MTH z1000 transformer and power questions

Update - I tried the above without phasing the power, but I did run the common wire between the black inputs of the two terminal blocks. Had roughly an 18v signal across the whole track according to the DCS app, but blew the 10amp quick fuse when trying to reverse the engine back across the switch. Thoughts?

1. The Z-1000 brick main power output is internally connected to its "COM" 14V Accessory screw-terminal.   So the main track voltage and the 14V AC Accessory voltage are already phased.

2.  See above.  They are already connected.  But there is no harm in redundantly connecting the two Blacks of the terminal strips.  This assumes of course that on the Z-1000 track voltage you are using, say, the MTH adapter cable with color-coded banana jacks (red/black)...and that on the Z-1000 Acc output you are connecting "HOT" screw terminal to Red and "COM" screw-terminal to Black.

3. Not sure I understand what you're asking. Adding a lockon in itself does not add power. If the "new" lockon is coming from the terminal strip (as you suggest), this could make for a better electrical connection and possibly better DCS communications … but does not provide more power per se.  If you're talking about a 2nd Z-1000 brick that's another story. 

As for the fuse blowing when reversing the engine.  It's unclear if you're suggesting this only happens when you run a wire between the two black inputs of the two terminal strips?  That would be very curious indeed.  But if the fuse is OK going forward, but only blows in reverse it seems this is some kind of mechanically induced electrical short.  Do you have more than 1 engine, and if so does it do this with all engines?

Is the Z-1000 Controller included in the power configuration? Have you wired directly from the track power barrel jack to the terminal boards without the adapter shown by in Stan's reply?

STAN2004 - The fuse blows only when going in the direction of the green arrow (happens going forward or reverse the same direction) on the attachment. The other three directions through the switch work okay. The red dots are where the track lockons sit. The non-derailment feature works from both sides of the track split. I haven't tried it without the black common wire between the two black terminal block inputs, but can do so if you think it might help. We only have one engine at the moment with another expected at the beginning of February.

MOONMAN - The z-1000 controller isn't included. I am using the barrel jack adapter from the transformer to the fixed input 1 of the tiu. Then there's red and black banana plugs connected from fixed output 1 of the tiu to the track terminal board. This is the only way I've tried it.

I just sent the train through at about 3smph and it appears the train is derailing before the fuse blows and the power is gone. Any tips on keeping a train from derailing when going the direction of the arrow in the attachment from my previous post? I can attach a video if that will help.

BTC - okay - so, I assume that the MTH adaptor was used to convert the barrel to the banana plugs into the TIU?

Some have said that track power barrel connector from the Z - bricks has HOT on the outside and COMMON on the center pin. This gets reversed when plugged directly into the ACC power port of the TIU or by using the adaptor. I can't confirm it.

Which leads back to the reason of asking about the adaptor use. If you cut the barrel off, track power and the ACC power could be out of phase.

So, I should've caught this before, but the rail connections between the switch and the attached piece didn't completely align. One was just proud enough to knock the train off when coming from that one direction. This being my first time I just assumed I wired something incorrectly. Thanks again for the assistance.

Good news! 

It started sounding more like a switch issue - RealTrax tip - when you can - hold the pieces in a V when connecting them together having the rails ends nearly touching - then begin to fold the V flat and press the two pieces together 

You'll find this smoothly connects the tracks and aligns the rails. The last few pieces to close a loop are a pain, so, I just elevate each enough to begin to make the connection by putting my hands away from the joint. This still works better than a flat lateral push together.

8x10 layout-how many linear feet of track?

you mentioned power loss and adding another lock-on

Is your wiring run in series it parallel?