O gauge benchwork

Schnucks posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for o gauge Benchwork building. I have no problem building it myself. I'm looking for comments about 2x4 vs 1x4 for legs, bracing and table frame for plywood top.

I used nothing but 1"X 4" lumber for the legs, glued together in a "L" shape. Also, all 1"X 4" for framing, with 1"x 4" with 1"X 2" glued on top to form an "L girder".  I hate 2"X 4" since they are too heavy, and it is difficult to find nice straight ones anyway.  

Plywood thickness.

I used 3/4" thick roofing plywood, that way 3 to 5 adults can be up on top of the layout doing track laying or scenery, without any worries.

Do I need homosote if I'm using Flexxbed?

No. I glued the Flexxbed directly to the plywood, and then glued the Atlas track & turnouts on to the Flexxbed. I used NOTHING but TightBond Professionl Wood Glue, and then removed the screws fro almost everything, especially the track, so train operation is just about as quiet as possible.

I'm looking for a balance of strength and efficient. I can build it like a house floor, but that would be overkill.

Schnucks posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for o gauge Benchwork 2x4 vs 1x4 for legs

I frame with 1x4s and use 2x4s for the legs. I concur with the 3/4" for the tops....

I use 2x4 for legs & joists with 3/4 7 ply plywood.  Put together w/screws with everything on 4' centers.  No sags or movements & can walk or crawl anyplace.

Ken M

SCHNUCKS, I used 2x2s for the legs and 1x4s for the frame work.  I bolted the legs to the frame work with 3/8 hex head bolts.  I used 1/2" plywood (the cheapest I could find) screwed to the top of frame work and 1/2" homasote on top of the plywood.  I did NOT use any braceing (legs to frame work).  I built either 4' x 8' or 2' x 8' sections or specialized sections when odd size was needed.  Sections were bolted together with 2 3/8 hex head bolts.  Once all the sections are joined together the whole layout is pretty sturdy.  I have been on top for track work and have had NO movement of the platform.  Remember, you are only building a model RR layout not a house.  Some people like to kill it.  LOL  Not that there is anything wrong with that.  Each to his own.  Good luck and have fun.  Oh, one more thing, when building the frame work, I spaced my 1x4s on 16" centers.

Rick

I have always thought people overkill this. 2X4s and 3/4" ply! As if it's a house!

Just not needed IMO, UNLESS, you see a need to walk/crawl on top of it. With some layouts that may well be necessary. With an around-the-wall layout it is a far less likely requirement. I went with 1/4" ply, 2x2 legs, 1x3 stringers and am quite content. But I won't be crawling on it!

Gilly@N&W posted:

Schnucks posted:

Does anyone have suggestions for o gauge Benchwork 2x4 vs 1x4 for legs

I frame with 1x4s and use 2x4s for the legs. I concur with the 3/4" for the tops....

That's how I do it too, with 3/4" ply on top. And yes, I do climb and step on it from time to time, and I weigh 350+. Holds me no problem. Whether you need it that strong is up to you. Part of that decision is based on your design and how far you have to reach to get at everything.

Terry Danks posted:

I have always thought people overkill this. 2X4s and 3/4" ply! As if it's a house!

Just not needed IMO, UNLESS, you see a need to walk/crawl on top of it. With some layouts that may well be necessary. With an around-the-wall layout it is a far less likely requirement. I went with 1/4" ply, 2x2 legs, 1x3 stringers and am quite content. But I won't be crawling on it!

Just my opinion but,,,,,,I COMPLETELY DISAGREE with this philosophy!  All one needs to do is lean with too much weight on such construction, around the wall or not, and you will regret NOT using proper "L Girder" construction with 1"X 4" lumber and 3/4"plywood.

If you go to he wgh website (Worlds Greatest Hobby), they have a free video and printable instruction list to build a 4x8 modular table.  Although they cater to the HO crowd, I have built 2 of those tables and they are sturdy enough for any layout and light enough to be portable.  Look in the how to videos and I think it is covered in videos 3 and 4.

I used 2 x 2 legs,  1 x 4 frames ,1 x 2 leg braces, and 1/2" plywood tops but be sure you get at least 4-ply 1/2" plywood. A lot of stores sell 15/32" plywood as half inch and it is only 3 ply.  This is plenty strong enough if you are going to have several of them screwed together.

I get on top of mine all the time and it is strong enough.

Don't forget that there are layouts on ping-pong tables and just about every other material used to build tables, including the many portable tables out there. To be sure, there are plenty of advantages to the tried and true L-girder method using 1x4 lumber, but even that depends on the quality of the lumber and that can get expensive, especially if it's not necessary. Jim Barrett did an entire series in OGR Magazine on using 1x3, 2x2/2x3 and 1/2" plywood. Some people cut 3/4" plywood into 3" strips to get inexpensive 3/4x3 material. And then there's Mianne that uses 1x3's and I-beams. Like others have said, a lot depends on your layout. I have a modular grid system designed using plywood strips,  but I'm still debating between it and 2x4's. I used 2x4s with 1" foam for my Christmas layout and as long as I wasn't going to get up on it, it worked just fine. But even if you find straight 2x4's, chances are they will warp over time and may cause the roadbed to warp too.

On my 2nd table I used 1x3 whitewood because I had so much trouble ripping that 4x8 sheet of 1/2 birch plywood alone on my table saw.  In my opinion, the ripped plywood takes the  glue better than the soft white pine wood, although the glue and nail 1/2" L gurter legs are more than strong enough with all the cross braces in place.  I am thinking about building a 3rd table to fit my spare room with a 4x24 U shaped layout, or doing a 8x12x4 and use the 4 foot section for a yard.  I am still planning though.

Just do what I do. Build some sawhorses and slap a 4x8 on it. Works every time and there is no hassle. So simple a 3rd grader could do it.