Net effect of rail section to rail section jumpers?

I seriously doubt that anything remotely close to 16ga is actually required to jump the 1/16" gap between track sections!  I typically use #24 solid wire, it's much easier to solder and deal with.  If you look at the voltage drop across that 1/16" gap with #24 wire, I doubt you will be able to find it, too many leading zeros!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I seriously doubt that anything remotely close to 16ga is actually required to jump the 1/16" gap between track sections!

In that video he is saying that conductivity around the entire layout is improved by doing the dual jumpers between each section.   I have read a few posts on this forum where some members do that on their layouts and I am pretty sure they are using 16 Gage jumpers as well.

Is all of this about poor rail joining?

John

@Craftech posted:

In that video he is saying that conductivity around the entire layout is improved by doing the dual jumpers between each section.   I have read a few posts on this forum where some members do that on their layouts and I am pretty sure they are using 16 Gage jumpers as well.

Is all of this about poor rail joining?

John

Yes, it sure is.

Ray

@Craftech posted:

I have read a few posts on this forum where some members do that on their layouts and I am pretty sure they are using 16 Gage jumpers as well.

Whatever blows your hair back.  You can use whatever size wire you like, I'll do the same.

John,

I am not sure the jumpers are even necessary in the first place, but if I were to use them I would probably use 18 or 20 Gauge and only on the center rails. 

Do you use them?  Or I should say, did you use them when you had Fastrack?

John

Nope, never used them unless there was a specific need.  The usual time I have a jumper is if I have a cut rail that I later change my mind.   All my Fastrack layouts were constantly changing, one of the few good things I have to say about Fastrack, so soldering to the tracks was not normally something you wanted to do.

Wow that's ridiculous. Nothing "FasT" about that.

I guess that shows how much confidence Ryan has in the quality of product that he sells.

A ton of extra work that could be avoided by making sure the track connections are making good contact.

I would however, recommend 16 or 14 ga feeders at least every 10 feet soldered directly to those hookup tabs underneath the fastrack.

Those two methods have given me 17 years of reliable running and consistent voltage levels across my entire layout. Its also important to have a good transformer too, don't expect a Lionchief power pack to keep up with a growing layout,

I have 15 years experience running FasTrack and have never needed to use jumpers.

Ron

I have Fastrack that unfortunately due to medical issues was stored in an unheated garage in Upstate Western New York State winters and humid summers for 6 years, and the better pieces only tarnished, quite a bit badly rusted and had to be thrown out. I have been soldering 18 gauge jumper wires both hot center rail and one common from one piece of track to the next one and 18 gauge track feeders every 6 pieces of track from 12 gauge buss wire that loops around the entire layout from the transformer fused after the transformer, and transient spike protection at the transformer and at the track at every track feeder. It has definitely improved conductivity on the Fastrack. I have needed to hit quite a few of the track tabs with a Dremel fiber reinforced cutting wheel disc so they will accept solder. It's a pain but I don't have the money to replace all the track from my former layout that needed to be torn down for a hospital bed for me 6 years ago. Otherwise it would had been Gargraves Track and Ross Switches knowing now what I wished I knew back when I got back into the hobby again. It wouldn't run trains from one feeder to the next feeder without stopping until I started soldering the jumper wires. The track has all been cleaned with WD-40, CRC, Alcohol, and Lacquer Thinner using greenback sponges and shop rags to clean the track several times and track joiners cleaned and bent for tight connections but still needed the jumper wires to run without stopping. Almost done with the outer track, then the inner track is next. The newer Weller Soldering Tips certainly don't last like the old ones used to either, can't blame China on the Soldering Tips, they're made in Mexico, definitely cheaper metal and they always break right behind the tip on the lower stem from the Weller Soldering Gun. I wish I could find someone that made soldering tips for Weller Model 9400 100/140 watt Soldering Guns made in USA!

@Gary P posted:

The newer Weller Soldering Tips certainly don't last like the old ones used to either, can't blame China on the Soldering Tips, they're made in Mexico, definitely cheaper metal and they always break right behind the tip on the lower stem from the Weller Soldering Gun. I wish I could find someone that made soldering tips for Weller Model 9400 100/140 watt Soldering Guns made in USA!

When I run out of the Weller tips, I dig in my closet and find some #12 solid wire.  That's what you find in most Romex for home wiring.  I bend a tip out of that and it's as good as the Weller tips.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

When I run out of the Weller tips, I dig in my closet and find some #12 solid wire.  That's what you find in most Romex for home wiring.  I bend a tip out of that and it's as good as the Weller tips.

Add that to the memory bank!

Thank you John.

Ray

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

When I run out of the Weller tips, I dig in my closet and find some #12 solid wire.  That's what you find in most Romex for home wiring.  I bend a tip out of that and it's as good as the Weller tips.

Thank you John! You have all the answers! I will definitely try that. I have the brass (like steel wool) tip cleaner unit, use it to clean off the tip after every solder joint, clean it again when going to use it and tin it before use, but they are just junk compared to the old ones I had before for my old Weller Soldering Gun that finally fried itself after 45 years that they were definitely made in the USA.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

When I run out of the Weller tips, I dig in my closet and find some #12 solid wire.  That's what you find in most Romex for home wiring.  I bend a tip out of that and it's as good as the Weller tips.

Kinda like this ?      I have 2 real Weller tips left I'm saving for the rapture.                                     j

Yep, kinda like that.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Yep, kinda like that.

The first time the idea hit me I needed a flat smoothing tip to melt plastic. So I formed one that looked somewhat like this one and pinched the tip together tighter than this  and hammered it flat from the side. Then sharpened the edge with a file.   I think the original Weller tips are made from beryllium copper alloy and you should wear a mask if trying to shape or file them as beryllium is toxic. Copper alloys with more than 2.5% beryllium are considered carcinogenic. Copper springs and non sparking tools are made from beryllium copper as it is very hard.                      j