Need wiring tips--stuck for now

Doe you have, or plan to have DCS or TMCC on your layout? 

In any event, one key to good operation is to use 14-gauge wire for longer runs, cut your track into blocks, each fed through a toggle switch, and each block not more than, say, 6'.  If running conventional, the more such blocks, the better your control.

Do not feed accessories or track switches from the tracks.

FYI, for DCS, no more than one feed to center rail per block.  Also, be sure to have many ground feeds.

Hi Santa Fe VA,

There's too much information available. You could start here to get a starting point.

Some thoughts from me. The z4000 should be capable of running your trains. A channel for each track. One CW-80 should handle your accessories. The accessory posts. Use the second CW-80 if you have some picky accessories that want a different voltage to work correctly.

A 6 or 8 wire buss system under the table let's access power for whatever where you need it.

Common is common is common. They should all tie to the common wire on the buss.

The AC Hot or power sources are separate.

Lionel offers video tutorials on these topics. Search through them for the topics that interest you.

Wire is available at the home stores in various colors. Black is Common. Red and other colors power. Gray or Green is Earth connection(if needed). The automotive stores have .110 quick disconnect connectors and wire(called primary wire for auto use) for the FasTrack. MTH has lock-ons. Terminal strips can be found at the home stores.

Power feeds at 4'-6' work. Hole through table, up from buss.

I suggest 12g wire for the track power buss and common and 16 for the accessory buss. 16g for the track feeds from the buss and 18g-22g for the accessories.

Hide the wire next to or in the elevated supports.

You can add blocks later, if needed. 

Hope that helps some. Let us know how you are doing. Have Fun!

Think of the future, think of the future, provide room for you thoughts to morph as you learn more. 

IMO, the best thing to do at this point is to provide fully insulated blocks for the DCS star wire pattern even if you are going to run conventional for the foreseeable future. 

14gauge wire OK for your size pike.

Label your wire runs for trouble shooting.

I am working on a layout now where the owner wants to switch a conventional pike to DCS.  Big buncha reconfiguring!!

What make trains do you plan to run?

That will point you to the proper wiring approach to use.

get yourself some good wiring books, they are even available for Conventional operation and DCS or TMCC

This booklet I just posted in the above archives was Dad's and is handy when starting a layout.  How to Operate Lionel Trains and Accessories - 1954

Here's a quick follow up with more questions.

After reading the advice and recommendations from the posters to this topic, I decided the best first step would be to:  Purchase a wiring book.

So I did.  I am about 1/3 of the way through it and many things are starting to make sense.  A few more questions....for now:

1>when hooking up uncouplers or blocks, is it preferred to hook those up to the main line coming from the transformer or to the track directly.  Same question applies to turnouts or "switches".

2>When hooking up accessories, what do you do if you need to extend the original wiring so that it will make the connection?

3>Where is a good place to purchase the various types of wiring needed for track, accessories, and blocks?  I'm thinking Radio Shack might get expensive, other suggestions?  Same question for the wiring assemblies with the screws, toggle switches, and the other items that I can't remember what they are called.

The book also suggested using speaker wire for accessories--does it work and is it safe?

4>When I wire the loop to run underneath the layout, is it best to use only as much as I need or to make it bigger in case I expand later?

Any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Santa Fe:  I'll try to answer some of your questions:

By blocks I assume you mean the blocks into which the trackage is divided.  Thos of course must be hooked to the mainline, or to a separate "handle" or TIU ouput if you wish.  Everything else should be wired to the transformer, never to the track, except for connections used for signalling or switch non-derailing operation.

If accessry wiring isn't long enough, simply add wire as needed.

I buy wire at my local Lowes.  For powering track, I use 14-gauge stranded, for I have a large layout and run many trains.  For smnaller layouts, 16-gauge may be adequate.

The speaker wire is ok for accessories, but I suggest not using any wire smaller than 18-gauge.

I don't know what you mean by "loop," but it is well-nigh impossible to use too large a wire.  If you contemplate future expansion, use larger gauge wire.  My layour has a looped (both ends connect to transformers' U terminals) common ground bus going all around the layout, for which I use #12

I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this but your train will slow down in the curves unless you increase the voltage or have cruise control.

  They do not slow down because of the voltage lowering (lower voltage will slow them down also) , they slow down because it is harder to pull a train thru a curve.

     Don

Wire supplies:

Both Home Depot and Lowes have a variety of wire in various sizes (gauges) and colors. It can be purchased by the foot or in prepackaged lengths.

OGR also offers wire that works very well. Need to check their website, but I think they only have #14 & #16. That is what I am using. 

Wish they would start offering #18, I would use that as well!

Hint to Rich & Allan!