Problem fixed! see below...060 Fastrack remote switch only has power when caboose pick up rollers are on either end of the switch track

Might be a bad connection from track power connection. Try aux power and see?

Thanks CJACK. I don't think it's a power connection because I removed the switch and put another one in its place. That one had track power. But I think I'll give it a try.

I meant the path for track power inside the switch might be at fault. And trying aux power might bypass the fault proving the issue is inside the switch 

Assuming Chuck hasn't nailed it (likely has)

Disconnect the controller to rule it out, even if it works for the other turnout. It may narrow things to that circuit, or eliminate it as a suspect.

Used turnout? Or a new one? New to you?

If it was used, but new to you; maybe it was modified for use on a block?

  A small short, on "the other side" is possible too, depending where your track power comes in. Some shorts are only capable of draining minor amperage, only affecting "that spot". But that draw can also sometimes be "overcome" by delivering the power over a stronger connection. Adding the roller bridge improves the connection and things light up till that bridge is gone.

Last micro-short I found (by accident) gave me a blister it was so hot. Single roller cars would go out for a split second  there. Series bulbs in cars were cooking on occasion when they bridged over it. But the loco's didn't really pay it any mind, so I thought "dirty track there". About a few inches from the short, is were it dimmed slightly, then a blink. (the short was then between one feed, and the roller.  and the loco was eating most of the power from the  feed on the opposite side of the short. So while cleaning with one hand, I rested my other on the rails and found the short (ouch)

 Tube track center rail insulator there, but the idea remains the same. 1 stray wire strand from trimming wires for hookup could do that too, and never trip a breaker.

remove the screws on the bottom cover (16 or so and try to not lose any). Check the tabs that connect to the center rail.

A meter to check continuity of the center rail and the wires to the board would help to find the bad connection.

The crimped connections inside the Fastrack switch are a common source of power issues.  I solder all the ones that either connect to internal circuitry, or will be required to carry current.

Problem fixed! When I was packing up the switch to return it I noticed I had changed the switch stand to the straight location. Can't believe I forgot that. Put it back to the curved side and it worked. So I relocated it to the straight side again. Made sure the copper contact rings in the switch were contacting the ones on the switch stand. Now it works. Thank you all for you thoughtful suggestions. 

 Congat's!

   But did you just happen to forget and not try the controller in both directions> Or, does FT "lose track" of its positioning if changed that way?