O-22 Switches...

A majority of the time the contacts in the switch motor are the issue.  Cleaning and adjusting the tension on those is top on the list.  Also, make sure the switch operates freely with no friction, it should be effortless to switch positions.  If not, check for lubrication and mechanical issues.  Do NOT lube the motor plunger!  The switches don't care about right or left.

Yep, I know that guy.  His treatment is very complete, but probably overkill for the task at hand.

WOW!  And I thought I was the expert on servicing O22 switches.  I still love the look of a mass of O22 switch lanterns all lit and the switch tracks all operating.

My complaint with 022 switches is that blasted huge motor, it makes it somewhat of a PITA to use them in cramped quarters.

Thanks to all of you for the information and outlined details....Joe, I will be busy with this list and give it a good college try to accomplish everything you touched on...Gunner, as always you provide sage advice...Dale, I will reduce the voltage and see what happens...

 

Again Guys, thank you very much...

 

Spaceghost...

I test my switches at 12V, if they work on that, then I actually run them on 16 volts for reliability.

When I was learning to repair these switches the goal was that the switch motor by itself should switch and lock on 10 volts and the complete switch assembeled should switch and lock on 12 volts.

 

Al

I refer to the complete switch.  I must admit, I test the motors at 12V as well, but I suspect since the whole switch works at 12V the motors probably work with less...

The "new" brass strip must just replace the length of the original strip.
I enclose a better picture of my damaged switch motor and a page from the Greenberg repair manual.
The brass strip I used has a thickness of 0.1 mm, so smoothing the transition up onto the new strip is no big deal.

Best regards

Göran

I've never seen a trench like that in an 022, must have been using 110VAC to switch that one!

Well,

 since we use 220 here that, 220 could have been the case, but I have learned english at school and can read the manual, and the Greenberg manual .

I operate the switches at 14 V from the CW80.

Regards

That contact strip looks like the inside of the LTI version of the switch...

 

Marty

The second post has some very detailed instructions on servicing switches, but I have to offer a different opinion on some of the advice.

IMHO, wet lubricants, including WD-40 are not a good idea on switches. As I have posted before, wet lubricants attract dust and dirt. Some oils get sticky over time.

If you want to use a lubricant, try something that goes on wet and dries. Just this last week, I used Neolube on some 022 switches I had on my bench. (While many use it as a blackening agent, it is a lubricant).

 

Rather than use WD-40 to clean the sliding contact area, I suggest using some mineral spirits on a Q-tip. I do not lubricate this area at all.

Normally, I also avoid bending the contacts unless they had previously been bent by a well meaning individual. (I find that too much tension will cause problems)

 

On some of the switch motors, I found that after this cleaning, there was still poor contact. I cut narrow strips of 400 grit emery paper, and slipped them face up between the contacts. Then I pulled them out while applying very gentle pressure to the tops of the arms, just above the contact points. This was followed by a wipedown with a clean qtip moistened with mineral spirits.  The idea was to only remove a tiny bit of material. The switch motors worked much better afterwards.

 

The switch bases didn't really look too dirty, but blowing them off with about 60 PSI did make a difference too.  (I also blew out the solenoids)

To get down to the serious aspects fo this,

 

when you read the Greenberg manual on how these switches work you see that the moving part of the switch needs to have contact via the stationary contact on the printed board to light the lamp im the controller, and this lamp just lets enough current pass through to light the lamp. When the movement of the controller level bypasses the lamp (shorts it out) enough current is passed to the coil operating the switch and the switch is thrown.

 

Now, if there is no contact between an eroded strip on the printed circut board nothing will happen.

 

So for me, the real question is how do I avoid sparking (if mechanical erosion is not the issue) in the switch motor?

 

What materials etc are preferred?

 

Best regards

 

Göarn

CW..

I agree on your thoughts on WD-40...A friend of mine who is a authorized factory repairman for Lionel recommends nose grease...just rub your finger against your nose and then apply to the part...
I am also going to try using Gardner Bender toggles to replace the PW toggles and add dual color LEDs to show when the main line is open and when it is diverted... 

 

I am glad to see this post has generated such responses and interest in these turnouts and switches...

 

jeff

First off, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, and should never be used for that purpose!  My experience with WD-40 is with antique guns that were "preserved" using WD-40, what a mess!  After a couple of years, it turns into a hard varnish that is like glue!  I've had to soak a couple of them in solvent for a week to release it enough to get them apart and clean them.

 

As far as using a real lubricant, one could say that they attract dust in any environment, so I'm not sure that's the overriding reason not to use them.  For me, I lube the slide and bail using a light machine oil, and I do NOT put any lube on the solenoid plunger.  I do clean it thoroughly, and if it's still not silky smooth, I'll also use a small brush to clean the solenoid coil.  I've reconditioned 70-80 of these, and I've had good luck with my methods.  Others are free to disagree with my methods.

We are all free to service our own property any way we please. 

 

I will freely admit that I may be overly conservative in my opinions on where wet lubricants should be used. Maybe its because I've spent plenty of time cleaning out grit, grime, and old lubricant from my share of mechanisms with sliding surfaces, such as milk cars and switch machines.

 

I think the question is not just how many pieces one has serviced. How many years those pieces been in service since they were reconditioned can be significant.