Symptom

#1 – Engine starts up and reports three clank sounds 

Affected Engines ******** All PS-1 engines

Occurs when the operator attempts to move the engine by using the direction button or by turning the throttle off and on again in order to reverse direction. The low battery condition causes the memory to become scrambled. The engine reports the problem with three clank sounds.

Fix :    The memory chip must be re-programmed by MTH or an authorized service center.

#2 – Engine starts up and does not move

       - PS-1 engines produced in 1995/1996

The low battery condition causes the software to de-select the engine and it never leaves the RESET position.

Requires installation of a new memory chip containing a software update which prevents

the problem from reoccuring

See similar in todays post: 

Mikes Train House W/PS1 Battery Change & Locomotive Won't Run

Mort

Just to confirm you followed this step: Make sure you are applying less than 10 volts when you first try cycling it out of reset mode. Once the loco starts moving, you can increase the throttle.

If it still won’t leave reset, it could be an incompatibility problem with the transformer. Some original Protosounds locomotives won’t run on chopped-wave outputs of modern transformers, such as those using any of Lionel’s current controllers. These locomotives prefer pure-wave output of postwar transformers or the MTH Z-4000.

If you are using a pure-wave transformer, it could be a battery problem. Replace the battery with one of MTH’s specified replacements or opt for a BCR from J and W Electronics.

Mort, thank you for the information and the link to the other thread. I'm following that one also.

Jim, thank you for your response, I am getting two dings after the prime mover starts, when I power up. I'm using a MTH Z 1000 transformer. I take it I should apply a volt meter to the track to monitor my volt output when trying to power this up. I'll see about getting a BCR from J&W if you think that's what I need to get the switcher out of reset.

Rusty

Are you powering up on a test track?  or a full loop like a layout?

Some Protosound locomotives will not start up with a Z-1000 on a test track.  Some will not start up with a Z-1000 at all.  If you have access to a Z-4000 transformer, try starting up using between 8-10 volts.  Then after about 15 seconds advance the throttle to 10-12 volts and try the direction button.  

bruce

Strange as it seems, MTH’s Z-1000 has a cut-wave output and will cause problems with those select original Protosounds locomotives. Mind you, it’s only some of the PS1 locomotives that exhibit this stubbornness. Most of mine work fine using a Lionel ZW-L, but not my 1996 Premier K4 (20-3018-1). It won’t come out of reset on cut-wave controllers, but runs flawlessly on a Z-4000.

It must have a fully charged and healthy battery first of all.  If in doubt replace it or give the engine 15 min or so at 10 volts or less to bring the battery up.  If the problem still persists it's possible the charging circuit is corrupt. 

As mentioned above, transformers are an all important factor in getting these older engines to run and following MTH's list of acceptable transformers is a good place to start.

Hope you're making progress and get the little guy running.

Bruce, Jim, and Charly, thank you for your responses and information, it is very much appreciated! I have a Lionel VW and my Dad has a couple of ZW's would any of those work to bring this loco out of it's slumber?

Also, Jim, what is the process to convert this locomotive to conventional operation, if I'm unable to bring it out of reset mode? I don't mind the rail sounds, but it's something I can live without, if need be. A horn and bell would be nice, but, not necessary either. I would just like to get it running.

Rusty

Those transformers would work. 

And I wouldn’t downgrade the locomotive based on its inability to work on cut-wave transformers. It makes more sense to simply use a different transformer. 

Jim, thank you for this information, good to know I can use a Lionel VW to hopefully get this locomotive out of reset mode. Another question, If I am successful and get it running, will it then run with a Z1000? or will I need to run it with the VW? Would I need to add TVS diodes between the VW and the track? I would like to purchase a Z4000, but, that will have to wait for now.

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I appreciate it very much!

Rusty

Stick to the pure wave transformer. The MTH boards hate cut wave.

TVS protection circuits are a good idea always.