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MTH Station Converted to REA Freight House

Matthew JonesMatthew JonesOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Just finished converting the MTH Passenger Station to a REA Freight Warehouse. The MTH Passenger Station is a great kit for kitbashing into other structures. Here are a few photos. I now need to do the scenery and add details.

Added a large freight door. Raised platform to boxcar door level with stone foundation. I added exterior and interior lights. I will try to post a "night" picture.

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The large REA sign is by Light Works USA (Miller Engineering).

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I cut off the side platforms and roofs to reduce the overall footprint of the structure.

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I also reduced the "footprint" of the windows by using a Dremel tool and file to remove some of the extra details on the sills/aprons.

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Matthew JonesMatthew JonesOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Sean,

The stone walls are made with a embossed cardstock product made by Faller. It is nice stuff that I discovered at my local hobby store. It comes in stone, brick, roof and a number of other textures/styles. It looks real as it is a photo of real stone, etc. and the mortar lines are embossed to give it a 3D texture.

These walls are made from their HO Cut Stone 272-170617.

A AMCDaveOGR Forum Member
C&Osteam posted:

Weathering powder and DullCote? Please say more and where can I get these items? I have a shiny water tower that needs weathering. 

My favorite Dullcoat is Testors brand. Any hobby shop or Hobby Lobby should have it. 

Weathering powder is available in many forms and brands. Easiest is kits offered by Tamiya....looks like a ladies eye makeup case.....but rusty browns, grays etc. Comes with it's own brush even. Any artist pencil or art chalks can be used....just rub it on sand paper and brush on. 

A long article could be done on the subject....that's a start omly. 

A AMCDaveOGR Forum Member
Avanti posted:

Yeah, just go to Michael's and buy a simple set of artist chalks. Scrape off what you need with an Xacto knife. For sealing, use clear matte sealant. The cheapest stuff from Walmart is fine.

I agree except for the cheap dullcoat from anywhere. 

Why....I own stock in Testors!!! NO....really.....the Testors dullcoat is a synthetic formula that is made to be safe for ALL paints and surfaces.  The issue with the 'cheap' stuff is it can be a  organic lacquer that is very 'hot' and can actually eat into plastic and some paints. IMHO ONLY.....but spend $100 and hours on a model to have cheap dullcoat ruin it....no thanks. Go to Hobby Lobby with your 40% off coupon and it's just as 'cheap'......but will not eat your model. thx

A AvantiOGR Forum Member
AMCDave posted:
Avanti posted:

Yeah, just go to Michael's and buy a simple set of artist chalks. Scrape off what you need with an Xacto knife. For sealing, use clear matte sealant. The cheapest stuff from Walmart is fine.

the Testors dullcoat is a synthetic formula that is made to be safe for ALL paints and surfaces.  The issue with the 'cheap' stuff is it can be a  organic lacquer that is very 'hot' and can actually eat into plastic and some paints. IMHO ONLY.....but spend $100 and hours on a model to have cheap dullcoat ruin it....no thanks. Go to Hobby Lobby with your 40% off coupon and it's just as 'cheap'......but will not eat your model. thx

I can't really argue with you, for lack of data. I only scratchbuild, and mostly in wood and Bristol Board. I will say that I have never encountered an issue with any clearcoat, but clearly my experience is limited.

Last edited by Avanti
A AMCDaveOGR Forum Member

A number of ways in my tool box. A good fine tooth razor saw is handy. Just a new #11 X-acto can be used to scribe straight lines for the snap method. (score a few times then snap on scribe line) I've used a table saw, band saw and even a hot knife. One method I use most can't, is my 25 watt laser cutter. 

Right now I am sitting at my work desk scribing and snapping plastic sheet of a run of box cars I am building. 

S SmoothdogjakeOGR Forum Member

Was your REA sign a Miller engineering billboard ho scale and you cut the black brackets off the bottom to mount to the wall?   I have that sign and want to mount to wall it comes with two connectors I want to cut the bottom one off and use the through the wall connector but I don’t want the billboard black structure things that are made on the sign...I want to cut them off and want to know if the sign will still work.   Thanks for any any help I can get

 

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