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Over the years I've made a lot of stuff for my O Gauge layouts including building things from simple kits or making things from scratch.  But I never have actually taken a perfectly good MTH building and cut it apart or kit bashed it into another type of building.  (Correct me if "kit bash" is not the right term for this.  Is "building bash" more appropriate?)

Thanks to a previous topic https://ogrforum.com/...rt-mth-bank-building, I have cut apart my MTH Bank using a sharp hobby razor saw and a Dremel grinding disc to make a union station building.   What's different is I decided to use only one building instead of two.  Why?  For two reasons:  1.  A 20 1/2" wide station fits the space I have available on my layout, 2.  If I screw it up, I'm only destroying one bank ($75 to $100) and not two ($150 to $200)!

So here is what it looks like so far.  I used a piece of wood with clamps as a straight edge every step of the way.  That allowed my cuts to be clean and straight.  I also practiced grinding pieces of scrap material before I used my Dremel tool on the actual building parts.

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My next step is to use zap-a-gap with an accelerator to glue the parts together.  And then I will use plastic weld to fuse them together along the seams, so they stay that way. Then I need to cut a roof and a back wall, paint them and install them.

Any ideas, suggestions and/or comments are most welcomed here.

Mike

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Very nice job so far.  Can't wait to see the finished product.  Can you use the existing roof and cut it into the appropriate size pieces?

I also turned my MTH Bank into a train station.  Nothing as elaborate as yours, I kept the building intact, just cut a large opening in the side wall, now front, and used a sliced up Ameritowne Bank flat to create the entrances.

@RRDOC posted:

Great job! You already figured out the most important part of the project:  Clamp a straight edge to make your saw cuts straight and accurate.  That MTH plastic is a bear to cut through.

Bob

I totally agree.  Another important part, it seems to me, is making it square so when it is time to make the roof, floor and back wall, everything lines up.  I used paper and a pencil and drew the outline of the structure.  I then lined everything up on the paper outline and then glued it together.  This shows the paper and lining up the first piece. 

PAPER GUIDE

I sincerely appreciate the feedback.  Thanks, guys.

Mike

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Thanks, Earl.

I glued it instantly with dabs of zap-a-gap and the kicker pictured here.  I then glued all the seams from the inside with Plastruct plastic weld and let it completely dry overnight.  Both products are ideas I got from Harry Heike's model building demos on Wednesday nights with Mr. Muffins Zoom call.  Now I know why Harry uses zap-a-gap first and then the plastic weld.  You can pick this puppy up in one piece now without it falling apart!

Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the first city bank decal?

GLUE

Mike

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Last edited by IRON HORSE

Update:

I built a substructure out of 1/2" scrap plywood. I glued it together and nailed it with a nail gun and wood glue.  Overkill?  Perhaps.  But I don't have to worry about the fragile joints falling apart.  I will screw the gray plastic MTH shell to the substructure and it will be a solid structure.

I then used scrap pieces of paper and taped them along the top roof line to create a template.

My next steps: 1.  Cut the roof out of 1/8" masonite scrap using the template, 2.  paint the plywood substructure gray and the masonite roof flat black.

The clock you see is the Lionel clock I bought from Trainworld.  Cool, isn't it?  I put a new battery in it (it was old stock from 2015 so the battery was dead -- Trainworld, you should have given me the heads up!) and it works with watch precision.

Mike

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@IRON HORSE posted:

Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the first city bank decal?

Looks great! I've always liked that Lionel clock too. It will be a nice addition to the scene. In terms of removing the bank decal, I've had luck removing lettering from plastic rollingstock using rubbing alcohol and a magic eraser. Perhaps the same would apply here.

The key was to go very slowly and take your time. At first it seemed like nothing was happening, but a few minutes later, it was gone.

Your biggest risk with the magic eraser may be slightly discoloring the grey plastic. It might be worth testing first on one of the interior pieces of plastic.

Last edited by Alex W
@Alex W posted:


Your biggest risk with the magic eraser may be slightly discoloring the grey plastic. It might be worth testing first on one of the interior pieces of plastic.

Alex,

Thanks for the input.  I tried a magic erasure on a scrap piece last weekend, and it does shine it up a little.  I purchased some Micro sol decal remover from the Kalmbach store, and I am going to try that first.  However, I just read the bottle and it says it may not work with decals with a coating over them, which probably applies here.  Thanks for the rubbing alcohol/magic erasure idea.  That will be step 2. 

Mike

@Ron045 posted:

I painted over mine, but I left the 1934.  I liked that.

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You could paint a rectangle patch over it and replace with a new decal of your station name or the city name or even the railroad name.

Ron

Ron, thanks for your comments.  Your post inspired me for this project before I started: 2/22/2019 Update - How can I paint a building that looks like marble? | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

I've been very careful in cutting because I am trying to avoid painting the building for now because, if you look at some of the photos I posted, you can see I still have a lot of work to do the finish laying track and road bed on my 2nd and 3rd levels of my layout.

But I saved a PDF of your topic because some day down the road I may come back and marble my station in an attempt to make it look like your building. If I were to come remotely close to your look, that would be a major achievement -- love your station!

I've considered making a little rectangle sign like you suggested.  That will probably be step 3 if step 1 or step 2 don't work out for me.  As far as keeping the 1934, I agreed.  In fact, I could have added that roof section but it made my building too tall for the space I have on my layout.  Here is what it would look like:

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The height would hit the bridge over my building.

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I was pleased with how the "First City Bank" decal/paint came off using Magic Erasure, Microsol, Sprayway and some good old fashioned elbow grease (actually, it was more arm and hand then elbow and a lot of it).  By the time I finished a Saturday morning marathon phone call, the lettering was gone.  I actually think the Sprayway glass cleaner may have been a key because the small bit of alcohol, I think, helped a lot.  The process left a small bit of sheen but really not noticeable. 

So here are some photos showing the signage gone, the roof and back assembled and painted, and the Union Station Miller Engineering signage on top.  My next steps are to add LED lighting inside and drill a slot through the roof for the Union Station sign wiring.

Mike

T3T4T5T6T7

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So what are you going to kit-bash next? You know it gets addictive!

Thanks, bigtruckpete.  I'm thinking how some buildings can be cut in half and you can use the back as a building flat on a different part of the layout.  I've always heard or read or saw layouts where this has been done but I've always been afraid to try it because, let's face it, these buildings aren't cheap.  But, I agree, this is yet another fun part of the hobby and once you jump in, you're in for good.  Addictive!  I've really enjoyed the planning as much as actually the bashing. 

Mike

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