O scale DC Power Packs

well, if you can find an MRC Commandmaster 10amp power system, it has discontinued but they will still show up on Ebay or trade meets.

Dick

For my build in a somewhat larger footprint we will be using three Dallee & eight MRC control Master 20.  Also I have an option to switch to DCS.   Each yard, each town, each junction and each branch line will have their own power supply. 

Consider R/C battery. 

the size of the layout is part of the issue, but the total amperage drawn at one time is the most important issue.    In other words, if you are running only one new (last decade build) loco on your 30x40ft layout, you probably only need about 2 amps or less.   If you are running 10 at one time, you probably need about 20 amps total.    And you also need to consider lighting and other stuff run off the tracks in your estimates.

Wiring is very important and with a layout such as 30x40 ft, you need substantial power runs.   I would say you need to use at least 14 gauge wire for your power suupply.    You can put in lighter weight drops, from the track to the buss, with 18 or 20 gauge, but the main run from the power should heavy to reduce voltage loss.

And for a very reliable running layout, put in lots and lots of drops from the rail to the buss.   Most gurus recommend having a power drop from EACH piece of rail to avoid and loss from rail joiners.   

the best DC power supply I have found is the GML 6 amp power supply.   this comes with a handheld throttle and memory.   You can unplug the throttle and move it to another location while the train keeps running.    there are options available for separage Brake functions.   I think the base version includes adjustable momemtum.     I think this Power supply is very good because it will not drop the voltage as the amperage increases.    I tested it with a meter and watched the behavior.    I set the throttle at 12 volts and slowly added load to the system.   the meter continued to display 12 volts until I caused the circuit breaker to go at 6 amps.    Most throttle circuitry will loose voltage as amperage increases.   They are rated at total voltamps (volts times amps) such as 24.    If you draw 2 amps on these you get 12 volts, but if you draw 3 amps, you only 8 volts and if you draw 4 amps, you only get 6 volts etc.     What ever throttle you choose, you should avoid this type of circuitry.

the GMLs can be seen at:  http://www.thegmlenterprises.com/index.html

Look for the 6 amp throttle under throttles with memory, model WA7-6.    this was made specifically for O Scale.

When I run pure DC locomotives, I use what CBQer recommends, but my version is called MRC Pure Power G:

My layout is 31 x 20 feet

These folks have one for sale:

http://www.activepowersports.c...Pyo74CFehQOgodlXgAaQ

If I was starting fresh in DC track power I would also go with the GML as Jim mentioned.  However I would bump up the buss/drop sizes to 12 & 18.

I just happened to have a stash of power packs. 

Never tried the MRC power G but it's stats look great.

Other setups I have used were powered by multiple MRC 6200 or MRC 9500 with the built in gauges.

IMO every circuit should be protected by a resettable breaker and be equipped with amp & volt readout so you can know what is happening.

Can;t argue with the buss/drop recommendations.   Heavier is generally better.

On my layout I dropped down at each rail, lots of extra work, probably overkill on my layout, but almost never a problem. Since my layout is sectional and has been up and down a few times, I occasionally have a broken wire and do notice the difference. This is one case where overkill is good in my opinion.

All the best,

Miketg

I'm using the MTH Z-4000 with a rectifier to make DC and toggle switch for direction control.  Works great.  AC on one side DC on the other side.

Rick

the PWM power pack from GLM is amazing.

I am using it for few years without a problem.

Andre.

My RR is a bit larger than Curtis' and I use #10 stranded bus and #18 stranded drops.  I also use the NCE Radio system.  I power every piece of rail so as to avoid problems in the future.

Cheers,

Ed

I'm a new member, and I wanted to comment that I am also very happy with a GML throttle I've been using for about five years. I wired the layout with 10-gauge buss and 18-gauge drops from each piece of rail. It was quite a lot of extra labor to add a separate feeder for each section of rail (even very short sections) but the result is very dependable power on the track, with no voltage drop around the entire system and no dead spots ever.

I am another satisfied GML user.

I do have a question for those who used a much heavier gage wire for a buss and lighter wire for the feeders, such as the 10 / 18 combination.   Did you use noninsulated buss wires ?  How did you tie the drops to the buss ?   I ask because that was the biggest problem I had in wiring as I recall.

Best regards, SZ

another vote for the MRC control master 20. it also offers memory and momemtum as well as braking. in addition it has two voltage range settings.

B Smith, thank you for your detailed reply.

My biggest concern was stripping the insulation at intermediate locations without cutting or pulling apart the individual wire strands, which would defeat the purpose of using the larger ga wire -- however, that may have resulted from my tools, technique, or both.  I changed over to Scotchlok connectors for the tie-in points, but here the problem is that they don't make a connector sized for a 10 plus a smaller than 12 ga wire [ that I'm aware of ].  So I tapped in at less locations and used larger feeders to the tie in points -- but each additional connection increases the path loss.

Eventually I just ran separate 10 [ or 12 if shorter ] runs to each nodal point.  Since I use conventional DC control the block wiring was run that way, so there wasn't much incremental labor for the common rail returns.

With best rgds, SZ

A good-quality wire stripper will cut only the insulating jacket, in my experience. After slitting the jacket lengthwise between cuts with an X-acto knife, you can peel off the little section of insulation and expose the 10-gage wire (I used stranded wire). 

I like this:

IMO every circuit should be protected by a resettable breaker and be equipped with amp & volt readout so you can know what is happening.

I use breakers on both ends, a Variac, a step-down transformer,  a Radio Shack bridge rectifier, a giant capacitor, two meters, and a bunch of WWII aircraft switches.  it can pull way more than the five amps the breaker will allow.  

Bob2, I guess you are aware of the Flame brand of aircraft resettables I use.

Micro Mart sells brown suitcase for large buss, small drops.

Thank you, that's excellent information -- too late for me, but hopefully others can use them.    I see Grainger also carry them, and in both cases they are 3M, not poor imitations.

Best, SZ

I have a Bridgewerks 10 amp DC power pack that is self contained and heavy duty.  Plug it in wire it up and go.  Really enjoy it for my non-DCC (DC) engines before I upgrade them to DCC.

I also have a GML Enterprises 6 amp DC throttle with momentum and memory.  Takes an ac input from the ac transformer of your choice.  I power it with a 10 amp ac transformer from Tony's Train Exchange.  Makes a nice throttle/power transformer combo if properly fused since the 10 amp transformer is capable of delivering more than the 6 amp throttle can handle. 

Bottom line is the Bridgewerks is an impressive hunk of technology,is ready to go and is priced accordingly.  And you can add a optional add-or wireless throttle for the it an additional outlay if you like.        

I like the unit myself for O scale[picked mine up used off ebay a few years back] does anyone know of a source for a longer coil cord for the handheld throttle, it is not a standard 4 wire phone cable it appears to be either a crossover or rollover cable.

I use the MRC Control 20's and have had no problems. My max amperage draw is around 2.5 amps. the Bridgewerks two track throttle (vs power supply) with 10 amps per track is tempting, and would give me some overhead for doubleheading MTH steam engines at 18 volts and using smoke, etc. I have some two rail USH and Westside engines and the use of a DC power source would eliminate any chance of an error vs. if I used an AC power supply as input to the MTH DCS system. (The TIU of the MTH DCS system can use either AC or DC.) The USH and Westside engines definitely do not like AC.....

The only turnoff with a Bridgewerks is the price.....