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I am building a o gauge layout. I bought some MTH signals. I am using Fastrack on my layout. Could someone please tell me how to connect them? Do I need to buy a special piece of track or something else to make them work on my fastrack? Can some one even tell me where to get a diagram to follow what I am to do. This is my first time with trying to mix the MTH and Lionel fastrack.

Last edited by Angelbaby
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What signals do you have (model numbers)? 

 

You need to choose a method for detecting train presence to activate the signal to change color.  This brief article gives a nice summary of the various methods.

 

http://www.tcaetrain.org/articles/operating/BLOCKS/

 

I'd say the 2 most common are Insulated Rail method and the Optoelectronic method.  Most MTH signals I've seen have instructions on the package that suggest using the Optoelectronic method such as their ITAD (Infrared Track Activation Device).

 

Some guys prefer to manual control and use an electrical toggle switch to change signal colors at-will irrespective of the presence or absence of a train.  Other guys want the signaling system to control train movement such as automatically stopping trains approaching a red signal.

 

So it kind of depends on what you want to do with the signals beyond simply connecting them.  Keep asking questions and provide as much information as you feel comfortable sharing about your layout/equipment.

I agree with stan2004. This signal has three lights that turn on and off, so an insulated track section will not work. That section can complete a circuit and turn an accessory on and off (a semaphore, a crossing gate, an automatic gateman) but it can't turn three lights on and off in sequence without a relay and lots of extra wiring.

 

MTH instructions recommend an ITAD or a RailKing mechanical TAD, as stan2004 posted. They are your easiest options.

 

If you don't have a manual, go to MTH Trains. Click on "Product Locator." Type in "30-11036." When that signal comes onscreen, click on that number. At the lower right are several icons. Click on the icon that resembles an open book. The manual will come onscreen. Scroll down to the wiring instructions.

To be clear, you have this signal?

mth prr signal bridge instructions

In which case, no, you do not need to use an ITAD even though that's what the instructions suggest.  You can instead use a relay module triggered by an insulated rail section(s).

Suitable relay modules are around $15 each (vs. $30 or so for an ITAD).   One of us can provide more details if you confirm what you have and your available track/accessory power source.

Or, if you don't mind some basic wiring (though no soldering), you should also be able to do this for about $5 using low-priced eBay modules.

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  • mth prr signal bridge instructions
Last edited by stan2004

Yes, that is the signal I have!  in terms of my power source, forgive me if I don't know the correct name here, I have an older 500 watt or so Lionel controller that has the two separate control handles if that makes any sense?  I would use the one side for the layout, and the other for the accessories...  What I a most confused is about the wiring

It is odd that MTH only chose to show the ITAD method with the signal bridge.  I don't believe MTH sells a suitable relay module for the insulated trigger method.  But there are several off-the-shelf relay modules that don't require soldering - for example Azatrax has one for about $10 (plus shipping):

azatrax mrapr

The Azatrax application note shows it hooked up to a 2-aspect Red-Green so I modified it above to show how it could attach to your PRR 3-wire signal head.  Your 2 control handles would be what they call "Train Power" and "Accessory Power".

If this is the only insulated-rail accessory you have, then buying one or a few of these ~$10 relay modules is the closest exit.  OTOH if you have a handful or more accessories that are controlled by insulated-rail triggering, I have posted OGR threads on alternatives that get the cost/relay down to ~$2 per relay and we can re-visit if there's interest.

 

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Last edited by stan2004

Clean wheels and track. I'll bet if you "press down" on your test car as you roll thru insulated section on bench that chatter drops dramatically.

I think of this like flickering lighted passenger cars.  Heavyweights tend to flicker less because they are, umm, heavy making better wheel-track contact. But cleaning wheels and track always helps.

And if the flickering is still unacceptable then switch to DC technology (LEDs) where capacitors can store energy to demote flicker.

Likewise, after cleaning, if relay chatter in insulated rail triggering is still unacceptable then switch to DC relay technology where capacitors can store energy to demote chatter. There have been many OGR threads on this alternative. GRJ's ITSD mentioned earlier is one option that uses a DC relay and capacitor to demote chatter.

I was just down this road a few months ago with trying to wire an MTH signal.  I purchased a Azatrax MRD-1 to control the signal but didn't buy the relay at the same time.  After talking to Azatrax (I believe Jeff is the owners name) I got what I needed.  He was very helpful in working with me to get everything up and running. 

MRD1-MTH-2light-wiring

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Just installed some MTH signals on my layout as a pair, I used an insulated rail section as a trigger for one of GunnerJohns awesome signal drivers I got from Hennings trains. I wired it per the directions they had instead of the ITAD I used the signal driver. Signals work flawlessly with no chatter and no sparking on the rails.

I use the signal drivers for crossing signals and a gateman as well. Bit of extra wiring compared to just the rail but the reliability and no sparking is worth every penny.

@Casper posted:

Only thing being controlled by the insulated rail is the Mth signal bridge lights.

That shouldn't be an issue from track power.

@AGHRMatt posted:

Nice packaging on this unit.

Thanks.  I actually made these initially because our modular club needed a bunch of signal relays.  I was building them on a little wooden block and hand wiring them.  Then I realized that it would be much easier to do a PCB and make the construction job tons easier.

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