Skip to main content

Yesterday, without any prior symptoms, sound stopped coming out of my PRR RTR #421 LionChief tender when I put it on the track after a few days of inactivity.  I,found no posts here but remembered that an Amazon reviewer said the tether for their RTR PRR was a weak point and theirs broke down after going through turns on their oval fairly early on in the life of their purchase.  I bought mine last fall.  Well, my new layout has lots of o-31 twists and turns.  Very occasionally yesterday I got a tiny bit of static or an attempt at a bell or chug going around a curve but otherwise silence.  So, I ran the train in the opposite direction to try and determine if it was a loose connction at the tether. Indeed, I got more occassional static this way but still very rarely.  The wheels are clean, by the way, and I saw no visibile loose connections on the tender to the speaker or truck.  I did not open the engine. Next, I looked at which wires appeared to be connected to the speaker and the truck and tried to concoct a way to test whether the tether problem was on the engine or the tender side. (It even involved digging up a old crystal radio kit as a surrogate sound generator :-)

 

THAT was my BIG mistake.  Instead of asking you folks first, like an idiot, I powered my engine (not on any track) with 12 V, attaching the positive to a roller and the negative to the screw on the front coupler (other than the wheels it was the only negative I could find).  Then, in a classic "What could it hurt?" move, I connected pins 2 and 4 (looking and counting left to right from an aerial view of the tethers) between the engine and tender and got an encouraging loud bit of static, or so I thought.  These pins looked like they went to the speaker although the wires did a crossover so I'm not 100% sure. I then tried to fiddle with the handheld remote to try and get the bell to be positioned on and repeated the attempt at connecting the pins. Maybe unrelated (?) tomthe remote but I got no more sound and now my engine won't run at all.  WOOPS.  The front headlight light still comes on but that's it.  I killed my beloved steam engine.

 

So, I will do the walk of shame and take it to my LHS.  So a few questions now:

 

1. If it is easy and cheap enough to fix, is there some way to wire the tether differently so that I won't have to keep fixing it on this or any other LIONChief sets I might buy?

 

2. What the heck did I do to my engine that I promise I'll never, ever do again?

 

3. Since this is a low-end engine, is it worth fixing?  The sad part is I've been planing a fund raising event involving running this and other trains in early fall when the tender proved silent during a test run last night.  So, I will need to fix or replace it if I want to have this event.

 

4. I was going to ask if Lionel warranty applies when you purchase from non-dealer Amazon, but I'm sure my brilliant move with the pins violated any warranty ... Except maybe the tether part, she hopes dreaming.

 

Thanks, in adance.  I may be off-line the rest of the day, but look forward to your replies. 

 

Tomlinson Run RR (self-exhiled to the tender doghouse)

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I should clarify that I tried to connect the apparently correct pins from the engine tether directly to the speaker in the tender, NOT to the equivalent pins on the tender's tether.  That wouldn't have tested anything new.  My theory was that this way I could rule out if the tender tether had a loose connection and thereby assume the problem was on the engine side. That was the theory anyway.  As the saying goes, a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing ...

 

TRRR

That's encouraging to hear, gunrunnerjohn. Thanks! That makes me feel better.  

 

Chuck, you are likely right.  It was hard to tell which wire was which with the tube wrap and the way they crossed and doubled back -- even with a magnifying glass and I didn't want to remove the wrap because I can't replace it. Thanks for your offer of assistance.  To keep logistics simple, I will drop by my local hobby shop tomorrow - it's on the way home from work and they do repairs. However, if help is still needed, I will keep your offer in mind.  By the way, your website link is generating a header error. The offending line is 896 in the script it's trying to run.

 

Thanks to you both for giving me hope that my engine may be running again someday. It will be interesting to learn what caused the original problem.

 

Best,

 

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Hi,

 

Here's an update. It's got some good news, some excellent customer service, and some bad news.  A while back, I took my Lionel 0-8-0 RTR to Charkes Ro.  One of the fellows peeled back the shrink wrap tubing around the tender wires and it was clear that there was a wire sticking out that had come loose or broken.  That was easily fixed.  The amazing folks at Charles Ro just quietly replaced the engine, which I thought went above and beyond customer service. So, believe me, I bought some cars while there and placed an advanced 2016 Lionel order through them as another show of my appreciation for their customer service.

 

So engine 421 and I had some happy months running until last week when it jumped the track at a tricky s-curve and switch connected to a cross (MTH track and MTH 50 transformer).  The transformer fuse tripped but failed to save the head light's led. Funny how a little feature or detail as simple as a head light can contribute so much to the RR experience. 

 

The manual says I have to take the engine to a qualified repair person to replace the bulb.  It looks to me like there's a groove under the headlight where you perhaps can pop out the light's plastic lens to replace the bulb.  Can anyone confirm that? Of course then I'd have to know the replacement number.

 

If I have learned any lesson, it's that I should just take the engine to Charles Ro for proper bulb replacement but is there any simple electrical component that I can ask for that can easily be added to the wiring to protect the new light bulb from the same fate?  I run this engine mostly on my MYH track and it does tend to derail here especially when hauling long passenger cars. The living room floor is too small to add some spacing track to separate the cross and switch frog or add length to the s-curve.

 

Thanks,

 

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Last edited by TomlinsonRunRR

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×