about $250 plus for new system. I have had to upgrade 3 of those engines. G
I am having trouble with the MTH G.N. R-2 articulated. I cannot get it out of neutral. I have all the sounds etc. but it won't move. I tried to work with the manual, but can't seem to get the engine to move. This engine is a Proto Sound 2, with the nine volt battery system. Right now I have a regular alkaline battery as suggested, and it has caused no problems until today. I have the MTH 4000 transformer, but do not have DCS. Any help or ideas?? Thanks.
Jeff
I am having trouble with the MTH G.N. R-2 articulated. I cannot get it out of neutral. I have all the sounds etc. but it won't move. I tried to work with the manual, but can't seem to get the engine to move. This engine is a Proto Sound 2, with the nine volt battery system. Right now I have a regular alkaline battery as suggested, and it has caused no problems until today. I have the MTH 4000 transformer, but do not have DCS. Any help or ideas?? Thanks.
Jeff
The program button on the Z4000 is strictly for PS/1, it won't help you.
The Alkaline battery being in there that long may have cooked the charging circuit, you shouldn't use them long term.
I'd first put it on the track with the BCR exposed and measure the voltage across the BCR after 60 seconds of track power. If you're not getting 8-9 volts DC there after the delay, the charging circuit may have been cooked. If so, you likely are going to have a problem. I'm presuming you did check the motor harness and insure it's firmly seated?
When you try to reverse direction, does the tender backup light come on and off as you interrupt power? Does the sound remain running for at least a few seconds when you remove power from the track?
I think he got it fixed. G
I think that post slipped in while I was typing. 
by 2 hrs:-)!
by 2 hrs:-)!
You must have a different watch than I do. Where do you see the two hours?
The program button on the Z4000 is strictly for PS/1, it won't help you.
The Alkaline battery being in there that long may have cooked the charging circuit, you shouldn't use them long term.
I'd first put it on the track with the BCR exposed and measure the voltage across the BCR after 60 seconds of track power. If you're not getting 8-9 volts DC there after the delay, the charging circuit may have been cooked. If so, you likely are going to have a problem. I'm presuming you did check the motor harness and insure it's firmly seated?
When you try to reverse direction, does the tender backup light come on and off as you interrupt power? Does the sound remain running for at least a few seconds when you remove power from the track?
Glad it all worked out in the end. 
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